heavy85

It's this: http://www.aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=55&Itemid=44 Look at the far end up against the side plates. The top is flat then at the back turns up sharply similar to a gurney flap. Or better yet here it is: Cameron

Uhhh this is an airfoil not a spoiler ... you dont just spin it around the other way ... Anyway I made some new brackets so the top is now about flat to the world at the lowest setting. Unfortunately it'll have to wait for next year to see if it does any good. I doubt I'll tell the difference at the autox this weekend. Cameron

$1.75 Central Illinois - was over $4.00 a couple months ago!!

Really dont like the stance and the back end is just a big bubble. I dont get it but will have to see in person to really tell. Edit: The flat black spy photos are much more flattering but the "German" silver car is just ugly IMHO. Cameron

That's a good idea - the cowl thing. Not sure if my intake is symmetric or not? It's a stock LS1 and I just tried to search at LS1Tech but their search engine is all but useless. As you said it may also just be as easy to somehow duct to the core support. Will have to ponder this some more. Thanks Cameron

Sorry to bust your bubble guys but but I'm not a total idiot. The wing is mounted correctly. I guess I'll plan on making some extensions but still wonder about the wind tunnel wing as I dont see any extra adjustment or spacers used there and the wing was quite effective. Cameron

I would like to bring fresh air to my air filter and am thinking about using a NACA duct about here. I would obviously build a box around the air filter to seal it to the hood and cut a hole in the hood to attach the duct to about here. So does anyone know if this is a good high pressure area to force feed the engine with? PS - I dont want to just put a larger hole through the core support and put the air filter in front of the radiator because I still use the fresh air vents. The cabin is hot enough and they bring in a lot of fresh air so I am not going to get rid of them for the sake of routing the intake to the front. Thanks Cameron

After a couple track events I realized that over 100 MPH the rear end is not as planted as I would like. So I was going to add a simple sheetmetal spoiler but then came across this for cheap and couldn't pass it up. I was looking for an ARP after seeing that's what the fast guys were using. The really nice ones are CF and are about $685. This aluminum one is normally $285 but I got it off ebay new for $90 which is about what a sheet of aluminum would have cost anyway. Now I'm rambling so to get to the point I'm a little confused how the wing should be angled. Currently it's at the highest angle and the front edge is still higher that the rear edge. This has me wondering if the angle of attack is relative to the world or relative to the slope of the roofline? This basic set-up looks similar to the wind tunnel wing and I cant see any spacers from the picture although that was a bi-wing and mine is a single plane. I have yet to test this and want to be prepared for the next track day if I need to make and bring some spacers. Thanks Cameron

Doesn't mean it's right but I have not experienced any problems grounding to the frame. I use one of the old seatbelt retractor bolts. Make sure you ground the engine to frame either way. Cameron

Ditto with what I've done. I drive 1-3.5 hours to track/autocross/dragstrip regularly (6-8 autoxs, 2 track days, & one dragstrip this year) with the car packed full of slicks on 15x10" rims with tools, jack, etc. Granted you can't take someone with you and it's not the most comfy but it works - especially for only two or three events per year. You can even get a small tent and sleeping bag in there if you stuff hard enough. You can also be VERY fast with a streetable car. Only other real drawback is you tend to only drive within your limits to make sure you can make it home. This may actually not be bad but probably costs a second or two at the track. Good luck but whatever you do dont let a lack of tow vehicle prevent you from getting out on track! Cameron

It was a lapped car that passed Hamilton that got him off the line and allowed Vettel to pass. What was that about anyway?? Vettel was on intermediates like everyone else. Very dramatic finish to say the least. Did you see Hamilton couldn't get his steering wheel re-attached? He eventully got it but per regulations the steering wheel has to be installed - I can see the FIA docking points or something stupid .... Remember last year when Hamilton had a commanding lead with two races to go then went off into the gravel entering the pits then had car problems the last race and lost by a point. Cameron

I haven't found a need for a heater and I live in Illinois where it gets reasonably cold .... but then agian it's parked for the winter due to salt on the roads. Worst time was a 5 AM 2 1/2 hour drive to a track day when it was in the 50's. Keep the windows up, vents closed, and wear a jacket and it's not too bad. Cameron

Please let us know what you find as I'm interested in understanding the Outlaw vs Wilwood options. Thanks Cameron

My LS1 '72 240Z is just over 2300 lb in race trim. It's gutted (I mean stripped dash, one racing seat, & door panels & that's it - no carpet even), stock brakes, SFC but NO rollbar (yet), plastic Camaro tank (spare tire well removed to get there), stock bumpers which weight next to nothing, R200, aluminum driveshaft, aluminum race seat, etc. The T56 is one of the big problems as it's HUGE. I wonder how the 700 compares in weight? With a smaller trans, aluminum radiator, CF/FG hood you might get into the 2100's lb range. Of course then there's the roll-bar to add in ... Anyway you wont be disappointed with the performance at whatever weight you get to. If you are making custom mounts as I did then mount it offset to the right and as far back as you can. I now wish mine was further back as it's just a bit nose heavy. Cameron

I've been wondering the same thing. The contact links are dead on his website so you can't send him an e-mail. I would really like to discuss getting one of his brake kits but he seems to have disappeared. Cameron

I'm doing some research into my brake upgrade and am struggling to get accurate measurements of the front strut/hub/etc. I am looking for the radius from axle centerline to the calipers mounting holes. Best I can measure they are std 3.5" spacing? Also the distance from the caliper mounting ears to the rotor mounting surface on the hub for both the 240 hubs and the 280 hubs. I only have 240 hubs and I know they are different so may open up different possibilities if I knew the measurements. So anyone have these dimensions handy? Thanks Cameron

I have auto-x'ed for several years. My car is relatively fast but is on par with fast drivers in stock corvettes or average street prepared cars or even well prepared civics with a very good driver. Usually within a second or two of FTD. This year I have run two high speed autox's which are basically just like normal autox but on a rear racetrack. I quickly realized that horsepower is key on a big track. The low powered cars that would be close to me in a normal autocross are WAAAAYYYY back on a full track. I mean WAAAYYY back - like 5-10 seconds. JohnC would probably disagree but this has been my limited experience. One particular car set new lap record and wiped up on the field. It was as Lotus 7 with a LS3 - 1600 lb and 480 hp. For reference I drive to the track and change tires and are way under springed and under prepared and my first day on a track ever I was within one second of ITS lap record and I was going from a standing start vs a flying start!!! Cameron

I pulled a 2.1 60' managing wheel spin through first and second on about 15 year old 225/65/15 Dunlap street tires leaving from idle. I'm surprised real tires dont do a lot better than that. Cameron

Sounds EXACTLY like what I'm seeing - wear on only the outer 1" or so. Maybe I need to jack up the air pressure like 10 lbs or more. One of these days I may have to take the plunge and go up in springrates. Since I drive between 1 and 3.5 hours each way to races on crappy roads I've been very leary going higher. Wonder how much difference it'll really make though in ride? Maybe I'll just go back to the bias plies if I can still get them (doubt it). 'Cool down' lap is actually hot other wise you get run over by the next car on their hot lap. Cameron