heavy85

But there is no vacuum line attached anywhere near the gas tank? There is the fuel supply and return but that's it? Where do the vacuum lines route from - I assume ends up at the throttle body but through where? There are a bunch of lines contained on the tank but they dont leave the tank towards the engine at all? Thanks Cameron

I've mounted up the Camaro tank and am starting the pluming but am wondering what to do with the evap emissions charcoal canister & associated stuff. If I understand it reads tank pressure and if it's above some level then it purges into the throttle body to burn off the vapors. I wasn't even planning to hook up the pressure sensor and I can't seem to find this cannister unless it's built into the top of the tank? So is anyone using the stock Camaro stuff or if not how do you handle the pressure / vacuum that forms in the tanks as the air heats and cools and therefore expands or contracts? Thanks Cameron

To check if there is air around the sender have your backed the sender out and listened for air coming out or is it all water? Cameron

Where is it on an LS1? Reason I ask is I have an extra connector and according to the pinout it goes to the CPS but I cant seem to find the sensor to plug it into? Thanks Cameron

I'm finally starting to part out the Z28 and am wondering if anyone knows what how to ship the airbags? On e-bay there is always a 'hazardous material' surcharge but do I just tell the UPS man that it's an airbag and he know what to do? I'm hoping someone before me has some experience. Thanks Cameron

It's a little hard to tell but looks like you have a narrower than stock radiator which leaves a gap at least on the left side (cant see the right side) between the side of the radiator and the core support. This allows recirculation of hot air right around back into the inlet of the radiator. Might try to block it off with cardboard and ductape as an experiment to see if that helps then if so fab a more durable solution. Cameron

It was in Hotrod a couple months back - designed to go ~300 MPH at Bonneville with a 4 banger if memory serves.

They are Hoosier slicks size 22.5x9.5-15. They are not DOT approved and I've never tried to get any DOT radials on them since I run in Prepared class that allows full slicks. Yes I do run the same size all around. Thanks Cameron

TitaniumZ - sorry if this has been asked before but what side vents are those? Thanks Cameron

Well I stripped down the '02 Camaro harness to bare essentials including the wiring to the fuse block to get ready to put into the 240. I was thinking the ground wires off the ignition and starter relays were to the ignition switch and starter switch .... but I now see that main power to the relays comes from the switches, signal from the ECM, and ground from ???? I cut these two relay ground wires out of the harness now am trying to figure out where they went. One is black and the other is dark green and again these appear to be the ignition and starter relay grounds. Anyone know where these went so I can put them back in the correct spot? I'm wondering if they went all the way back to the PCM's for grounding? There's plenty of info out there on the PCM pinouts but I can find very little on using the fuse block. Thanks Cameron

I think most are running with ONLY the top mount and ditch the stock mount therefore the diff is hanging by the top mount ... which was designed by the factory to be used with weight on top of it not hanging underneath it ... which is why it is getting torn apart .... and since the Energy mount is interlocking does not get torn apart. Some have left the stock mount in place hence the 'sandwich' but the design intent is no sandwich. Cameron

For catch can and overflow it doesn't matter. Hell people have successfully used plastic Coke (substitute beverage of choice) bottles for overflow tanks. However I personally would be conservative with the surge tank due to the nature that it holds highly flammable liquid and last thing I would want to see is stress a crack (from welding or vibration or the way it's mounted or poor penetration or etc) ... but then again fire scares me. I'm am dumbfounded how people wear sleeveless shirt and jeans at the demo derby when at the two I've been to about every other run is temporarily stopped to put our random fires. Seems to really depend on your welding skills to me. Cameron

Looks like a bunch of spot welds. I find that blow through is much worse if you go too slow or weld a bunch in a row in a small area such that the whole thing is HOT and gooey. Spot welds would help as long as you can get penetration. I'm still struggling with welding stuff on the floor as it's so thin. I can't imagine 20 gauge. Cameron

I understand tying the cage to the A-pillars as its convenient and actually strengthens the downtube (good for safety and stiffness) but I'm still confused as to the front roof attachment. Thinking about what load cases you are trying to cover. Look at the ROUGH sketch below which is suppose to be a front view of the windshield opening and let me see if I can explain my thoughts. The top solid line is the roof, the dashed line under it is the halo, the verticals are the A-pillar / front downtubes acting as one member since you connected them, and there are corner gussets at the top. EDIT: This didn't work out as it dropped the spaces in the middle but just picture all the right side vertical pieces lining up. __________ l-----------l l/ l l l l ________ l My assumption is the load cases into the roof/halo in the view are 1) compression as in braking or 2) parallelograming as during cornering. You basically have two independent top members (roof and halo) which unless you 1) are into yielding (buckling case) tying them together would not provide much benefit and 2) the strength for parallelograming mostly comes from the corner gusseting and bending modulus of the structure which connecting the two I dont believe would provide much benefit either. So what input loads would benefit from attaching to the roof here? Maybe minor benefit but I'm not sure it would be measurable. I understand attaching to the hinge area in the rear because there is not a real convenient way to attach to the B-pillars and the hinge area is already reinforced. In the end it's not much steel but I try to think about what and there the input loads are and plan to react those loads with the bracing. Maybe there's more to the front roof than I realize ... maybe Cameron

Isn't that because the cage was not tied to the upper part of the shell? You already have A-pillars tied to the cage so this will not happen ... still trying to rationalize in my head how tying the halo to the roof helps stiffness IF you already did that with the A-pillars. Please help me understand the logic here as maybe I'm missing something? Cameron

Speachless. Buzz Lightyear's come to life - and he's French!

Am I backwards in thinking you have this backwards? If the cylinder was larger it would displace more fluid for the same travel. Therefore if you put an even bigger one on then it would grab just that much sooner. A smaller one would take more pedal travel before it moved enough fluid out of the slave cylinder to engage the clutch and improve your problem - no? Cameron

How can you forget it and yes I bought it off e-bay about three years ago. Cameron

Bet y'all are jealous. Check out the grinding dust on the dash (thanks SFC)... and the Benneton (sp?) Momo wheel .... oh yeah ............................................... at least it's a Momo ... Line starts here for bidding on the wheel 'cause I know it must be in high demand. Just imagine how you can embarrass your passengers with this thing. Cameron

In my experience unless ambient temps are relatively low (< roughly 70 deg F) I've not had a problem getting heat in them for autox. Yes when it's cool/cold out they really suck and you would be better off with a sticky DOT tires ... but then again I'm running an R35 compound all year and if money were no object switching to a softer compound in the cold would help there. Cameron

Here's what mine looks like in race trim with 9.5" FA Hoosier slicks on 10x15 rims. Edit - mine is not gutted like the one above as I still have the original dash ... just nothing else but a leather seat & door panels .

I was thinking of sticking a compressed air nozzle in the end and see of you could blow it out.

I know you dont want to weld but I would recommend sectioning the struts to gain suspension travel and limit using the bump stops (less predictable). Sticky tires are a must and will take seconds off street tires in one fell swoop. Offset bushings are also nice so you can dial in rear toe and settle down the rear end plus add a little camber to the front. Biggest lap time improvement will be the tires and if it were me I'ld add flairs and 10" rims. Looks good (better even IMHO) and add gobs of rubber to the ground. I won FTD with little more than you're set-up and 10" rims w/ FA Hoosiers ... well and it's gutted but that's probably not more than 100 lb savings ... and my engine is no where close to yours. Cameron

Seems to me like the only place is along side of the tranny in front of the tranny mount which I'm considering but worried about the heat radiating off from them. Haven't thought it through completely though. Cameron