stony

heres the one i have. these pics are when it was in Amirs car. Its currently over at teh chassis shop and i cant get pictures of it but its still in the same shape as pictured. basically took it ouf the box and on the shelf. Does not come with the gages :>

i say you should be able to measure your injectors and give those specs to the guys that you bought it from and do an even exchange. Im thinking they sho0uld have asked this to start with

you either need to send it back and make sure you order a rail with the right size holes for your injectors or get injectors that fit that rail. and The bubble in the gage will not go away and its normal.

I understand how to look at those graphs ( well kinda) anyone care to post a link or do a writeup on exactly what each of the symbols are and what they represent. Some people dont understand what pressure ratio is and some turbo companies i believe dont represent there turbos the way they should when they say its a 400HP turbo. Alot of them say this but in fact to produce 400 HP youd have to run like 30PSI + .

I have one i need to get rid of.... i bought it from AMIR ( blue 240 with sr swap) I have decided to go with an aluminum dash setup. make an offer. It needs to be resanded and painted if you wanna go that route (they all do dont they?) anyone still have pics of that dash around? I will post a pic later cant do it from work

A electronic boost controller controls the waste gate via a solenoid that gets its signal from the control box that gets it signal from a electronic boost sensor. If you set it at 25 psi you get 0 PSI to the WG until the controller senses 25 PSI. With a manual boost controller all its doing is restricting the boost pressure to the actuator causing it to open later. I may be wrong on this but with an electronic boost controller spring pressure isn’t as important as it is in a manual setup. From what i have seen and experienced the EBC is allot more accurate and dependable. With manuals you will tend to see boost build slower and have some spiking problems to them.

Used to have 2 60mm merged into one 90mm pipe that went out thru one pre and one regular muffler. It sounded great.. wasnt too loud and did its job. The best thing you can do for the stock rb26 is let it breath. Open face turbos, freeflowing exhaust, SDS EMS, and stock everything else stock netted 350RWHP on mine!!!!

holy crap looks like it time to start getting some light assemblies together :>

says right in the add he only paid 160 for the pair Yet the bidding has allready gone over 160 with 2 days left. he even says where he bought them from. Dosnt make sense to me. If your going to buys something from a NEW seller at that better make sure your getting a deal first

AK-z we still need to get together sometime...i would like to check out your car.

I guess you could do it that way but you would have to somehow plug the area that the front shaft comes out of. prabably be cheaper to just go with a gtst tranny. to do it that way would be jury rigged in my opinion

I'm not sure but i think the ATI adapter maintains the rb slate. the adapter he is using (custom) sets the motor striaght up. I'm alaso pretty sure that as long as the thinkness of the adapter is maintained... that any of the adapter kits flexpates will work.

I have never really seen a 240z-280zx 2+2 setup for drift. i would think the fact that your damn near sitting on the rear wheels would make drift a little harder to learn then in a 240sx or one of the other Popular drift cars. You want my opinion.... build something else.

Welcome to the site. sounds like you and I have almost the same goals. Especially the ready for the road time. Im shooting for somewhere in the 9s to hi 8s. Anyways keep us posted and goodluck with your build.

after messing with a car that was under water up to teh dash fro 4 hours not sure id want to mess with something completely submerged especially for as long as those where. If you put any money into them it would have to be a complete strip down and dip the cars. Salt water got into every nook and cranny of those cars.

All 3 are still for sale on ebay dont think anyone has bought them yet

any one from the board. should be good for a full rebuild widebody Z I thought i had seen this one before somewhere orange Z RHD 280ZX Fairlady Datsun 1979 Aero kit Feel sorry for the guy anyone from the board?

I only know of one person in the states attemping the AWD setup. Really no info as of now on what its gonna take. I can tell you it will take alot of time and fabrication to make it work.

Yes... the car looks like it was rearended at one time. it was pulled out but instead of replacing the 1/4 the pounded it in and formed the 1/4 with BONDO!!!!! i was like WTF. I felt so stupid that i didnt catch it when i was looking at the car before i bought it. At any rate its all gone now so >>>>

here is mine after i started plucking then chiseling away at the bondo on my left 1/4. i later replaced the 1/4. The pictures explain why I was kinda pissed to find this to say the least. Im pretty sure the previous owner knew about it but didnt say anything about it. Anyways its all gone now

My RBz weighed in at 2700lbs with a 51front and 49 rear weight distro. Some suspension tweakin and that could have been over come. 400rwhp bone stock is easy but there are some internal oil feed mods that need to be done to help the rb26 survive the track. Drag racing its fine.

Looks like teh front end fits about as good as it did on the original trans am. So many other front ends that would look better.