heavy85

Thanks guys - keep the ideas coming as I'm still trying to make up my mind. I would prefer driver accessible but we'll see - the last one looks too easy to pass up ... Cameron

It's obvious with the transmission out but is there some magic way to cut / extend / route through tunnel with the transmission still installed? Seems like there is not enough room and I dont want to have to pull the massive T56 just to install a bias valve. So does anyone have tips how to install a bias valve without pulling the transmission? Thanks Cameron

So what are you trying to fix exactly? Seems you have two issues. First is starvation then if it does starve it's hard to start. First is a function of where the pick-up is located and lack of baffling allowing the pump to suck air. Carbs with floats can handle this but fuel injection there is no accumulator to store some fuel until it sucks fuel again (except old VW's did have a fuel accumulator but...). All the lines changes in the world are not going to help this. Second is most likely a routing issue. Fix the first and you dont have to worry about the second. I'm running a stock '02 Camaro tank with the in-tank pump and regulator. It's probably the cheapest way out and I've not had problems in autox, drag, track days. Cameron

The sharp cut you have right at the inlet to the turbo disturbs the flow. Turbo manufacturers have told us that they want nice even flow velocity going into the turbo. Target is something like a 1/2 a meter of straight length to develop uniform flow but since that's usually not feasible we have to rely on CFD (computer simulation) to find a good compromise ... or borrow from NASA Try with and without and see if you see any difference. If you dont see any difference the only thing may be a degradation in turbo life - cant hurt to test and see what you find. Internet search and you will find stuff on diesels using flow straighteners and claims of performance. Cameron

Turbo's I'm used to that would be a big no no. You want nice even developed flow if at all possible. The sharp miter would disturb flow and may hurt turbo performance and / or life. Something to at least consider. Cameron

I've got two 'comp' 5 speeds taking up space in my garage. When I bought the car one was listed as '$1500 competition transmission' and the other I picked up locally. These are both overdrive with std shift pattern but with the steel synchros so they are not the more desirable dogleg shift pattern non-overdrive. One's in decent shape the other needs at least two synchros replaced. Any idea what these would be worth and where would be the best place to try to sell them? Thanks Cameron

I guess that means I'll need 1.75x0.095. Never thought of the rollbar vs rollcage but it makes sense that a bar would need thicker tubing than a cage would. Glad I didn't buy the tubing or bender yet .... Cameron

OK so doing some more research and found where I got the original data. The 2008 SCCA solo rules say: a) Over 1500 lbs.-min. of 1-1/” 2 o.d. x .120" wall or 1-3/4" o.d. x .095" wall Over 1000 lbs.-min. of 1-1/4" o.d. x .090" wall c) Under 1000 lbs.-min. of 1" o.d. x .060" wall I wonder if the solo rules are now superseded by the GCR?? I'm confused. Cameron

Found him - you can get his # at http://www.outlawbrakes.com/suspension.html I told him the links were broken to contact info. Anyway just talked to them and they are still making brakes. I'm thinking about ordering some over the winter but they are MORE than the Wilwood options so I'll have to ponder this more. Cameron

*What Brand/Style gauge set(s) do yall LS1 swap guys recommend (IE: Speedo, Tach, Oil pressure, Water temp, Voltage)..That will fit in the Stock dash holes. So far I have Autometer tach and stock Datsun gauges for the rest but no speedo *What fuel pump is popular, if I want to use the stock mounting location and stock tank? I used the '02 Camaro tank with the in-tank pump and regulator. *Is the stock body/chassis strong enough to hold a 380rwhp N/A car with an automatic and 4k stall converter? (The car has two small moon roofs). I autocross, roadrace, drag race, and drive on crappy Illinois roads with mine with ~350 crank HP without a rollbar but with subframe connectors. *Is anyone using the Stock radiator? I'm using the stock 240Z radiator. Does great. Cameron

Pick your goal. If you want the ultimate it will take more time and $$$ - lightweight tranny (T56 is HUGE), destroked ls (aluminum block, less displacement for lower allowed weight), etc, etc. If you want to drive your car this decade I suggest getting a complete Camaro LS1/T56 and get your car to the track already. You could always upgrade later as a winter project and sell-off the T56 as you would already have the basics in place (engine mounts, fuel system, electrical, etc). I used everything from my wrecked Camaro from the harness and fuse blocks to the dipstick, throttle cable, and fuel tank and it made things a lot easier and cheaper to get it installed and running. I never even split the engine and trans as it only had 40k miles. Just my 2 cents from having experienced over a year without racing when my car was in for conversion and knowing that sucks. If you want a national racer you may have to get real picky, interpret the rules REAL carefully, and spend the $$$. Cameron

