iflyfast1

Thanks Ernie, I had done a search and saw that. I'm definately going to check that place out. Just wondering if there were any other recommended shops out there. Thanks

My Z is finally ready for paint. Anybody have any recommendations for a Paint shop in the Bay Area? Thanks. Tom

Been driving mine for about 2 years now. Been running good. Still needs paint and interior though.

Got mine too last night. Thanks

The spring length stays the same, so everything else being equal, the shock is going to be compressed the same. What in fact you are doing by decreasing the height of the insulator, is you are lowering the body in relation to the suspension. If you take a front insulator and move it to the back (on a post 74 Z) you will drop the rear body about an inch. If you measure the available travel of the shock before and after you will see that it remains the same with no loss in travel.

Just reread the original post. Didn't get past the mild mods and 300. Me bad. He did say 300 kw at the motor not hp. Didn't catch that... Let's see, that equats to 402 hp at the motor + 100hp nitrous at the motor so looking at probably around 430 RWHP. I'm not sure an LS6 clutch would be "toast". I guess it would depend on if he launches with nitrous or kicks it in some time later. But then again, I prefer to have the clutch be the weak link in the system. I'd much rather replace a clutch than a transmission or rearend

The problem with the camber plates I've found, is that you have to go to coilovers. I'm happy with the Tokico springs I have now, but I would just like to lower it another 1/2 to 3/4" without losing any travel. I may end up making some plates like Tom Holt did if I don't find anything else commercially available.

Here's the link to the other site discussing the stock insulator mod: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=582517&t=582517 Unfortunately no pictures...

I read somewhere on another site a while back that the stock mounts can be modified by heating the mount and removing/modifying the center section and then reinstalling. No pictures were included so I don't know if this is possible. This is an option I'm considering but I have yet to hear if someone has tried these: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC08 They are supposed to lower post 74 Z's by 3/4", are used with stock springs, and you get some camber adjustment.

I've been running the LS6 clutch with my stock motor for some time now with no problems.

I used the LT1350 harness, and if I had to do it again I would have used someone else. After I installed the harness, I found out the he reversed the O2 sensors on one side. In other words, he wired the O2 Sim into the front O2 sensor and left the rear plug on. Unfortunately, his sims are hard wired in so I got to cut and paste. The key here is they wouldn't take the harness back, and I had to fix their mistake. He had also told me on the phone before the purchase that they test all harness on a test stand. Not sure how the harness passed with sims wired up backwards! Also, shortly after the install, the rear sim on the other side failed so now it's throwing a code. They also did not have a wire pulled for the clutch switch (mines a 6spd), so the ECU is also throwing a code for that. On the positive side, they did turn the harness quick. I think it took less than two weeks, although I would have gladly waited longer for a properly modified harness. I plan to have the codes deleted when I get the car dyno tuned but that won't be until after I get new heads and a cam (probably this winter). My recommendation would be to spend a little extra money and have it done right and steer clear of the hackers.

I went out and measured the strut mount insulators on my late 260z. The back measures 3.75" and the front measures 2.75". It appears to me that the front mounts on a 260/280Z are the same as a 240Z. Is this not correct? So one could install the 240Z mounts on the back to get a 1" drop but how do you get the same amount of drop on the front? I wonder if the stock front mounts could be moded to get a corresponding drop. Anybody seen this done?

I have replaced everything that can wear except the inner tie rod ends (poly bushings, wheel bearings, ball joints, outer tie rods, shocks, springs, brakes etc., etc., etc.). I didn't touch the steering rack at all since I had hoped to replace the rack with a new WRX unit. I was told when I got an alignment that the inner tie rods are worn. I think I'll just buy the inner tie rod ends and 240Z rack bushings. I'll have the bushings turned down at a local machine shop. I'm hoping the rest of the rack is in good shape since the car had pretty low miles when I bought it. If not, I may just replace it with a 240Z rack since parts are still available. Good information on this post though.

Sam I've been watching this thread with a lot of interest. My biggest complaint with my Z right now is the sloppy steering. I didn't address it when I was rebuilding the suspension because I figured I would change the rack out for a WRX unit. It doesn't look like anybody has come up with a good solution though especially for the guys running an LS1. Are you still looking at possibly putting together a kit? I would be interested. Also, if your still looking at a group buy for the seals, count me in.

I'll see if I can find the wire (it's getting pretty tight under the dash), and hook up a switch if not I'll get it edited out. Are you using Synergy in Fremont? Do you think it's worth getting a tune on a stock motor? Things are going good. Bought a house last year, and I've been pretty busy doing honeydo's. The Z's another story. I've got so many things left to do even though it's a driver. The engine swap was actually the easiest part! I was suprised that after sitting six months the motor started instantly. The Vintage AC is another story though. I lost all my charge. Turns out that when I had the hoses crimped locally, they used the wrong crimp tool Now I have to pull all the hoses and have them remade somewhere else. Getting to the ones under the dash without pulling the dash is going to be a real PITA I see you have a new project. How's your swap going in the RX7??? I sure wish I would have never sold mine. That was the best car I ever owned. Can't imagine what it'll be like with a stroked LS2

Finaly started driving the LS1 Z again. It's been in storage for a while. Had too many other things that had higher priority. Car has been running great but I'm getting a P0704 code. I never hooked up a switch to the clutch pedal. Did you guys use a switch on the pedal or did you have it programmed out of the ECU? Is the switch only used to prevent starting when the clutch is depressed or does it have some other function? I'm using the stock harness. Thanks

Davy, Put me down for a set for a late 260Z. Also, if you would like to test fit the 240Z panels on my car to see if they'll fit a late 260Z/280Z or would like to see some door panels up close, let me know (I don't want to part with the set I have though).

"I had a hard time deciding on what color to go before painting the car.I was going with laguna seca blue or red.I had even a harder time picking the red that its on now.There are tons of codes for red,I like how this one tends to change a little during the day." Nice install, nice paint. Who painted the car?

11.392!!! Wow. Good Job, Joey. You're getting me fired up to start driving mine again. I drove mine about 500 miles and put it in storage (about 3 months ago). Too many honey do's since I moved, and no room for a car in the garage. Maybe I need to have a garage sale this weekend and make room for the car...

A word of caution... I tried to have my Camaro aluminum driveshaft shortened and they couldn't weld it (Drive Line Service, San Jose). They said it was some wierd alloy. And they make custom aluminum drive shafts. I ended up having a custom drive shaft made (probably a lot stronger too)

I mounted mine in the fender well on the drivers side. I made a custom tank out of 4" aluminum tubing and welded some 1/4" aluminum plate for the ends. I taped the ends for fittings. I was able to mount the the efi fuel pump below the sump. I then closed up the fenderwell behind the tire using some ABS sheet and aluminum angle to shield the installation from water/rocks. Everything is now out-of-sight.

Hey Joey, He charged me $575 complete which was very reasonable I thought especially after seeing the work. He also installed a heat shield over the left pipe right behind the header to shield the starter somewhat. Tom

I've seen several people talk about Miata mirrors over the past year or so but I can't remember where. Anybody have a pic of the Miata mirrors installed? Also, PParaska, I like the look of the Tercel mirrors. Price seems very reasonable too.