datsunan

Hey trouble was that the edge of the nut or the center?

Can someone tell me what the distance is between the rear struts on a 240? Mine measure 33 3/4" My car was in an accident befor I bought it and I can see that my tire is tilted in at the top like something is bent. Note I have torn this car down to the bone and rebuilt it, painted ALL the suspention parts and not found any thing to be bent or out of shape. Many parts were replaced on rear pass side where it was hit including the stub axle and A arm. I know something is out of wack but I don't know what yet so I need to know what I should measure center to center on my rear strut bolt top and bottom if you could please. Thanks Paul

This thread makes me realize how little I know about my suspension geometry. What is the best read for tuning Z suspensions?

I powder coated my turbo block and it does not run hot at all but I also have a MSA alum radiator that works very well. I can't tell you if it makes it run hotter or not. I paid $150 to have the block done but it was only the 2nd block this guy had done even though he has been in buisness for many years. I also had the machine work done first then they just use a plastic like tape for masking and as long as they do a good job masking you should not have a problem. I did a candy apple red on my block and it is kinda translucent so you get some small color changes depending on the roughness of the surface. If i was to so it again I might want to smooth the block first, but then I'm kinda sick like that. Just use a solid color and it will look great forever.

I have a turbo mani but it would take even more time to clean up, more holes more screws. The one I had was polished, and is now for sale if anyone wants one. Yeh I need to figure a way to get that piped back in without gumming up the works, I've got some ideas.

Scottie Gnz you are right on the money! I went to Jwt today brought the car down and once someone saw it pull up they came out of another car to talk to me. this guy told me exactly what I had suspected, that the problem I was experiencing is dew to the DP making the engine breath better. Same as what you just said. The problem is as he explained and as you had said earlier, you (I) don't know what is happening in the engine. And as Bernardd stated I need to buy a wideband 02. JWT also said I should buy the Innovative Data aquisition device so I can log whats happening. then and only then will the be willing to help me out. $100 dollars buys me a chip of what changes I ask them to make. Again Bernard is right I need to buy the batronix programmer. And on and on and on .............. Thanks for the help guys you are an asset too this sight! Ps the guy who filled my head with knowledge was Jim the man himself. If I did'nt know any better I would think you guys work for JWT. JK

but a quick Q what dit you do when you cut it open? polish teh inside ? No the section you see cut open is the runner for the EGR. I cut the rest of it off. There was so much carbon build up in there it was about 1/4 inch thick.

Yeh I wish that was an option, although I live in the next town over from JWT I have asked if they would help me out with this and they said they don't work on customers cars. They have a dyno but only use it for R and D. The thing is I use to be able to run these inj at 37 off my stock rail as high as 17psi boost and had no problem. New DP and JSK rail and aeromotive FPR and now I have this problem. I could not adjust my fp before and did not need to. These upgrades were suposed to make the car run better not give me more issues, its so frustrating to invest time and money and go backward on performance. Update on det, drove the car during the day at 20deg timing and 44psi and it does not det as loud but it is a bit longer now. Does not det in 1st or 2nd but longer pulls in 3rd-5th. Idle continues to get worse. I will pic up some Seafoam but I don't think it will help in the long run.

Sounds to me you did'nt set your timing right with the TPS closed or the TPS is not closing at Idle so your ecu never knows when you are at Idle.

I can say from experience that unless you remove your drivetrane from the tranny back it is very hard to run hard lines in fasion similar to stock. You should also pic up a small hand held tubing bender if you want it to be right and it makes it easier. I would go with bradded if I had to do it again. Much easier, faster and are just as durable as aluminum lines, maybe not stainless but stainless are even harder to install then alum because it is harder to bend. Plan on spending $200-$300 just on fuel lines and fittings it ads up fast! Good luck.

Well that was better but I still heard some, faint and short but better. 44psi timing at 20deg, idle sucks and the exhaust burns my eyes. I got bad gas milage before I can only imagine what it will cost me to get to Vagas this weekend, but hopefully I will make it now. I'll have to see how it is when its warmer out tomorrow. Maybe I should try to regap my plugs? Is .25 what I should be going for? I have heard conficting ideas on this.

So jeff your saying I should set my inj to 44psi for the 400hp? I wonder why Ben at Jwt did not tell me that, he told me 37. I'm going to try that right now I'll be back in a few.

