heavy85

Problem is it comes straight out, perpendicular like, not at an angle. I think it would look better cut at an angle but then the back side sticks out further than the front. If it was coming out at an angle I would definitely just cut it along the body line to get that slash look. Thanks Cameron

And here's the mount if anyone's interested Cameron

Well any recommendations on how should I cut it off? This is one of two 2.5" 'side pipes' to support the LS1. It's gonna be so loud ... Thanks Cameron

http://jbracingtires.net/index.htm I got a set of Hoosiers for $75 per tire. These were 15" x 9.5" x I think 23.5 but can't remember and am too lazy to go look. They were used once in practice at the run-offs and had 100% tread left. I'm not kidding as they were coated in a thick layer of rubber. Once scraped off the molding marks were still there. I could not have been happier with them. Cameron

I personally would buy the struts first and measure before you weld them together. My '72 struts are SO tight that I had to grind the paint and the raised stamped part number off the strut and grind the inside of the strut housing. This was just to get them installed even before sectioning so my point is you have to be REAL straight when you weld them back together or you'll be fighting to get them in. I installed a strut to align the pieces then clamped two pieces of angle iron around the housing. Pulled the strut out, tacked, reinserted strut, make any adjustments. It's just such a tight fit you have to be real precise. I know the later struts are bigger but I dont know if the '74 (assuming from your screen name) uses the smaller or bigger tubes. I ended up taking ~2" out of both the front and the rear. Then measured the length of the required spacer and cut to fit. Cameron

I did this over the last 6 months but I started with a cut-up Z harness (35 years of hacks does that) plus an f-body engine harness. I ended up using the f-body harness and fuse block for the engine power / starter relay / ignition relay. Seems you already have a complete stand-alone harness for the LS. How many other circuits depends on how you wire it really. For example will all the gauges be on one circuit? Power to the low power side of relays on one circuit? Power to starter relay? Power to ignition relay? Power to fan relay? Reduntant left and right separate headlight relays? Etc. T56 back-up switch requires power into the ECM for it to work. F-body fuel tank (if your using it) requires power to the pressure sensor which is used for the evap system. In addition to the engine fuse/relay block I have a generic 10 fuse block, a fan relay, and two headlight relays. That's it and I'm out of fuses and need more for the wideband, additional gauges, fuel tank pressure sensor, etc. I've tried to avoid splicing a bunch of stuff together so the fuses get used up real fast. Need to decide what you will be splicing together to really say. I also have the most stripped down possible configuration with no horn (shh dont tell anyone), no wipers, no heater or blower just basics to make it marginably streetable (lights, brakes, flasher, turn signals, gauges, power outlet for G-tech). If I had to do it again I think I would have just gone with a Painless or equivalent or at least used some type of either screw terminal fuseblock (if they exist) or a terminal strip to be able to easily splice multiple circuits together. I dont really like twisting several wires together, solder, wrap and would rather use terminals only so I can easily see the connections and are not buried in a harness somewhere. Cameron

So I have to ask why dont you just use the simple $50 switch from Pegasus in your #3 post? All this remote solenoids and extra relays and stuff just seems to add unneccessary complexity and potential unreliability. Cameron

Congrats on the kid. My four grow faster than I can keep up. My three year olds favorite tool is the cordless impact ... the 9.6V obviously ... he will have to wait a few months for the 18V. Get him a pair of earmuffs so he can be in the garage when you are using loud tools and to use at the racetrack. Sorry no help on the nursery. Our kids slept with us the first year (or three). Makes night time easy for daddy as you're about useless anyway while their nursing.

