datsunan

Brandon I read your sig after my post and relized you had a V8, this guy still had the L24 but it was orange like yours

yeh I know its not to smart to be driving so fast on public streets but both me and the vett slowed when in traffic and only got in it when the road was clear. I don't know how accurate my speedo is, I tried this site http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ but I'm at work and our firewall will not let me see the the graph. I will try it from home to see how fast we were going. BW 5spd, 3.7 final, 225 50 16s, 6550rpm.

Out of Santee on the 52. I've seen you around the Q on friday nights, last time I saw you you just about blew your tire off during a burnout.

Out testing my re-routed wastegate signal hoses when I see some lights coming up behind me fast. Two cars are racing up behind me, we are going up a long steep hill where I like to test my boost without getting up to much speed. Just as one of the cars is about to pass me (i'm doing 80mph) I punch it and the turbo spools up quickly bringing me even with a new vett. He slows a little so he can see what just caught him. The other car had backed off already. Then I hear the vet engine roar and off he goes, I'm 3 car lengths back, and he's got the jump on me but I hit it and start to real him in, I check my boost and its right on the money for once(1.3 bar) I get up even with him in about 10 sec and I check our speed 130mph!(up hill!). We both back off as we get to the top of the hill and I pull up along side to get a look at him. I don't know the new vetts very well but I don't think it was a zo6 but it was the new style. As we crest the hill I drop back in behind him as we squeze through traffic. As soon as it opens up, here we go again, he has 2 car lenghts on me this time and I chased him down again, at speeds under 110 I could real him in but at 140mph I could only hold on. Time to turn up the boost and find him again. What a rush! Going to the drags this weekend, exspecting good times with my steady boost new clutch and 10lb fly.

So how come there is now gravity in space? That is the most f'd up thing Ive heard in a long time!

If I was naive and gullible I would have believed they landed just like the rest of the world does.

I don't have java script so I can't see the moon site. Can you see the rover and the flag? That would debunk the myth that we never went to the moon. I kinda think we did'nt and have always said if you took a look at the moon it prove one way or the other.

I thought maybe it was the connector so I tried moving it around while the car was running and the red led stayed on solid. I is a z31 ecu and I have clead and inspected my connectors they look really good. Thanks for the reply I may have to change them if I can't come up with anything else. Any other ideas out there? I would really like to know what mode the ecu is in when the red is solid, and what causes it to be solid, tps?, no I disconnect it and it stays on, jumper it it stays on but idle changes so I know it works. tried another chts runs better when its cold but it is due to the timing change, its still lumpy, then I heated the chts with a lighter and it went to hell again. Also makes no diff if I disconnect the o2, but maybe it is not working, only sometimes it kicks in and the car runs great.

I'M having problems with my idle, tonight I noticed that when it is running poorly the led on the ecu is red and solid. All the sudden it starts flashing slow or goes green then red then green and the idle smooths out, it also runs ruff at higher rpms when idle is bad. It switches back and forth randomly. What causes it to switch? What is it doing when the red led is on solid? Thanks Paul

I would soak them in carb cleaner and yes the 9 volt bat will work to open them.

Ok I've heard the word SCARAB but what is it? I'm ashamed I have to ask. Nice car by the way, enjoy the ride!

If you think the braided line is exspensive wait till you have to buy all the fittings! I must have spent $150+ on my fittings. Just to get the braided lines to attach to the rail it takes 4 fittings at a cost of $20 or so. I used 1/2" hard line from the diff foward and then braided as you see in the pics. Fuel filter in the front of the head into JSK out to Aeromotive FPR, back to cell. don't mean to discourage you just wanted to let you know its going to cost you. It was a big suprise to me how much it cost every time I went to the hot rod shop. check out Summitt Racing get a cataloge. Good luck.

If it blew between 4&5 with both heads I would check to make sure you deck if flat. Are you torqueing the head down in order?

Thanks for the post. I just had to buy a new clutch and was thinking about doing a light wieght fw, then I saw this post and thought thats fate!! I gotta order one, so I did! I called direct and he sold it to me for the same price. He said he had 60 and now he is down to 4, snatch them up! Says the na and turbo are the same fw, I wonder if the just make them bigger for the turbo so a smaller na disc would still work just have a little extra meat on the outside edge...?

Well yes and no, it was not the screw holding the rotor on to the shaft from the side it was the screw holding the shaft or colar thing that screw to the top of the dist shaft. If you take the rotor off there is a gold colar or cylinder that sandwiches the crank angle disc to the dist shaft, and it is what the rotor mounts to, the screw holding it down was not tight enough. Time will tell but I'm 99 % sure that was it. Now if I could just get rid of my detonation. Thanks for the help.

took the dizzy apart today and found the rotor could move if I twisted it kinda hard. The little screw was in it and tight so I pulled it apart farther and found the screw that holds the the base that the rotor screws to was not tight enough and allowed some movement if enough stress was applied. Well that only took me 1 1/2 years to figure out but then I did'nt really try to hard to fix it seeing as how this is the first time I have taken it apart.

I am trying to link my sig with my dyno graph that is in the photo album but it does not come up blue, check this post sig to see what I mean. I don't want the pic just a link to it.

I just called Aimco clutch which is the company selling the XTD on e-bay. Talked to a guy named Jimmy who seemed to know his stuff. I told him my mods and that I had 330rwtq and 290rwhp that was to much for my Centerforce II dual friction clutch. He said the best way to go with the XTD line was to use a stage 4 pp and a stage 2 organic disc for high trq and good drivability. The one on e-bay is stage 3 pp and ceramic disc. My price was $215. I'm going to order on tomorrow but it may be a week befor I put it in. I will post how it works and see if it hold on the dyno. My CF II clutch slipped on the dyno and I never got my true magic #.

Search site support for posting pics or check this thread, it may be all you need. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97297&highlight=post+pics cut and past the url between the

Thanks thats what I needed to hear.

My buddy is getting a new factor stock long block from somewhere in TX. His old setup with 280 block and 240 head had a bad HG that cause the block to rust in the cylinders so it had to be trashed. Can he use the SU's on a 83 na head? Are the ports the same? I don't know what the #'s of either head but I think the SU's need a round port, and I know my turbo ports are round but I had a 75 block and head that had square intake ports. Thanks Paul