stony

77 long block with 75 intake manifold. The old block didn't have the inserts in the exhaust ports the new long block does. do i need to use the 77 intake?

I'm leaning towards i have something that is not hooked up correctly. Car idled fine before the headgasket. all i did was swap the long block with my intake.

BTW this is a 77 280z with efi. i swapped the long-block out and used my intake and exhaust. ran good in old car and my old setup ran good until head-gasket blew. is there a sensor that will cause this issue?

Thats what I thought. Sprayed entire intake down even sprayed in the intake just to be sure. The only time the rpm rose was when I shot it in the intake. Are there any wires that I could have mixed up to cause this?

I just got done swapping my motor in my 280 Z. Same motor from one car to the next swap intake manifold exhaust manifold other than that its just a new long block. When I started it up it does not want to idle below 2000 rpm. I'm figuring I have a wire hooked up backwards or something but I can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated

I have a parts car I will be picking up tomorrow. Link in parts for sale

Yea me to. Cant wait to get it up and running.

Why not just go with a larger stud or bolt? Found a good long black used. just gonna swap it out. HG is gone also.

Dont have much experience with rebuilding L motors. I discovered that i have a head bolt that is stripped. How hard is it to repair this? I'm guessing it will just be cheaper to find a used long block??

Got everything back from ATI. converter restalled and rebuilt, damper has timing marks now....

Agreed, Best way to go is get it out of a running clip. 9 times out of ten when you get it from japan it has come out of a wrecked car. if it was a front hit there is a good chance the water pump tab on the black will be broken off. Howlermonkey the conversation about timing was a legit conversation... i weeded most of it out because even though it was accurate it wasn't related to the problem as a whole in this thread. The issues I had and the stuff that V went thru are pretty much everything that could go wrong with the cas drive gear replacement and hopefully will prevent any excessive downtime for anybody in the future.

When I wrote this thread there were absolutely NO swap kits. Nowadays there are several. This was a parts listing you could go or get from Japanese junkyards and have a relatively drop in swap. the only thing I really had to make was the trans mount. My method also put the motor more forward then todays kits. BUT it was still a 50/50 balance. So yea kinda dated info. If I was going to do it again I'd buy the stuff that's in the kits now.

Hope you don't mind but I thinned out your thread and merged it with mine that is stickied. I think this is good info for all that consider doing this.

You have also confirmed that when people say just line the teeth up and put the cas sensor on are wrong. without the half moon in there the cas gear chatters on the drive gear causing pretty big variations in timing. This would explain why my timing while on the dyno would just drop off on the dyno. also would explain why my torque and power curve were never really smooth. at any rate glad you got it figured out.... I never though about notching the cas sensor like that to get the timing back to where it needs to be. Way to think out of the box ;>

Agreed. especially when using a stock ecu where you cant set the timing. I'm using the aem... in fact when we were on the dyno with my timing set at where i thought it was supposed to be, i had to advance the timing just to got it to go past 5000rpm. SO it was way WAY more retarded then we thought.

2. I rebuild the engine but in stock form (piston-rods) are stock. My injectors are stock - how much power the stockinjector can handle? I have no problem buying a 750cc or 800cc injector if I need to. 3. I will use a single turbo setup (Garrett T-72) & I bought an apexi powerFC. My rear end still the stock R200 but withQUAIFE ATB, will the R200 can support 350 & up hp ? #2 stock injectors will be good for about 350 rwhp. i made 400 rwhp with 660cc s and 15 lbs on stock turbos. #3 street driving will be fine. drag racing with a good clutch will grenade half shafts and axles on sticky tires. i would highly recommend the techno tuning toys rear end, with a gtr diff and axles.

Mine is a little different from a stock harness but yes its in there. I also got the injector harness. Here is what my stock harness looked like.

List your harness on EBAY. buy the wiring specialties harness. it will save you in the long run. They did mine and i loved it!!!! all brand new wires and connectors. And they are the easy clip connectors not those POS ones that you need 3 hands to get off.

NO it was on E85. it made 650ish on 110 at 30 psi several years ago. Sure thing flatrate send me the turbo and I will put it on ;>

Not selling anymore ;> Had a wild hair about doing a 1uz. IM OVER IT NOW ;> At any rate Yea... 18 psi will be 30-35 timing is very VERY safe. we plan on getting aggressive now that we are running E85. will need to add another fuel pump and 2000cc injectors soon.

Talked with ATI on the phone today and they were able to get some more out of my converter. Its on its way back now. Cant wait to get it back together and see how it does.

If you look at the diff you will see its not on center. the shorter one goes to the side that sticks out further. I believe its the left side.

Holw cow... One huge turbo wasn't enough??? JK looks great

I'd be interested in a manifold that positions the turbo as pictured but all the way at the front of the engine. rb26 + huge Turbo +_ s30 chassis = hole in hood. I'd like to see one made that sits the turbo a little lower also.

Planned on making my own just want stockers to use as an example.