2126

Tekira, it seems as though you have found the sourse of your problem by the process of elimination. It's likely that there is some sort of crud restricting the flow, at the tank outlet, to your filter and pump. These old cars are good candidates for this, considering their age and all. The fun part is trying to get the crud out, short of removing the tank and having it reconditioned. Remember, the outlet is about 3/16" I.D. and it doesn't take much to restrict it. I've read about trying to back flush the tank through the outlet, with the tank drain open, using a non flammable liquid (no water or oils) with sucsess. If your lucky enough to have access to an illuminated fiber-scope that's fuel proof, you can do a visual inspection either through the fill spout or through the drain plug. Anyway, it sounds to me as though you have some crud in there that need to be removed. Oh the joys of an old car!!! Good luck and let us know what happens.

Has anyone ever experienced a failure with a Mallory fuel pump? The specific pump I'm talking about is the 70 series gear type pump, intended for carbs. I appears that the electric motor has failed. I disassembled the bad pump to see what I could see, but it appeared that there was no mechanical failure.....no crud, no galling, no broken parts. The motor just quite. I used a 12 volt power supply to test the motor but at best the motor only tried to turn but would not come up to speed. I did replace the unit with a new one, which by the way work just fine. I'm just interested in knowing if these units are typically unreliable. What do you think guys?

Brian, I've done the conversion you mentioned. Unfortunitely, I have CRS (can't remember shit). However, try going to the Classic Zcar Club site and do a search there. I believe you will find what you are looking for. Good lord, I may get chastized for making that suggestion. Anyway, I'll look through my notes tonight and see what I can provide you with. I do remember one little item......after I completed my conversion I started the car and was really happy with the results until I went to turn the car off. Well, it wouldn't turn off!!! Oh crap, I thought to myself. Whats wrong now? As it turned out, I had forgotten to install the little ziener diode in the circuit. Installed it......been working perfectly ever since. Talk at you later. Tom

Happy B-day!!! Ahhh! To be 16 again and know what I know now...... Can you imagine the fun you could have? Ooops, sorry you won't understand this yet. Do yourself a really big favor in life and get as much education as you can!!! I know, it's really sucks to think about it at your age, but you will definitely thank yourself later in life for doing so. Trust me on this one. Also, look at the one bright side of a good education......one day you will be able to afford all the "gotta have" items you ever wanted for your favorite Z car.

I'm surprised that with all the replies, someone didn't mention anything about the oil pan!!! Looks pretty low to me. Granted, the caz is pretty awsome, but don't you think that with a lowered Z and an oil pan that looks to be about 1.5" to 2" below the front cross-member is surely asking for trouble. Maybe he intend to drive it on billiard table. To me, it looks like an accident waiting to happen. Other than that little issue...........WOW, NICE Z!!!

You didn't mention anything about what ignition you are running! If it's the stock bowtie distributor, it might be that it's just not capable of reliably handling anything above 4K rpm. The distributor could just be worn out. If I remember correctly, 327's had points.........NG for an engine with all those upgrades. Just a thought! I'm sure other guys on the site will chime in and provide you with recommendations. Good luck!

I had tail light problems with my 1970 and finally, after studying the wiring diagrams, checking voltages, etc., replaced the turnsignal assembly, as all the wiring for the lights interface with the turnsignal assy., and all was well again. Can't expect 30+ year old electrical parts to last for ever. The OEM item is still available and under $100.00 Just a suggestion!

On the subject of carbon fiber parts, I was on another Z car site and one of the members was inquiring about a carbon fiber rear tail light panel. Not a bad idea ehh! Sure would look good with a carbon fiber hood, don't you think. When they're available, I would buy one for my 1970. What do you think guys?

Is it safe to assume that C/F means carbon fiber? Yes, they would look very cool especially with a C/F hood (bonnet). I would think that if enough interest is generated, the folks that are making the hoods are likely to make the rear tail light panel as well. Good question though! I'm suprised no one has brought it up before. I too would be interested in purchasing one.

quadcams, If I'm not mistaken, you can purchase an OEM Nissan grille that was in the 432 Z. Price!!? Well, it's probably not cheap, as you can imagine, but it an originbal Z part that bolts right in. Ther might be some info on it at the Classic Zcar Club site. They're pretty much into the series 1 cars and will gladly help you out as best they can. Good luck! It's an open mesh style as I remember. No more horizontal slats!

butlersz, If I might suggest, go to some cam manufactures website and they should have alot of the info you are asking about. They usually have tech hot-lines that will answer specific questions as well. One thing for sure, they will ask you what heads you are using. As mentioned previuosly, bowtie heads come in many different configurations. Basically, the more info you can provide them with, the easier it will be for them to help you out. Good luck! Tom

ZERO, Sorry but this is not my rollbar. I'm just inquiring about the one in the photo on this post. I've been looking for some time now for a unit that does not bolt to the rear fenderwell, you know, the ones made by the outfit in San Diego and sold through MSA and other such Z parts outlets. I want one that ties the main hoop to the strut towers and to the floor board area. I knowt the fenderwell mounted units are approved by a number of racing organizations, but I've also heard that over time, with relatively stiff suspension, that the attach points tend to fail.....sheetmetal begins to crack. NG!!! Of course the safety issue is a prime concern but I also would like to have the benfit of chassis stiffening with out a full cage. Hope this clearafies things for you..............I think we're in the same boat, so to speak.

