stony

I saw the question on the brakes above and gtr compatibilty. heres what i did. Im using z31 rotors and z32 calipers. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82357 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71077 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70957 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94123 Since a common mod among the Z32 guys is gtr rotors and calipers im pretty sure with what i did above the gtr brake swap should be a bolt on upgrade. may require a shim or two here and there but should still work.

If you take the turbos off a turbo motor it will be slow as hell. it dosnt have the same compression as a NA motor would. so if you want a non turbo car get a non turbo motor.

No offense to anyone running the rb20 but it is a POS compared to the rb25 and rb26. The amount of money in machineing to get 25 piston into a 20( if its even possible) block would off set the cost of just getting a 25. I believe the biggest you can go on a rb20 is 2.2-2.3. You really cant go into a rb swap on a really tight budget. most RB swaps have the ultimate goal of HP that is generally higher and more expensive to achieve in the L series motors. yea you can get 600 Out of an L motor but not as easy as an rb26. If your gonna do the swap go with a rb26..... rb25 would be the minimum i would recommend. Otherwise i view it as a waste of time.

I went with a powerglide. it should be as or more effiecient then a 5 speed. Or so im told. it will also be lighter. Good numbers there JT. You are very close to bottem ends limits be careful. a bad batch of gas could be its demise :<

From my experience and looking at the metal from broken ujoints. the stock original u-joints are the strongest out there. if you can get a complete axle set from a junkyard that are still good I'd go with them instead of installing suposedly stronger solid spicers. Its all in the metal and the "new stronger" spicer ujoints broke alot quicker then the stock ones did for me atleast . and when they did break i compared them to the stock ones and the metal looked different. I wish i had taken some pictures of the difference.

The fenders are called works overfenders. i have a set of the rears... kinda picked them up by accident. they will cover up a 12 inch wide wheel

15 PSI is about all the rb26 Stock turbos will allow for very long.

I got one run with a 4.88 as my rearend and it actually let me get into 5th, I would say those are teh 2 extremes. 3.70-4.88 anything lower or higher then that would not be good. Im going with a 4.11 but i will be running a powerglide

OHHHHH i beg to differ there on that...... If you have the right kind it will sure as hell build boost. I does it buy cutting ignition but not cutting fuel and this results in unburnt fuel being burnt downstream in the turbo which spools it which inturn makes booste. Im sure someone will correct me if im wrong ... but thats the way i understand it. even it thats wrong I still know for sure it builds boost. I have seen it on several cars working.

anything over 350HP really needs a cage in my opinion. mine was twiting so bad before i put the cage in it the body started to crack at the seams above the rear 1.4 windows. And yes this is a chassis topic so i moved it.

Yea im pretty sure i will have to fill by opening the rear deck. firewalling the back compartment is not an option :>

Ok here's what and why I did it. I ended up going with a ford 8.8 solid rear built up for drag application with 33 spline axles and spool. Here is a little story on how this came to be. When I finished my car the first time it had a stock gtr pressure plate and a Sr20 disc in it. This worked very good and it lasted 2 years of street and track driving. I started to get greedy in my quest for the 10 sec slip and started messing with tire pressure to get off the line faster. (This was the beginning of the end.) The first thing to give up was the clutch. I replaced the clutch disc with what I was just as good as the sr20 disc ( maxima). That didn’t work. First run with that disc in it..... Well first time down the track as a matter of fact it exploded!!!. Ok I say time to upgrade to the twin plate. This is where the big problems started. Over the next year I broke 4 half shafts. I then had my struts modified to except Z31 stub shafts and had a custom set of chromoly axles made.... then I started breaking the Z31 stub shafts. After 2 of those I gave up and parted the rear-end out. I also decided to go with the auto because once I had the rear-end done I figured the r33 5 speed would become the weak link and wouldn’t last to long to track abuse and any other type of 5 speed that could handle it was too expensive. I thought long and hard about what I wanted to do with the rear-end but really couldn’t justify anymore money in the IRS as everything I could come up with pretty much involved allot of cutting and fabricating. I think if I had gone the route that Jamie is going with his struts and an automatic I may have been able to maintain the IRS but that was with the stock motor I was running. The new motor will be in the 700RWHP range and will be a low 9 sec car and I didn’t want to maintain anything that was questionable when it comes to weather or not it would hold up. Sorry for the rant back to the subject the only 6 speed awd tranny came in the r34. the rest are 5 speeds like someone said up top. I had a 3.90 in mine with the GTST 5 speed and at 7900 rpm in third gear i was doing 125MPH!!!!! It drove nice on the street. With a 3.7 you dhave a hell of a topend!!!!!!

Would anyone know if that setup (fuel cell filler and hose) would be legal for ihra or nhra tech? I like it and had a similar idea but am not sure it would be allowed.

I'm sure Hugh will chime in here eventually. he ran the Dis 4 on his sr motor in japan and loved it. it can be hooked up to SDS and pretty easy too. I hope you have plans for doing something with the drivetrain. that kinda launch is gonna break something.

i dont know who the camera man is....i kinda miss my rx7 till i think about all the motor it went thru and stew is down in florida down marks mazurowski's area.

My car didnt get really railed on any type of road course or anything but i had really stiff springs in it with sway bars installed and it fellt pretty good, as good or better then my gen 2 RX7 with aftermarket suspension

Yea i was thinking the same thing. I guess Beau and them guys tried a set of slicks once out there and it was pretty scary.

her are some pics of his car and setup. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/447636 my new motor is very similar to his except i will be running 280 dur cams and his are 272. I will be running more boost to :>

Its a google video (SORRY) 700+AWHP 1-3 gear run at misugama. click here

heres the one i have. these pics are when it was in Amirs car. Its currently over at teh chassis shop and i cant get pictures of it but its still in the same shape as pictured. basically took it ouf the box and on the shelf. Does not come with the gages :>