datsunan

No mech advance its an 83 dizzy so it has the disc in it.

Yeh at first I was only tightening one bolt on the dist because I had to change it so often but now I tighten both of them good.

The MSD 6A was added 6 months ago and I had the problem befor I put it on. One thing that was wierd when I put the MSD on was that I lost the tack signal to my APEX digital boost controler that was the same wire that went to my ecu. I had to hook the APEX boost signal wire to the MSD to get my signal back but if I tried to hook the ecu to that wire it would kill the car. Well the car runs with the ecu still hooked to the original tack wire so I guess its getting what it needs. Any who, the ecu is out of an 88 na z31 and is reprogramed by JWT.

Ever since I did my turbo swap I have had this problem with my timing changing for no reason. I set it to 20deg with the TPS closed, and the engine up to temp, then for some reason the car will start running poorly and when I check the timing it may be 25 or as low as 13. This has been going on for over a year and I can't figure it out. What would cause it to change? I know the ecu changes it for different engine temps and during load, but why would it change the Idle setting. Can the ecu adjust the idle timing? It is a JWT ecu. I'm thinking about pulling the ecu and going with MSNS but I don't need to if I can get this problem fixed, the car runs great when the timing is right. Any Ideas? Thanks Paul.

87 300zt from April on had LSD and all 88-89 turbo 300's

I would straighten it buy hand and then put it in, it will have so much force on it when it is installed that I don't see how it would not flatten out and be fine.

Hey Pete, what was the ramp rate you used? Maybe I could tell my dyno guys to give it a try. Hows New Hampshire? Use to have a cottage on lake Wentworth off Winni till my bitch of a stepmonster sold it when my dad died. I love it there.

Damn Tim! What have you done to that car to get that much power? Have you seen my list of mods? What would you recomend that I do next for more power? Oh by the way thank you all for the help with my clutch selection.

Yup thats what happened the night at the drags when it slipped, to many smokey burnouts and slipping the clutch on launch, I thought thats what made it slip. Who made the clutch you were getting from clutchspecialies? What kind of power were you throwing at it?

Only the valve cover, intake mani,and intercooler pipes. The rest is polished, I had the original intake and valve cover polished but I got tired of polishing it. The crome looks much better and easier to keep nice. I had the head polished on the side where the spark plugs are, that looks sweet.

Thanks guys, I'm at the point where I'm thinking, "how much is it worth to know that magic #..?" My clutch does not slip on the road so the only reason to change it is to see my max hp/torque, and after all isn't that why we spend this ungodly amount of money on our cars? I know that why I do it, its like crack or something! So.... what if the ramp rate was just increase a bit, so it could spin up with a bit less resistance, my clutch might not slip, I would gain Hp, but maybe lose a little torq, then It would smooth out and I could see an accuate reading of my hp-trq at 16 or ever 20 psi.......? Does my Apexi AVCR boost controler have an adjustment that would allow a slower spool? I think all I can do is adjust the duty cycle which is like the ramp control but it only controls your set point or set for a boost spike. I guess I could figure out how the speed control boost works. Thing has so many options! I'm rambling and should get back to work.

I'm running a center force II and did have a problem one night at the drags with it slipping in third gear, but that was last year and I have not had that happen since. I guess if the dyno is capable of producing more load than the road it could be my clutch. It only has like 2k on it, maybe with my new found power it is not enough anymore. What clutch would handle it? I have heard that the Act is very quick, hard and jerky when it engages. I use this as a semi daily driver and don't want a tough clutch, suggestion?

