stony

thats AMIR's car. do a search for Posts by Demon and you should find all his posts and i believe he has spec it out before. there should also be a couple links to his fotostation gallery with tons of pics. i bought his frp dash before he built the aluminum dash for his car and installed a Stack

Halon is some funky crap. we use it on the flightline for putting out aircraft fires. had a guy use one last month on the open ramp and happen to be downwind from it (big no no ) and he got sent to the hospital for some treatment. If i understand it right it take the oxygen out of the atmosphere so if you inhale it will F you up!!!! i personally would NOT put it in a car

Not sure if i was a charter member but been here for a while

here it is

This guy is an idiot.... sorry if this has been posted allready didnt have time to look. Im coming up on 19 years in the AF and i feel like killing this **** click here to see this idiot http://www.michaelcrook.com/

Mine looks kind of the same with the 2 speed glide in it. im gonna basically either striaghten the bent arm on the pedal or flip it over and also bend the brake pedal over a littleso it more of a straight arm.

I ran my stock rb26 NA for initial rpm tuning here in alaska when i put the 680cc injectors in. Three words for ya SLOW, SLOW, SLOW!!!!!. Maybe i was used to the booste on the motor but it seemed slower then the original L28 i had in it with webers. Im assuming youd raise teh compression and stuff like that. maybe it would be better after that add some nitrouse and you may be on to something. but taking the turbos off just dosnt seem right

Im putting in a full race 2 speed powerglide with a 5000+ stall. i would not run the nissan auto if you plan on going for 350 or above HP. I will be installing a HKS fcon Vpro system. It looks like a pretty badass setup. only drawback is only HKS dealers can tune. just so happens my buddy just happens to be one :>

HMMMM i dont ever recall saying you dont have to swap the oil pan on a rb25. What i do remember is that the rb25 requires no oil pan modifications where the same pan for the rb26 requires extensive mods to fit on the motor. the rb20 from a z31 in japan will bolt right in without changing the oil pan. So in short if you bolt in a rb20 from a z31 you dont need to change the oil pan. but either the rb25 or 26 will both require a different oil pan. Sorry if i mistated that somewhere. If you could post the link from where you got that i will go back and correct it.

Call them i never got a response via email on my adapter till i called them

hmmm might want to check compression if thats the case. you more then likely had soe stuff go thru the engine. Look at the turbine wheel if it has nicks on it then something did go thru.

no just coming on business

video?

No you cant you will have to make a custom manifold as the stud pattern between the rb25 and rb26 are different. and for that matter the rb26 head is not a bolt on swap either.

I ran a bosche 600HP inline pump with no surge tank with a modified pickup in the stock tank. i could not run at the track with less then a 1/4 tank due to fuel sloshing to the back of the tank on launch. it would fall on its nose in 2nd gear. I installed a cell with -8 connections in teh rear of the tank with foam and never had the problem again. It was fine on the street with the stock tank. I plan on running the same cell (summit) with the new tuned rb26 but will have to go with a different pump. Any suggestions by the way. It will be tuned out to a final Hp of aroung 650-700RWHP. and obviously a 600HP pump wont cut it.

Sorry couldnt resist.. been a while since i have able to use those GIFS :>

Well i see everyone else is making some progress i thought id turn in my report. Axles are ordered... this will complete the rearend and should be assembled by memorial day. the rearend is in the car but have not ordered shocks. waiting on the final weight of the car to do that. Car should be off the chassis table by friday and by memorial day be working on tin work. Still have a bunch left to do on it but at least its moving forward now

i need to be able to drive it 35 minutes out to the track at highway speeds. to and from work now and again during the summer and not have any issues. The dyno went verticle on torque and HP at 5500 RPM. my expeience (not much) say that under real street loads booste will kickin 500rpm and maybe lower then it does on the dyno. So as long as i can build booste off the line a 5000 srall should work well and be somewhat streetable.

mine was vented with a -4 fitting and line to atmosphere, strapped to the point that it was still a little loose. it didnt cave in on itself it just sagged a little bit in the center. Will still use it but if you can afford it id still go with some sort of alum cell.

500kw on the street,,,, not too sure they would hold that on a prepped track. I think your asking about the tranny mount that comes in the JTR kit??? if it comes with one and you use it to mount a TH350 then mount the rb26/25/20 (all teh same adapter) to teh tranny you would more then likely need custom mounts for the motor. As for the glide. the only reason im running one is to maximize the hp output to the rear wheels. Its light, requires less power to turn ect ect. But in my application with a 5000+ stall driving on teh street will require a huge tranny cooler to keep temps down.

standard kit turbo

If i buy another one it will be a aluminum cell. all teh plastic ones tend to cave in on themselves.

Here is how i remember it..... one line comes from the block to the filter block the oil goes thru the filter then out to the cooler. the oil goes thru the cooler then back to the filter block. it goes striaght thru the filter block then back to the engine block. I have the stuff out in the garage i will go look at it later and let you know if that was right flow pattern.

Here is a pic of mine it is a combo cooler/relocator with fitting for oil pressure and temp gages. these kits are real common in japan and i believe the oil cooler kit to be around 300 and teh relocator to be another 200 or so. give matt a yell he may be able to hook you up. basically you remove the main adapter on teh motor and install the one for the kit. Its a bolt on install and real easy.