You got screwed. Cameron

I've been using a basic Longacre probe one this year. I find it difficult to figure out. First the probe end is not attached to the handle so it falls out ... need to glue it in. More than that though is to judge when to take the reading. The temp spikes then settles back down maybe 10 degrees after a second or two. I'm not sure why it would do this but it does. Do you try to catch the peak or take the stabilized reading? Cameron

Sorry to get off topic but do you have any details of that trailer hitch? On topic - holy John Force burnout batman!!! Thanks Cameron

PM sent Cameron

I think you would tear up the hatch first but in my opinion the weak link is the connection from the wing to the mounts. The wing itself is very sturdy but it uses nutserts for the mounts to screw into the wing. I think this is the weak link. Cameron

Look again Jon it actually says: Average Track Speed: Less than 120mph (193kph) So that said to me it is designed for AVERAGE speeds not that it could not handle going faster than that. For the tracks I will most likely run at this should be adequate because they are < 130 MPH. Edit: This was a bit of an impulse buy since the price was so good. Therefore I did not do the homework I would have normally done to say definitively. Cameron

Well I dont have the gigantic slicks but I do run the softest compound 9.5" wide slicks. I'm running 225/250 with a little bigger front bar but similar rear. I do not have any hopping issues like in the video. My biggest limiting factor is my driving ability not the car. I'm convinced you can be damn fast ... at least locally ... with this set-up. Of course I also have chassis stiffeners welded in, 'bumpsteer' spacers, cut bumps stops, relocated LCA, it's gutted so fairly light weight, sectioned struts, clutch LSD, etc so in reality I'm similar but possibly quite a bit away in detail from your set-up. It seems your problem is the mid corner bounce and the corner exit traction is just a result. My speculation is your bouncing off the bump stops. If you go with slicks they suck when it's cold and your better off with R-compound. They are nice when it's hot though. Other thing is I've had really bad tire wear with the radial slicks but very good luck with the bias plies. I think I need more spring to make the radials live but since I drive my to and front the track I can't really go where I probably need to so I'm going back to bias plies if I can still get them. I've got 5.7 liters worth of V8 power so I have to ginger the throttle or it pitches sideways. That's just something you need to learn to manage. With this set-up my only real issue other than traction is mid corner push which I think I need more front spring to help because I think I'm loosing too much camber in bump. Next year I'm going to try upping the front to 300 lb. Hope this rambling helped. Cameron

If your looking to sell off your old 240sx set-up I'm in the market. Thanks Cameron

I must have been looking at an old copy plus I had 1.625 instead of 1.5 stuck in my head. NASA looks to have somewhat recently changed as well: 1501 - 2500 lbs. (was 2200) 1.500” x 0.095” Chrome-moly / Seamless mild steel (DOM) 1.500” x 0.120” ERW* (No issuance of log books for cars with ERW cages 04/30/03) 2501 (was 2201) - 3000 lbs. 1.500” x 0.120” Chrome-moly / Seamless mild steel (DOM) 1.750” x 0.095” Chrome-moly / Seamless mild steel (DOM) 1.750” x 0.120” ERW* (No issuance of log books for cars with ERW cages 04/30/03) Looks like I will be going with 1.50x0.095" Thanks Cameron

Anyone have good experience with this ebay tube bender? http://cgi.ebay.com/1-1-2-Tubing-Bender-Tube-Bender-Race-Car-SandRail-Baja_W0QQitemZ230307543318QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Pipe_Benders?hash=item230307543318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Seems very similar to the Speedway one that Jon used with success but $100 less expensive. Thanks Cameron

Looking at SCCA / NASA rules and the rollbar can either be 1.625x0.120 or 1.75x0.095. Since the 1.75 tubing is lighter and more stiff I dont see any reason to go with the smaller 1.625 tube. Before I start ordering stuff is there anything I'm missing why you would want to use the smaller tube? Thanks Cameron

Ended up being able to squeeze the intake underneath the fresh air vent so the air filter is in front of the radiator support like this: Now I wonder if I'll notice any difference?? Cameron