heavy85

I've thought about running cats for that very reason. What ones are you using? Thanks Cameron

My brother was hit and run in his two month old 1,000 mile GTI just before Christmas. Unfortunately he didn't get the license and his deductible is $1000. Last I heard a month or so ago and he was still waiting on the body shop. Cameron

I've read that as well - in the last 10 years (dont remember the exact # of years but something like that) on average cars have not improved on fuel economy at all despite huge advancements in technology since the cars are so much heavier with gizmo's and crap. Cameron

Last time we moved I had recently stripped a spare parts car for my '84 GTI driver/autoxer. Well technically they dont move parts but they did anyway ... I assume because they get paid by the pound but that's just speculation. Anyway to move the engine/transaxle (still attached to each other) they set it on a furniture dolly - the kind with four small casters and four 2x4's with a little carpet wrapped around the wood. Anyway when they unloaded they didn't feel like lifting it off so they said to just keep it. To make an long pointless story even longer it now holds up an L24 wasting valuable space in my garage (GTI is long gone). And yes it's plenty strong and moves around easily enough to be useful. Cameron

I thought cherry headers were normal if under heavy load or elevated idle such a during break-in ... at least one's I've seen on the dyno do? I thought this is one reason header manufacturers say not to use ceramic coated headers during break-in as the coating hasn't fully cured and the high heat will damage the coating. At least that's what the JTR (Sanderson) headers say. Cameron

People keep saying it's easier than it can be ... and mine is a Cali car. I did in not particular order: Plan A: Pull (home made similar to loaner tool) Beat Heat & beat Air hammer Bigger hammer More heat Plan B: Take to shop with a press .... then heat 'til cherry & press .... nothing Plan C: Drill it out using progressively larger drill bits from both ends and finally got them out. Here is what's left of one ... and it's better than the other I just can find the other one. It'll take years off your life and I know for a fact took years off my poor drill. Cameron

I've only had to push out the side near the front on the passengers side. Very subtle and not much - oh yeah and grind off a stray tang on the T56 .... but then again I'm making my own mounts so can't say for the JCI mounts. And I definitely had to remove the stock mounts. PS - I'm running the entire garage on one 15A circuit - including Miller 135 & compressor. I've never had a problem with the welder but the compressor will trip the breaker if it's cold and there are too many lights on or if I forget to turn off the little electric oil filled space heater. The chop saw will do the same but otherwise I've had no problems. Cameron

Woohoo the passengers side JTR header will clear the k-member ... barely but close enough Now to the engine mount. It took a lot of pondering to get to this. You quickly realize that the mounts have to be fairly far forward - especially on the passengers side once you get the headers on. I started with the SBC to LS adapter plates on the drivers side (e-bay) then built a tower from the cross-member up to the mount. I will go back and add a leg down to the k-member for more support. The passengers side is a whole different story but I'll post that later when I get it done. I could have just tied into the frame rails instead but for efficient load path reasons I wanted to keep the engine mounted to the cross-member. Top view Front view Bottom view - this is where you can see where I will tie in from the main mount back into the k-member. PS - for exhaust I decided to go with a cross-over in the middle and two round Magnaflow straight through mufflers that will exit just in front of the rear tires. Should look and sound bad-a$$ ... I just hope it's not so loud I want to wear ear plugs going down the highway. Cameron

That's a heavy exhaust!

Way back in high school in my first Z - three in the front, two in the back, and it scraped pretty good leaving the driveway. Cameron

I would have to agree. You really need to set a goal for what you want to accomplish and go for it. Sounds like you really have your heart set on this so I say do it. My mildly modified 240 has taken FTD (fastest time of the day) at the Autox beating out about 60 cars including a particular C5 Z06 who ALWAYS (read ALWAYS) gets fastest indexed time (including when I beat him in raw times) but at the same time I would not exactly call it a boulevard cruiser. In fact it's not really something I would want to drive everyday but could if I had to ... then again I'm getting spoiled with A/C, cruise, radio, etc in my late model daily driver. Cameron

Must be a different Cameron as I'm still using the 300ZX LSD R200. No luck on the headers as they've (JTR) screwed up twice now. First they sent them to someone but it wasn't me and then they lost my order when they were suppose to send them the second time and now they were suppose to go out on Tuesday with four day shipment so we'll see if they get here on Monday. Friday will be three weeks from initial order. Cameron

I believe it has to do with buckling vs yield and typically bucking is only a concern with very small t/r ratios (thickness/radius) such as in an aluminum can. By the way stiffness is inversely proportional to t/r so large radius and thin wall is the stiffest. This is where you have to consider buckling to determine the practical limit. Cameron

Well I still dont have my JTR headers - apparently they shipped just not to me so it'll still be a few days. It'll be tight to get the exhaust through there but I'm still holding hope it'll work. Starter fits fine Since I'm waiting on headers to start the engine mounts I moved on to the transmission mount. It's tied into the subframe as I'm of the opinion the tranny tunnel weakens the middle of the car so tying the sides together is a good thing. I obviously still have to cut the arches for the exhaust and figure out a way to attach to the vertical plane of the tunnel to get the full benefit of tying the sides together. Anyway here it is in process. Cameron PS - this is something new as for some reason spell check is now on as I type?

Yeah that's it. Thanks Cameron

I thought I remembered someone posted a list of which wires need to connect to where to make the LS1 harness work but cant seem to find it. Anyone know where that is? I know the wiring diagram is available on LS1Tech.com but this was simplified into you hook up the necessary few power, ground, tach and go but maybe my memory if failing? Thanks Cameron

From the other thread a couple days ago I still think that welding a tube from here to the strut towers provides a very solid and well supported structure - EVEN AT THE FIREWALL. It's centered in front of the vertical support on the inside of the cowl (the one Jon only has on the drivers side by I have on both sides) and tied into the top horizontal plate creating a very stiff joint. Cameron

I remember seeing the start of that thread but why was it removed? Cameron