Sorry Scotti GNZ, yes they are aftermarket Bosch but they were in before this round of mods and worked fine at 37psi like JWT recomended. I have not yet tried 43psi yet I have not had much time to mess with the car, maybe I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion. Bernardd, its a yellow/white wire #5 that goes to the transistor thingy at the coil, I had my Apexi hooked to that for tach signal then it went away when I hooked up my MSD. What is the CAS? is that the disc in the dist with all the slots in it? While driving the car tonight if I hit 14psi at low revs like under 3500 it does not det but as the revs pass 4500 it dets for 1/2-1 sec then goes away, don't know if that helps. I wish I could get it on a dyno and see my afr and timing are doing but I don't have the cash for that right now. Can someone lay on my fender and shoot the timing light while I do a 3rd gear pull?

My plugs are NGK BPR8es. Bernardd let me run this by you, when I installed the msd ignition my apexi boost controller lost the tach signal. It was hooked to the tach signal for the ecu. I hooked the Apexi boost controller to the tack output lead from the MSD and it worked fine but if I try to hook the ecu to that lead the car dies. Maybe my ecu is not seeing the rpm anymore? If I rev the engine with my timing light hooked up I see it advance, does that mean it is seeing the rpm or does it advance off something else? the MSD was installed before my last round of mods listed above and had no problem, but then again I had a hard time remembering how the coil and msd were wired when I put it back together, maybe I should check my coil wiring. I know if it is wired +/- reversed that it will run but not as well. Thanks for your help, Paul.

Thanks for the reply guys. My plugs look good #1 is light but it may be from before, when I pulled my stock fuel rail off I found a small peace of rubber in the injector neck. The plugs are new and are gapped to .035 with Msd 6 running them. Bernardd, How does my JWT ecu know what boost I'm at and where timing should be. Would it help me any to add a boost retard? I will try to reduce timing and see if that helps tonight. Hopefully I can get this fixed so as I can not go boosting all over town much more. I got a ticket for 92 in a 65 last night, ouch!

Yes they do go all the way through, I had made a block off for my last one it worked fine. It cost $150 to crome and the labor to prep was my time. I don't think you could build one for $150 and the time would be way more IMO.

If you have ever put cheep gas in a car and floored it going up a hill it makes a metalic tapping or some call it ping, I think that is also detonation, that is what I'm hearing. Clifton thanks for the reply, its hard to tell what boost I'm making at 3500 things are happening to fast to catch it, but what you say about det happening at peak torque makes sense. After a few more pulls today it does seem to happen right when it pulls hardest, for maybe one second then goes away. Its not the gas, same octane I was running. I need to put it on a dyno and see what my A/F ratio is I guess. Tannji There is a guy on this sight Bernardd that has reprogramed the z31 ecu's and I have talked to him about getting the hardware so I can do mine but I think it runs like $500. Once I have it then if I do mods in the future I can make the needed adjustments. I'm hoping Bernardd will respond to this post and give me some more insight.

So I put on a new 3" dp and JSK fuel rail, external 40mm wastegate and now I have detonation at about 3500rpm and 10lbs of boost then it goes away for the rest of the pull till 6500 and 14lbs it comes back. Before my mods I was able to boost 16lbs and never heard detonation. I have tried to adjust timing from 20 -23 and no change only better idle at 23, I have raised fp to 40 at idle with vac line disconnected, that made it a little better but my idle suffered. So my thinking is that my fuel map from Jim Wolf does not take into account my engine breathing better with this 3" dp and is not supplying enough fuel at these points.? Any thoughts? I fear for the life of my engine, it is much stronger now and I'm having trouble keeping my foot out of it. If I don't get this fixed soon,,, Booooom!

Its hard to tell what your looking at with all the glar from the crome but man It looks really nice in person. I think I must have taken a couple of pounds off this thing. It took a long time to prep for crome but I think its worth it. Notice my new throttle linkage, it is just a 1/4" stainless tube with a cable running to the tb straight onto the gas pedal. It cleans the top of the runners off completly except for the efi wires that are now also mounted in a polished stainless tube. I still need to put my plug wires in stainless but it looks good for now. Befor. after cutting off the EGR and runner one more for the road

You guys are all bitchen about cars with bling winning, you obviously don't know who did win. It was that fadded, cracked and chipped paint job with a dirty as supra engine that took first place from guys like you, my car with lots of custom work and yes bling took third. If you know the car that took first place you would not have a word to say about my car with its "anyone can get parts cromed and painted" How about that winning ride with crap for paint and not a speck of bling!

You can use a mig welder with stainless wire and argon but I used a Tig welder with the same materials. I would not have been able to weld the thin flex to the thick flange with a mig. It was my first time using a Tig and I like it better than my mig.