heavy85

Stealth is right, conversion is roughly just take the penny decimal places out to get from $ to yen. So $1.00 = 100 yen (plus or minus but close enough) Cameron

Damn - that's a lot more than I sold it for a couple years ago ...

Uh what am I missing. Ad says "This 240Z features a recent cosmetic restoration and is ready for your driving enjoyment." That's a fair statement. I dont see where anything has been mis-stated. I could find no mention of Museum quality best in the world ..... never find a better more original .... Cameron

Jon, I would really be interested in your installed vs bench stiffness to understand how your mounts (which in my opinion will stiffen the bar since they are limiting the twist in the bar) affect the bar's spring rate if at all. Cameron

Just wait until you drive it ... you wont be disappointed. Cameron

Dont worry I dont want it back ....

That looks like something I sold on e-bay a couple years ago ... probably is the exact same. Can't remember how much I got for it maybe a buck fitty or so. Cameron

Anyone? Can't calibrate the G-tech ... or know when to shift ... until I fix this stupid thing. I'm hooked to the white wire ('02) and I get nothing. I realize it's a frequency but so should read average voltage (~9V from what I've read) but I get nothing. Anyone know if there is some type of fuse or something maybe I dont have hooked up that runs the Tach out ... kind of like the back-up light +12V that you have to feed the PCM? Thanks Cameron

Why dont you seal the cowl to the air filter so you can take advantage of the ram air? Cameron

Mine is old so there are no switched there are wires you cut. One is orange the other brown. You cut both for 4 cyl and mine are both cut so yes it's set-up right. Thanks Cameron

I hooked up the white 'tach' wire from the PCM to the Autometer. Tach was working fine with the L6. Cut both wires on the back of the tach to make it 4 cylinder. I get nothing - no needle movement at all. From LS1tech forum I tee'd a 480 ohm pull-up resistor (from 12v source ... actually tee'd into the tach power wire) into the signal wire and still nothing. No movement at all. I know it's getting power and ground as the gauge light comes on and the power & light wires are spliced together. Also verified there is continuity from the gauge green signal wire to the white PCM wire. Any suggestions or ways to diagnose? Thanks Cameron

It's fixed but ... not sure why? I hot wired it today and hooked a volt meter up to the PCM out to the fuel pump. Steady 14.5V for a ~15 minute drive. Hooked up the PCM to the fuel pump and she ran fine for until I shut it off. All I did was look at the wiring to make sure it was there and correct and pulled, tested, and re-installed the fuel pump relay. Scares me 'cause it's bound to happen again since I didn't really fix anything. I'm afraid ... I'm going to keep the jumper hot wire in the car for a while just in case. Man it takes off like a rocket if you can find traction. Tops out fourth gear before you blink. I might have to go down to the 3.7 or 3.5 gears from the 3.9 that's in there now. Can't wait for the first test and tune (autox) April 6 to really see what she has. Cameron

Clive hit it on the head. I drove my LS swap for the first time last weekend. It is comical really. I couldn't stop chuckling. Second gear I can light em up at will from any RPM. Still can't wipe the smile off my face. Took nearly a year and a half but that's because I built everything myself and did a lot of other work like a new subframe and have four kids and a demanding job. Cost (best I can remember so it's close): Wrecked '02 Z28 $6500 Sold ~$2000 maybe more before I'm done Headers $460 Exhaust $250 K&N $35 Intake rubber elbow ~$25 Water lines, fittings, etc $100 Fuel lines $200 Driveshaft $160 Diff flange adapter $65 Poly mounts ~$100 Serpentine & extra pulley ~$40 Battery & alt wiring ~$50 PCM flash $75 Clutch lines $150 (dont ask ...) Misc crap that adds up $200 So about $6,400. If you were better at parting out like Clive you could significantly reduce the upfront engine cost. Otherwise I dont see how you could do it for any less. I reused as much of the f-body stuff as possible (throttle cable, dipstick, fuel tank, wiring, etc) and did all the work myself including building the mounts, fabbing the exhaust, etc. I also am still using the stock radiator so we'll see how that holds up and have no speedo or fuel gauge yet so this is basic drivable with no frills ... other than the loud pedal!!! Cameron PS: I started swap Nov '06. Target was driving May '07. Actual driving March '08.

Well I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and scanner today. No codes which is odd because I was expecting fuel tank pressure sensor code at least. Fuel pressure ~60 PSI. Played with it a little and it seems to be fairly consistent that when I rev the engine as it comes back down to idle the fuel pressure starts to drop and eventually levels off to less than 20 PSI at which time it sputters to a stop. I did not try to idle for a long time to see if it would have stayed running if I didn't rev it. I'm stumped. Anyway I hot wired the fuel pump and took it for a spin for the FIRST time EVER with the LS installed. You still cannot wipe the smile off my face . First and second I can leave two stripes at will. Third I can leave stripes without a lot of effort. I did not push it 4-6 as it was the first outing. I've never owned let alone driven a truly fast car before (other than FSAE) so this thing is just insane ... comical really ... makes me chuckle. I'm sure at some point I'll get used to the power but man this rocks. Also on a positive note there were no unusual noises, no rattles, nothing broke, no vibrations, and nothing on fire. Could not have asked for more out of the first drive. Cameron PS to Here Come Trouble - it's worth a second job to pay the gas to drive an LS Z

