datsunan

Thanks guys, thats what I thought but was not sure. Did not know about the condensation so I'm glad I asked.

What is the best place to mount a wb o2 sensor? I just purchased an lm-1 and thought I remembered reading something about them needing to be mounted further down the exhaust than the nb sensor. Can someone confirm and recomend placement? 18" sticks in my head.? I could not find placement suggestions on the MS or LM-1 sites. thanks Paul

Even the 240's had high beams! Check this thread for ideas, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106988

Please pm me, I am still interested. Thanks Paul

What happens in the flasher, you have a peace of bi-metal in the flasher that heats up when the blinker is turned on. If you only have one or two bulbs drawing power threw the flasher the bi-metal does not get hot enough to open, once open it cools very quickly and closes, gets hot and opens, and so on. The more the amp draw the faster it heats up, thus as stated above you have a bulb out or a bad ground that is not allowing your bulbs to burn bright and pull the amps needed for the flasher. Keep working on it your getting warmer.

Does your other blinker work? Do all lights flash when you put the hazards on? If so than the problem is in the switch on the column. Everything starts at the switch on the column and then goes through the flasher, so if the flashers work than the problem is not in the wirring from the front to back, it must be in the switch or the wirring between it and the flasher. If your flashers don't work than it could be anywhere in the circuit. Unless you got a new turn switch I would be it is the problem. Good luck.

I am having a similar problem with my car but I have a mis right off idle and it seems to become less noticable at higher rpm. I also have the msd 6a and an electric fan but have had both for some time and only recently started having problems with a mis fire. I bought a MSD blaster coil, new wires, plugs, cap/rotor and still have it. Is it the signal wire from the msd that is picking up rf? What if it is run alone? I have noticed a change in Idle when my fan kicks in but thought it was due to a voltage change to the coil. I guess the easy thing to do is go back to basics with the stock set up. Is your problem fixed? It sounded like you were not so sure it was 100%.

About 15 years ago I tour down my first Z motor thinking I was going to build a beast. After it sitting in peaces for a year or more I realized that I was a poor bastard and would be for some time, I put it all back together. Problem is the brakes no longer worked very well and after starting it I was all excited to take it for a drive. Put it in reverse to back it out and DOWN my driveway, went to hit the brakes cause I was going to fast out into the street but I did not slow down, did I mention that the seat was not bolted down? So as I push harder on the break my seat falls back, I'm going way to fast now and can't reach the pedal anymore so I grab the wheel and try to pull myself foward to get more pressure on the break when the steering wheel comes off in my hands! At this point the seat also falls back to a reclined possition and I feel like I'm in a rocket ship with a steering wheel thats going backwards! Stupid nuts and bolts! Thank god my e brake still worked, stopped just in time to not hit the car parked on the other side of the street. Did I win???

I have an 83 dizzy and can change my timing at the dizzy as he was describing. Warren can I get that procedure from the fsm? pdierolf@sbcglobal.net. I have been having problems with a missfire into my intake that may be timing related. Thanks Paul.

It is definitly a backfire int o the intake and not the exhaust but changing the timing did not change it. I had removed the dist. but it only goes back in one way so I'm thinking its not timing. I will have to check my dist wring and plug wires. I'll also have to see if I can find anouther ign module, I had not thought of that as being a sorce of the problem. Have you seen that happen,that they work inter. I thought it was like a transistor, it either works or it does'nt, I hope your right. Thanks for the feedback.

It was at 42psi now its at 37, I had raised it becuase of the detonation I was having. I thought my new intake was collapsing so I put some 3" metal supports in it, no way it can collaps now. It runs Ok on boost but my hp levels are way off on boost so I think the miss is still there just not as noticable as rpm increases. It ran ok on the higher fp until I did my mods then it went to crap.

So I did some work on my car that should have increased HP but when I dynoed it it went down. Work done, new light weight fw and pp, replaced 3/8 fuel line with new 3/8 fuel line, cleaned fuel filters, new 3" 45deg intake hose to turbo, re-plumbed wastegate diaphram hoses to turbo outlet instead of manifold. Now I have a mis-fire that I can't figure out. I have checked for leaks and fixed two small ones, checked plugs, looked rich, adjusted fp down look good now, compression test 120psi on all, changed plugs, wires, coil, intalled new ground wire to block, disconnected wg signal hoses, checked and double checked ecu plugs and maf plug, checked plugs on injectors, chts and tps operation, fuel pressure is fine, timing makes no diff. I've also searched and tried every suggestion that I have come across, no luck. The car idles ok but as soon as I'm on the gas it sputters under load, as rpm goes up it is less aparent but shows up on the dyno as a 60hp lose. If I am in 3rd step on the gas and break to spool up the turbo it starts sputtering and then backfires into the manifold, it will also do this in 5th on a hill wot. Any other things I can check? Please help, Its making me really cranky.

I'm in when you are ready to order.