Get rid of all of it, just leave yourself enough vacuum hook-ups. You will need to set your idle using a jacking screw on the TB if you get ride of the idle air bypass dealie. N-42 manifold befor, after,

Thanks Drax some good onfo there. I don't know what the knurled roler is but they do mostly Mustangs and mucle cars, they did not even want to do my car, they said they did not have a tuner for foreign cars, I told them I was going to tune it and they still would not do it till I went in person. Anyways, the rolers in the front had groves in it for traction so I think it was on right. It was an in ground dyno. You don't see any dip or slip on these sheets because they are done at 13.5 psi not 16 where the problems started, I don't have those #s so I can't post them but the hp dropped straight off right when I was hitting max torq. and boost was just hitting 14psi. I don't know what the ramp rate was but I think it was off, like I said they don't do may jap cars, or turbo's either, so they may not know to set it differently. I will try to find out what it was.

The straps for this dyno had been burnt in half so we could not strap it down. They did allow me and my buddy to sit in the back 370 lbs. Still had the problem. I was told that they set a "ramp rate" befor the pulls begin, they don't set it when the car is pulling hard on boost so maybe the ramp rate needs to be different for a turbo with significant torq. Maybe the dyno over compensates when it sees the sudden rise in power? Any dyno opperator on this site? If not we need to train someone. I Think Bastaad has the most experience. I do have a lsd diff so its most likly not the tire slipping and my tires were suprisingly warm and sticky. Tony, these pulls I did not have the problem but the ones where I did showed the hp drop staight off. So some people have smelled there clutch burn and others have not, I wonder if it is dependant on the type of disc compound. I am running the Center Force II dual compound, anyone smelt this clutch burn?

Akeizm does your clutch slip when you drive it hard on the street? Mine does'nt. I can't see why it would slip on the dyno and not on the street. I reeeeaally don't think its my clutch. Any who, here are my slips,

I dynoed my car today with very similar set up, check out what happened, I will post my graphs and check out yours later got run for now. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=555368#post555368post555368

So I got my car dynoed today and I am not sure how to feel about what went down. My first dyno was with 91oct, 14.7 psi and timing at what was last set to 20deg. 2nd pull was with 100 oct 14.7 20deg. My 3rd pull I wanted to adjust my timing, what the hell its at like 13deg. I make the correction and increase boost to 16psi. Just as the motor hits max torq the engine revs like the clutch is slipping or the tires are spinning on the dyno. So we try it with two people sitting in the back and it does the same thing, multiple attemps same result. The say althought we don't smell your clutch we think it is slipping. So I take it out, 4th 5th full throttle up hill and no probem with slippage. I come back and they put a O5 corvette on the dyno to test it. No problem, put my car back on turn the boost back down to 14.7 and it pulls the best run yet 286hp and 336ft lbs, nice! So let me try one more time at 16psi, same result, something is giving and it aint my car. They give up and I am still not sure of the the magic #!

You need to go over everything. Don't be in a rush to go tearing up the streets you will have bugs to work out. List of things to check, leaks on intercooler pipes, timing set with tps closed 20 deg, tps opens just off idle both of these very important, tps must be working. I think the tps is your problem one way or another. Connections at the ecu and afm clean and tight, ZX notorious for this, car runs like crap, pos neg correct on coil, leak between turbo and afm. Hope that helps do some searching under the hood and on this site.

Just wanted to say I have the motorsport alum rad and it is great, if you want to spend the money. My temp is rock solid, never gets out of range or even close.

Your setup is similar to mine and your making better #'s then me. I was only able to get 250/290trq at 16psi. Are you running a JWT ecu? I just tried to make a dyno appointment at a JBA shop that has dynoed my car befor and they tell me they don't have the technology to dyno my car. I said I will do any tuning I just want dyno time! "We only do domestic cars, we don't have any techs that can work on foriegn cars". I said you still know how to put it on the dyno right? Yeh but we won't do it. What the hell!? I will try to get mine dynoed somewhere and see how the compare. I have not dynoed since I add a 3" dp and external wg new fuel rail and MSD. Keep trying to get the slips posted, I'd like to see them.

Pretty cool but was he hitting the rev limit or just on and off the gas, that drives me crazy! I lit my f-250 tires on fire 3 weeks ago, what a mess that makes.