I used the Z28 dipstick. It does not fit with the JTR headers without bending it around between two tubes and cutting off & reorienting the mounting tab. It was a real pain and took a while of trial and error bending the tube around to finally get it to fit. I would start by cutting off the mounting tab and just start bending it around until it fits then rebend the mounting flange until it touches the tube and reweld it back on. If you have more money than time I would just get a Lokar. Cameron

Perfectly ... at least it idles and revs good. Have not tried to drive it yet so I can't say what it does under load other than it acted fine when I pulled it in the garage. I'm borrowing a scanner and fuel pressure gauge from a guy at work so I'll hook that up this weekend and see where I'm at. Thanks Cameron

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately it's definitely less than 409 seconds. Is there anything else that will trigger shutdown? Vin - I'm still not convinced it's not oil pressure as it starts up just fine it just shuts down after a few minutes ... like after it would reach some sort of 'shutdown timer'. Got the OBD port installed tonight so will borrow a scanner hopefully in the next few days and see what code I'm triggering. Thanks Cameron

Need to get a fuel pressure gauge but it doesn't run rough like it's on 4 cylinders it just all of a sudden sputters to a stop like you turned off the fuel pump. If it was crud in the fuel system how would hot wiring the fuel pump fix the problem? I know some engines cut fuel if the oil pressure switch sees low pressure as a fail safe like in a roll-over but does the LS look at oil pressure for this reason? Anyone know where the oil pressure switch is located so I can check the wiring? It's a T56. Also need to hook-up the OBDII port so I can check the codes ... maybe after the kids are in bed tonight. Thanks Cameron

Pretty much echo what's said above. ME will open up a lot of opportunities and higher wages ... right or wrong but that's life. School I went (Georgia Tech) to did not even have the MET I dont believe but corporate America pretty much lists ME/EE/etc as even a starting point for interviews. Go to a career fair and see what they are looking for. Talk to a school career counselor as they should know average starting salaries by major, hiring companies, etc for for school. After your first job I dont think the school matters but your school choice may help get in the door for your first job. Cameron

Does the oil pressure switch shut fuel off if it does not trip? I know I have oil pressure from the gauge and idiot light. Where is the switch on the block ... I'll have to check the wiring and probe the switch to see if it changes state when the engine starts up. If there any other PCM inputs that would cut fuel if they are not hooked up? Thanks Cameron

I have a Z driveshaft that uses a CV at the front end. Dont know where it came from but it fit my 240 with a R200 and 5 speed all in the stock locations. Actually now that you reminded me I am not using it anymore so if anyone's interested it's for sale. Cameron

Well as it says there was a slight break in the weather today so last night I took it off the jackstands and today was the day. To date I've only started it in the garage a couple times for less than a minute each time. So I rolled it out of the garage & it started up just fine. Wanted to get it up to temperature before taking a drive so let it idle and after a minute or two it died. Sigh. Thought it might be too low on gas since I only had a little to put in so I dump whatever I had maybe 1/2 gallon out of the mower gas jug in it. Started right up and again ran for a minute or two then shut off. Feels like it's running out of fuel - kind of sputters for a few seconds then finally dies. So took a trip to the gas station to fill up the jug then added maybe another 2-3 gallons of gas. Again started right up then died after a minute or two. Tried immediately and it would not restart. Hot wired the fuel pump and it started and I pulled it into the garage - at least the clutch pedal seems to work good . Several hours later rolled it back out and again hot wired the fuel pump. Started right up and ran until I shut it off, maybe 10 minutes or so. Let it get up to temperature and everything was fine. (BTW where on the stock temp gauge does the stock f-body fans turn on?) So what would be telling the fuel pumps to shut off? I had VATS programmed out and that shuts off after just a few seconds anyway. I'm stumped so any ideas what could be cutting fuel? I'm tempted to test drive tomorrow with the hot wired fuel pump since it's suppose to be nice again but really want to figure this out before I do any significant driving. Thanks Cameron

I'm talking the roadrace one ... like in the Jeg's add you posted. So would something like that require detachable wheel? Thanks Cameron

I'm really leaning heavy towards the Kirkey Intermediate. Do you need a detachable wheel though to get in and out? Cameron

Thanks guys that helps a lot. The aluminum ones look more comfy like Cary says I would just need to add a back brace down to the SFC or something since I dont have a rollbar to tie it to but that shouldn't be too hard. I was kind of stuck on the FIA thing but it seems that's maybe not as important as I thought. Also like the small profile to maximize leg and headroom. Cary - any Kirkey size recommendation for 6"2" w/ 36" waist and what specific model are you running? Also, do they require a detachable steering wheel to get in and out of? Unfortunately even with the 60-80 cars we get per autox most of the it is stock or modded street cars. Only thing I've been able to tryout was a ricer Sparco that was terrible and we have NO race shops nearby so will have to go by others experience. Thanks Cameron