One of those is not like the others ... and belongs to someone in this site ... Cameron

"They decided to slow car down to 15mph. This plan was successful -- the driveshaft hit the hole square-on and popped the car up about 1-2 feet, driving the driveshaft up through the trunk. It wasn't particularly dramatic, and not nearly enough to qualify as "pole vaulting." OK so maybe it wont 'launch' you but your day would still suck. Cameron

Right I knew that if I just thought about it. Brazing required a LOT higher heat ... like oxy/aceteline in my experience ... than solder. Anyway I soldered it back on so we'll see how it holds up. Thanks Cameron

Thanks for the info. On the donor '02 Z28 the alternator went unfused to the battery which is what I'm planning. The ECU is fused, I'm not using the combo switch (no wipers and headlights are on a fused toggle switch/relay), and I'm also not using the ignition switch (ignition is on a fused toggle switch/relay). So I'm still thinking there is no need for one anywhere. Again the only thing not fused is the alternator output which was not fused on the Camaro either and the very short wire from the distribution stud to the fuse block. I think I'm covered but would be interested if anyone thinks I'm missing something. Thanks Cameron

Anyone else?

Kind of depends on your set-up as well. The rules above say near the front probably because if the car is rolling the driveshaft is spinning. If you lose the rear u-joint you can simple put it in neutral and it will stop spinning. Also depends on how it's joined. For example my old Datsun comp 5-speed used a bolt-on driveshaft at either end where the T56 used a slip in front. On the datsun tranny your screwed either way but for the T56 if you lose the back end the driveshaft will simply fall out. If you lose the front it will flail everywhere and if your luck hit the ground and launch you. In this situation you definitely want it near the front and I would consider making it large enough so that the driveshaft could slip out if the rear u-joint failed. That's just my initial thoughts as I have yet to install one. More discussion is welcomed as I'm about to this point in my build. Cameron

The mounting bracket has separated from the tank on my radiator on one corner. It looks like it's just brazed on so can I just braze it back on just like I would copper water pipes? Thanks Cameron

It seems everyone puts the master disconnect in the + cable. I'm used to off-highway equipment that puts the disconnect in the ground cable. Unless I am missing something the negative side would be the best place to put the disconnect. For example (and this has happened to me) a common thing on Z's is for the battery + to short out on the frame. Having a disconnect in the batt + cable would do nothing to stop the short. Breaking the ground would stop the short. Having the disconnect in the ground requires a double failure to still have a problem if you tried to use it. Are there rules or something driving everyone to put them in the + cable? I checked the NASA rules but it did not specify. Thanks Cameron

Looks like you've been productive over the holidays! If I see that right the intake is rubbing the strut bar? If so it's probably going to at least rattle - I would fix it. Is your strut bar higher on the drivers side or is it just the pics? Cameron

Yeah - open headers in the garage. What a nice feeling ... Burnouts will have to wait for it to get off the jackstands. Should not be too long.

Happy dance time Started on the first try. The light at the end of the tunnel just got real bright so either I'm nearly dead or I'll be driving by spring and will make the first test and tune! Cameron

OK I rewired my car and am scratching my head where fusible links go? Everything is fused already? You can't fuse the starter wire. The alternator wire (at least on the '02 donor Z28) goes straight to the battery. This leaves the one wire that goes from the battery to the fuse block? The Camaro harness has some fusible links in them as well as the large 'Maxifuses'. I'm only using the Maxifuses but am concerned I need the fusible links somewhere. Searching just confused me more so can someone please explain exactly which wire we're trying to protect - I assume it's the one up to the fuse block? This went all the way to the ignition switch and back on the Z28 which is I assume why there was the fusible links added as there are a lot of potential shorts along the way. Mine is about a foot long so I dont see the point. Any insight would be helpful. Thanks Cameron

I had to break down and take the daily driver SVT Focus to the last race of the season to get a least a bit of a fix in for the year. A one front wheel wonder is no comparison to the full slick beast though ...

Not that what I say matters but I would keep it together and save up for the parts. No use tearing it apart just to let it sit waiting for funds. I know it's sucked having mine down the last year for the swap ... lost a whole race season. After all you are 'suffering' with a 12.0 car! Cameron