stony

Looks great!!!

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Used the search function!!!! bringing this back from the dead since it was close but didn't for sure answer my question. I'm pretty sure that if you do the 4 to 5 speed conversion you need the 5 speed drive shaft correct? I'm currently having some vibration issues and before i go out and buy a drive shaft from a junk yard i want to make sure I get the correct one.

SO did you find what was wrong. I'm having the same issue with my bone stock 280. around 50 it starts and only vibrates under load (acceleration and deceleration). its not a tire shake. i have looked at and pried on all ujoints and all look OK with the exception of the front ujoint on the drive-shaft. but it has very minimal movement if any. Starting to get real annoying

If this had the brakes this is kinda what i'm talking about. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Skyline-GTR-R32-Engine-Jdm-RB26DETT-Engine-GTR-ENGINE-R32-RB26-T-LSD-DIFF-/271077663648?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1d7ce3a0&vxp=mtr Pull the diff, axles, and use the TTT rear conversion. Then cut out the stock Z engine bay frame rails and wide in some new rails a little wider so the sub frame bolts in. I know it would be harder then it sounds but that is about the easiest way i can think off. I was looking at some of the measurements between the z and gtr. The strut mounts are actually pretty close.

Oldie but a goodie, Also rawbrokerage.com actually sells New oem ignitors now for about the same price as a z32 ignitor.

ZTR where is this thread you mentioned? i cant find it. im comparing some measurements to see what can stay and what would have to go if i built a front clip to mount the GTR front suspension.

I have found several things here and there but was wondering if anyone has something specifically comparing front end measurements between the 280z and r32 gtr. I have been thinking allot lately how easy (or hard) it would be to build a tube chassis front clip and use the TTT rear r230 conversion to use an entire gtr drivetrain in a 280Z. Don’t really want to start another if you have enough money you can do it thread, just looking for specific measurements. My guess is new frame rails and some reinforcement to bolt in the gtr front subframe. then use wheel offset to correct any wheel track issues.

Wow thanks for the link i didnt realize they sold so much rb stuff. They even have brand new rb26 ignitors.

Well i fixed my cam and got the cas wheel swapped in the sensor. Just need my harness to get here so i can it back on the dyno

Well its a good day. I got the cam repaired and my new cas got here. I disassembled it swapped the wheel and had it back together in 30 min.

HAHA yea especially when you crack it while going by them at a stop light

Any updates on this BTW? I have been tooling this idea around in my head for a while. Every time i think about it seems like just front halving the car and picking up the mounting points for the subframe is the way to go. Basically keep as much of the stock Z engine compartment for fender mounting purposes then run a cage thru the firewall to the back of the car making it more rigid. then add the TTT rear suspension with a gtr Diff, axles and brakes. Seems easy enough... who wants to sponsor me ;>

Rb's sound SOOOOOOO much better with open wastegates!!!!

My problem is i have a midplate that pretty much blocks off anything from going under the car.

lookin good i was wondering about that monster downpipe when i saw it in a earlier post. mine is 4inch and i took it thru the firewall right behind the front wheel.

Somebody got something in the mail today!!!!

Well i got my replacement cas drive gear and installed it tonight. it wasn't quite as easy as the instructions depicted. If anyone tries this i highly suggest going with a size larger bolt then the one recommended in the instructions. I broke it in the first attempt. once i went to a my HD bolt it came right out. the one that came out of my HKS cas was a tad longer then the replacement. so when i was drilling i was really concerned i was drilling into the cam. but it turned out it was a 3-4 mm longer and when i finally realized that i finished drilling all the way thru and tapping it as the instructions stated. here is a pic of what i eventually got out. i was a little off center so it kinda destroyed the smaller part of the gear but had plenty of material in the larger pressed in part. Now just need to get my new Cas sensor and attempt the AEM cas wheel swap again

Yea i just received the new and improved overfenders and they are trash just like the first set. No amount of costumer service can make up for bad quality. Now here's the thing. ALL fiberglass parts are going to be bolt on or install without some amount of prep. but when you have to work the part to get it to fit right longer then it took to make the damn part, in my book makes them junk. Oscar if you are reading this please stop selling this junk until you figure out how to get it right.

Anyone care to comment on the effects on HP that going from a 280 dur 10.5 mm lift intake exhaust cam down to a stock r34 cams? Keep in mind i dont turn the motor with the 280 cams to their full potential as it is. Are stock cams capable of 700+WHP?

Just started understanding the instructions for the cas gear replacement. looks pretty striaghforward. going to order it in the AM. will do a writeup on how it goes. In the pics it looked like the old part coming out was threaded and the new part was not. thats what i didnt understand. The treads i saw in the pic were from the bolt that was threaded all the way thru and pushthe gear out of teh cam.

DO you have a complete set you want to get rid of? in the other thread PMCengines stated that the timing gets a little scatered without the key in there. also read online that crank timing can flux as much as 8 degrees when this key is broken!!!!! that not good at 9000rpm adn running 30 PSI ;>

Discovered my cas drive key on the intake cam broken. may explain why its been running like ass this year. anyone have a set of cams for an rb26 they want to get rid of. My set is kinda extreme 280 dur 10.5 mm lift. thinking i want to go down alittle and gain a bit more torque down low. may help with the stall also. Let me know what you have!!!

PMC< If i swap cams to a more mild cam ( currently both are 280 dur 10mm lift cams) where will i loose my power? just top end hi rpm stuff. i don't intend to turn the motor past 9500 rpm so i'm guessing it wouldn't hurt to go to a milder cam. any suggestions. i would like to gain back some torque in the lower rpm range.