stony

Who dosnt!!!!! would be quicker Once my backhalve is complete i plan on running a single 4 inch pipe out in front of the rear tire on teh driver side. should get rid of it i hope

click here for numerous engines on ebay

from what i have seen the turbos would need to be repositioned. they would not clear the strut towers. BTW not sure if it means anything but if you look thru teh feedback of teh seller this motor was sold once allready?????

I particularly like the last video. That is a 5K launch with lots of wheels spin. I love the sound of the RB26. those where the days when i wasnt breaking anything and all was good. Drag radials with 35 PSI got me mid 1.6-1.7 60 foots.

here's a couple more that were successful in getting down the track Click here to see Video Best MPH here Click here to see Video Somebody thinks im sandbaggin :> Click here to see Video

Kinda bored so i dug up some old video and uplaoded to streetfire anyways here is my best MPH run... almost 128 MPH on a weak 2.0 60 foot Click here to see Video

Do not go with the AWD tranny unlees you plan on cutting a big hole in the floor to accomadate the transfer case. the shifter is in the same position i believe as the r33 gtst 5 speed. If getting a gtst 5 speed is an issue Castlemine rod shop in austrailia makes an adate to fit just about any stateside tranny you can think of. google castlemine rod shop fro the URL.

I may be wrong but the stiffer the spring the less squat you will have and this will also transfer more of a load on to all of the weak parts. I had 500LB springs on the rear of mine with a stock gtr clutch and hi air press in the tires. got lots of tire spin ( still managed a couple 1.6 60 ft times) and that really was the only thing that saved mine rearend for a year plus. Once i replaced the clutch with a more heavy duty unit and messed with tire pressures to get more traction my rearend started to break. first u joints, so i upgraged to custom cromoly cv axles then it moved to stub shafts. i modded the strut to accept Z31 (larger) stubs and still broke these. I gave up and went solid rear end :> only way to fix IMHO Stony

The research I did on the 8.8 before i decided to go with it is that it will hold what ever i can throw at it. Of course it's fully welded and braced with 33 spline axles, a spool and a heavy duty diff cover with cap screws. This same type rearend I have seen in full body mustangs running in the 8s. The 8.8 robs less power then the 9 inch.....and when it comes to the Z application... well at least mine it was allot easier and left me with more tune ability then the 9 inch. The housing on the nine inch would have put the 4 link bars out wider limiting.... in the end..... My leg room in the car. As for getting the front wheel off the ground with the IRS....From experience....the r200, cv axles, and stub shafts are your weak link when it comes to big power. if your running a clutch that will make it worse. At least an auto will somewhat load the rear-end and not be such a sudden shock. At any rate if your going to invest the money to go that fast put a solid rearend in the car it will save you money in the long run. Unless someone comes up with a strut housing that will accommodate 33 spline axles/stubs and an r230 or bigger diff. Just my 2 cents

Well crap i forgot all about this thread.... went and came back allready. will be back down in sept and then again for 3 weeks in jan-feb timeframe. went out to the track twice once to the strip and once to the bullring. Saw a top fueler getting licensed... that was awesome.

Well Chassis is all welded up... all that is left is the tin work. Its about 30% done to this point. dont have any new pics just thought I'd update this thread. GOD DAMN ITS TAKING A LONG TIME!!!!!!! IS it worth it? You guys tell me Im starting to get REAL impatient with this. Hopefully this will kind of cool me down a bit. As most of you know my car has been under the knife getting a full up round tube chromoly chassis built (pics above). This coming February will be the 2 year mark of the drop off date. I was quoted a certain amount of money and that the car would be done in 3-6 months… for sure by the end of that years season ( 9 months) well Its still not done. I have been extremely patient as I thought I was getting a great deal… somewhat of a sponsorship… Here’s what its getting Full chromoly chassis. ( floor and trans tunnel removed from firewall back) Custom aluminum dash 2 racing seats A race built 2 speed glide with transbrake A Ford 8.8 (pics above) with 33 spine shafts, spool, gears, and willwood brakes, ( all new) The chassis will be certified and when it finally makes it on the track this guy is going to license me :> All this for around 7500.00 the converter will be extra when and if we ever make it there. It also includes all the little stuff like notching the strut tower to clear the huge t-88 (hits pretty hard the way the motor sits in it now) As far as i can tell im getting a pretty good deal..... i have been getting told lately stuff like you need to call the cops and go get your car before something happens.... stuff like that. What do you guys think.... hold out and get the car fininshed... or call it quites suck up my losses and finish myself ( would envolve getting a TIG and actually learning how to weld :>)

