stony

Does anyone have the stock hard lines lying around they want to get rid of. I need everything from the master cylinder to the front brakes.

Manifold was made in japan. Custom. Its just a stock manifold that was cut off at the runners and a new single throttle body plenum welded on.

ATI does it for 40 bux.

Not sure if you can call it progress but…. Removed the converter for one last attempt at a stall. Going balls to the wall with a 7+K stall and see if that helps with getting the turbo to spool. Have lots of wiring cleaning up to do here. Also removed ATI damper to get timing marks laser cut. Yea the old ones didn’t come with timing marks WTF??? Also redid the install on the NOS solenoids and nozzle and installed them under the manifold so I don’t have that huge mess on top. Its all underneath now!! Before After Also redid some wiring behind the dash so removing the dash doesn’t involve snipping wires.

Why not??? Got lots of support local for parts... at any rate I do not think anyone will even come close to what i think i should get for the setup anyways.

Thinking about going 2jz.... what does everyone think a good price for a 750+hp rb would be? Would be complete turnkey minus intercooler, electronics, engine harness, and trans... but would include the ati power glide swap stuff (converter, and midplate.)

Umm you sure its ok to rotate that car like that with all that rust in the frame area?

Thanks for the info. I just switched to a electric fan. The 3 row champion will cool my bone stock setup just fine with a 14 inch fan.

This is about the closest thread i could find without making a new thread to ask the question. from info posted here the tranny mount between the 4 and 5 speed are the same? So i go and order one do i need to specify 4 or 5 speed?

well from this pic it looks like less then an inch.

So how do I tell if its a ZX fan or z fan? I'd swear I have a good inch or so of clearance.

Anyone ever have a fan clutch go bad where it allows the fan to wobble enough to take out the radiator?

Original setup had 15x10 wheels with 275x50x15 bfg dr.

Far as I can tell,, better!!

Dang wonder why the big flux in prices. anyways new shiny stuff ;> bolted right in no issues.

I dont know how it did it but my fan got into my radiator. Not sure if it was old damage that finally sprung a leak but when it actually let go i was just tooling around town and started seeing steam from under the hood. Just recieved me new aluminum stock replacement. once installed i will take some pics. it looks like it matches the stocker exactly. I paid 182 for mine. not sure why its showing 482 now??? http://www.ebay.com/itm/181062815279#ht_4223wt_1097

Other thing to consider is what have you driven before. If you have never driven anything with 700HP I wouldn't jump right to it. When I got my Z on the road 390-400 was just fine.... but after a while I got used to it and wanted more. At this point I knew how the car would react in different situations ect ect. I would have probably killed myself if I had jumped into a 700 hp turbo Z for the first time ;>

My original setup had 390 RWHP with stock turbos and 15PSI. it ran a best of 11.1 @ 127 MPH before I started breaking rearend parts. On the street not much could beat it. I had several scary loss of traction episodes in second and 3rd gear. In a z anything over 500 RWHP is getting to the point of useless power as not many if at all tires will stick to the road. My current setup is 600+ at 18PSI and I'm running a solid rear axle with 30 inch MT streets. in this video you can see right before I shift my rpms go up fast. that's the tires breaking loose. At the track I shift at 9500K. the shift in this video is about 7K right after boost comes on. I wouldnt dare try 9500 on the street. http://youtu.be/6BvgkTuzgfs

This is the correct answer. The stock tank will work ok as long as tank level is above 1/2. if you get below 1/2 you will start to have issues like described above. Its not the size of the line or the pickup. The stock stuff will support a good amount of HP. The issue is fuel sloshing around below 1/2 tanks and the pickup sucking air. Even if its just for a fraction of a second you will feel it and will more then likely fall on its nose ( I know from experience) I did a fuel cell in my original setup and it solved the problem. A surge tank will also do the trick. Just because 1 or 2 have not changed and had success doesn't mean you will.

I don't have a R43 motor and I have never heard of this care to post some links to what you are referencing.

Yea i hear ya. This want the first time i did a first gear pull. So i knew it would go straight. But on the other hand i didn't think about that ;>

http://youtu.be/OmlN0x2Brlw

What he said. Got them off ebay years ago. standard bulb and cant see shit at night;>

When mine ate the number one bearing and collapsed the filter, it sent bearing material throughout my motor. I used a bunch of brake cleaner cans and hi pressure air. Just sprayed thru all the galleys in as many directions as I could find till nothing but clean brake cleaner came out then pushed 80PSI air thru everything. I think I went thru 2 cases of brake cleaner doing it this way. After that I had the block and head cleaned in one of those big ass engine block washer that was heated. came out spotless, and oil looked brand new after initial break-in.

I use Mobil 20-50 synthetic.