That has got to be one of the best posts I've ever seen. Absolutely awesome!!!! This is the kind of stuff that helps make this site as good as it is...............just love the techie stuff.

Oh! I forgot to mention I did do the work of filing, sanding, filing, sanding, etc. However, I did discover that the process of buffing out the parts will remove more of the small inperfections than I had first thought. So, talk with the polishing shop first, so you don't spend an excessive amount of time filing , sanding, filing, sanding. Tom

John, Unless you are into getting covered in black crud and are willing to put in the effort it takes to get your parts all shinny, then I would suggest taking them to a shop that polishes aluminum parts. They typically know what they're doing and they can have it done way faster than you will. When I got my parts back I was afraid to touch them they looked so good!!!Cost??? Well, in my case, I had my balance tube, both intakes runners, and cam cover done for $125.00 Don't get me wrong here, I prefer to do my own work on my Z but sometimes you have to draw the line between common sense and ego. Just one man's opinion, Tom

Thanks for the insight on your rollbar and also on Branden's. I'm running a set of Sparco seats that do not recline, so that's not an issue for me. I think either of the two designs would suit my purpose just fine. If you have information regarding a price and availability, it would be sincerely appreciated. I will search for Branden's info too! Thanks again, Tom

74-5.0L-Z, First off, thanks for your prompt reply. The rollbar design, in the photo you provided in your post, looks very good and I would be interested in it as well. However, the rollbar on page 3 of our gallery includes supports that rum from each side of the hoop down to the center tunnel, just in front of where the rear interior deck begins. Is this in fact one of yours 74-5.0L-Z? Anyway, nice work. My application for the rollbar is for a street car Z, with multiple suspension modifications and only a small amount of engine mods. I would just feel much better with a nice rollbar...if you know what I mean..............and I think you do! 2126

Hey guys, does anyone know the source or who the fabricator is for the half cage, shown in our gallery on page 3. The cage looks like a well thought out design and it doesn't attach to the wheel well sheetmetal. I would be very interested in purchasing a unit like this for my 1970 240Z. Can you help me out?

The shear fact and content of your question indicates that you should take the car to a profesional mechanic and have the entire system inspected and repaired as required!!!! Otherwise you may become a candidate for a Darwin Award.

Dave, You should have no problem with your choice if you select a wheel with the correct offset/backspacing. I've got 235-40x17 in the rear of my 1970, however they are on 9" wide wheels, with sectioned struts and coilovers.

One thing I did to facilitate easier "heel/toe" manuvers was by installing a set of Sparco alloy pedals. Of course any good pedal supplier will due! It will provide you a little latitude in positioning them for easiers pedal access. For instance.....I mounted the throttle pedal so it has a slight tilt (the bottom of the pedal) toward the brake pedal. So now I don't have to move my heel as far to blip the throttle. Some of the after market pedals actually have tabs at the bottom of the throttle pedal that protrude toward the brake pedal. Anywho, I think that positionong the pedals, to your liking, is a helpful thing to do.

Cablesvr, I have actually done the set-up you are talking about to my 1970 (see 240ZX photo gallery @ Classic Zcar Club site). I used the Ground Control set-up but it doesn't matter who's coilover kit you use as they are generally the same. When I discussed my plans with Ground Control, they advised me to shorten my struts by 1 1/2". They also sold me the correct inserts as well. They were quit helpful. Also, if you intend to run 8" or 9" wide 17's in the rear you will need 8" (free length) springs. I also installed the 1" bumpsteer spacers which basically position the transverse link near the original position (a good thing!) Also, you may want to concider adjustable camber plates so you can adjust in the correct camber. (If you go low without camber adjustment capability, you will end up with way too much negative camber). I run my Z on th street so I used 200 lbs. springs in the front with a 25mm sway bar and 275 lbs. springs in the rear with a 19mm sway bar. Inserts are Tokico non-adjustables. The adjustable shock do however provide you with better set-up options but they do cost more. Hope this info helps out.

I have to concour with Mike about the GC coilover set-up. I installed them on my 1970 and when I had questions I received good info back from their customer service. One good tip I can offer up is.....if you intend to use 8" or 9" wide 17's at the rear, you will need to use an 8" (free length)springs instead of the standard issue 10" springs. I encountered this when I was in the process of setting up my ride height. With the 10" springs, the locking ring was running into the tire/wheel upon getting the car to it's appropriate lowered position. Good thing the springs are pretty in-expensive.

Thanks for the quit responce Savage42. The guy who has the unit says it's a gear type like the Thorsen units, not a clutch or viscous tpye. What do ya think.....

Does anyone have information on a NISMO SSS LSD carrier...specifically, will it work in an R200 (3.90) out of an 1981 to 1983 280ZX, how does it's performance compare with the clutch type and od viscous units, and what do they cost used in good condition? Please help out a newbie to the site.