Japan yahoo auction keeps the add alive if there are bids in the last 5 minutes or so. If a bid happens say with 20 seconds to go the time remaining resets itself to 10 minutes. I didnt know this till i thought id be clever and have a bid thrown in at the last second. The auction lasted like another hour....It was kinda lame. Thanks for the schooling on EBAY i was not aware there were programsx to place bids like that

you could maybe get a 5 K swap done if you did everything yourself and got a good motor with no problems for very cheap but its more like 10K that would include most of the chassis mods needed to support the higher HP. rb26 = 15k MINIMUM

Ok 2 posts and you’re stirring things up. Thanks for at least researching a tad before posting. You said it yourself. The swap of any RB into a 280 zx is not documented.. Why you ask? I don’t know anyone in the US that has completed it yet. Have seen it many times in Japan. So to answer your question it can be done. Here are my recommendations. #1 the ZX came with an L motor. The Block size is very close to the same as an rb block. #2 the motor mounts the same way as the 240 so the rear sump will be a must and all the 240 swap info applies when it comes to mounting the motor. #3 since you have one, measure the wheel base of the zx and compare to a 240-280. If it’s longer you will need a longer driveshaft therefore one out of the r33 wont work. I did my swap on hearsay and rumors. Most of which were true. But I didn’t know it till I was done. Do the swap, document it, then you can answer all the questions. Till then you will continue to get answers from the “smart “people that have completed the swap in an older Z car. Are you in the US or overseas? I completed mine in Japan and really give a lot of credit to the guys doing it in the states. If I had my Z here in the states when I did the swap I would have gone Buick or Toyota. If you do not have a shop/garage/or space to do this on your own and your not rich (your in the military so I know you can’t be too rich :> I am too) I would not do this swap. A lot of custom fabrication needs to be done and paying someone to do it all will double the price of the swap.

Matt are the injectors you are talking about 100lb hi impedance injectors? where did you see them at? very interested

mine was a 260, i used a r33 5 speed (RWD) and the front half of the driveshaft that was attached to that tranny. I believe that teh 240 and 280 z should all be pretty close. you only need the diff flange that came with the driveshaft you aquire. the tranny mount is going to be custom. No way around that. all the part numbers you need to know are in this forum just have to spend some time looking arpound and using the search. thanks Clint

Matt, do you know if anyone has video of that wreck yet?

BTW that is not the side of the track that is the end of the track!!!!!! The fast guys have to slam on the brakes and turn to the right to avoid hitting it. I guess the word is his line lock failed and he lost his brakes... That was a low to mid 10 sec car!!!!

sent......Its 23 meg so hope you dont have any limits on your email.

The 150 meter track in okinawa was getting faster and faster cars. then this gtr had a line lock failure and lost its brakes combined with the throtle stuck wide open. There were some videos posted a while back of cars running on this track. Its 150M from start to finish and like less then 100M shutdown. pretty scary with fast cars

i believe i have one on the yahoo forum in one of the folders. If you need an entire manual i can email it.

Are the splitfire coil packs for the rb motors any better then stock. or are they just a difffernt color with a splitfire logo?

I ran SDS on my old motor which eliminated the COP things. My new motor was run in okinawa where summer temps sopmetimes exceed 90 degrees. to tell you the truth this is the first time i have ever heard of heat killing the coils. i imagine it couldnt hurt venting the cover... i just think the motor looks way to cool with it installed

I may be wrong but im pretty sure the R34 motor came stock with teh cover and teh GTR emblem. this is pre r-24 cover. here is a asetup with a custom after maket emblem here is a set of NUR spec covers, judging by the price they are replicas and not the real thing. I dont know that there is any difference from real to fake other then the real ones are usually like 5-600 bucks. these are stock color and emblem to my knowledge there was never a blue color valve cover setup that was stock./ Stock r-34 motor. R-32 adn R-33 all came looking like this stock. If anyone would like to save these pics do so now... these are yahoo auction linke and they wont last for long. i will do it later no time now....