1 Front 3 rear please can I pay you for the rears now? I would like to use them as x-mas gifts for our Z club.

I think I'll make my fork adjustable, It feels like the clutch may not be disengaging fully but without an adjustable fork rod I can't do anything with it.

No I had it in right, theres no way to put it in with the spings facing the FW. The FW bolts are even with the FW surface leaving no room for the 1" of depth the springs would need, besides, the disc is marked "this side toward FW" on the side opposite the springs. The sping side you see in the pic fits into the center of the PP. Thats the only way.

Hey redneck, this clutch came with a new TOB and it looked very different then the stock one which is what I was using for the CF. I used the same colar that I used on the CF. I think the colar I used was from the bw t5 that I am using and I remember that the other 5spd I had used a shorter colar. The long colar worked fine with my CF, althought when I pulled my CF and disk out I noticed some wear on the springs for the disc where something was hitting it, the bolts on the FW also had marks on them on the outer edges where some thing was hitting them. Originally I thought the springs where hitting the bolts but I just went out and looked at it and the spings are on the PP side of the disc. I looked at the PP and see marks on the weights located on the PP fingers. So it looks like the wieghts were hitting the disc spring and possibly pushing them into the FW bolts. So I guess I had the longer colar in there already and that screwed up my old setup but is it right for my new one? What tranny did you get your colar from ? Someone told me that if the clutch is pushing in to far you can have problems with engagment, he said to try and shift with the clutch to the floor and again with it most of the way down to see if thats the problem. I can't feel a difference. I'm going to start with the easy stuff and change out the gear lube, bleed the clutch and maybe make an adjustment to the peddle. John, what are my options for a better tranny and how much more do I need to spend? I am using the BW t5 from an 83 turbo. I saw a BW tranny out of an 03-04 mustang that looked similar to mine, don't know if the bell housing could be swapped and the shaft turned down to fit the crank pilot. ? Thanks for all your input guys, I think I'll make another donation!

Thats a really nice set up, but I'm getting tired of chasing down weak links and spending money replacing new parts, I just want to drive! When will it end? I have other cars waiting to be restored and I'll never get to them if I keep having to spend my money on this money pit! Sorry need to vent.

This is my 2nd slave since building my car 1 1/2 yrs ago, it might have 10k miles on it. The master was also new when I built it, I'm not so sure thats it. The only other thing I did was to change the gear oil in the tranny, I used mobile synthetic 75w-90, maybe its to thick and causing problems with the syncoes (sp ?). Is ther a way to test the sycroes, someone told me if I shift the car without the engine on then start the engine and shift, if its easier to shift with the engine off then the syncoes are going out.?

So my CF II clutch could not hold the hp of my turbo L28 so I bought a XTD clutch that was good for 400hp. The clutch pressure is slighty heavier now. I am having problems with shifting at high rpm. Someone said that maybe the slave and master cylinder are not big enough to open the clutch all the way. Has anyone else had this problem? It shifts ok at lower rpm and at idle so I'm not sure thats it. Any other thoughts. Yes I bled the lines.

Thats true! I call my Z the poor mans Porsche, I have always wanted one but I built my Z and Love it, it will dew for now.

Your setup looks very similar to mine, but I like the way you ran your IC pipe out of the turbo. I could not get mine to clear that way, I don't remember why I could'nt but a I really wanted to do it that way. I had to go low along the frame rail then I roled a 90 on a 45 deg angle up in front of my rad and then leveled out and came threw the rad support. Not much different but you have one less turn and a more direct route, very nice work. Looks like the same IC I used, I got mine on ebay for $350 or so and it came with IC piping for the 300tt, made by Hybrid.

Yes you can use an egr mani, like this one and just cut the runner off the bottom like I did. Nice work on your mani, I know what you went through to get it like that but its worth it. Is that an injector in the front of the mani near the tb?

I just replaced my 13 month old SFDF with and XTD. Mine was doing the same thing but first started doing it on the dyno. When I pulled the clutch the disc looked fine but my FW had some stange spots on it like it got oil or something on it that burned and heated small spots in it, it also had some cracks so I'm glad I changed it to a 10.5 lb. Bite the bullet and buy a new clutch, to much power is not always a good thing to have when it comes to replacing new parts!

Hey Miles I was hoping you would be there tomorrow. I am hoping to cut 2-3 tenths off my best of 8.89 @ 84mph. I know I can do better than that! The FW is really nice, have you got yours yet? Car definitly revs faster in 1st and 2nd, gets my turbo spooled sooner. I also went with a clutch for 400hp but did not want the chatter that is sometimes associated with the puck and ceramic style clutch since my car is a daily driver for me. I am still breaking it in, the real test will be friday night in 3rd gear and 17psi. I'll let you know how much more work you will need to do to keep up with me later. Hurry up and get it on the road, I fear mine will be in need of a new HG soon, I already have a leak on my exhaust manifold that needs repair.