Silent

jeff. flip your IC pipe around.

well, it seems i have a lovely brake issue on the 240. surprise i know. new pads all the way around. new master. original booster. no pedal. stops..... eventually. pulled the check valve out last night. blew thru both sides of it. no more checkin from the check valve. im thinking the check valve is shot, obviously. i really don't feel the need to drop 400 bucks on a booster if it's a simple little 5 dollar check valve. any bright idea's?

i have used a narrow band before on my pervious 280z. i have access to a wideband at free will, so it will benefit me more to use the wideband for more precise needle building. right now, it runs peachy as it sits. when the new motor goes in i'll be using the wideband to set the needles.

dunno, i might take it out on the road and see what it does at speed instead of 25 mph around a neighborhood

sounds like a mid 11 second car to me

derrrrrrrrrrrrr im gun go eat some paste now =

since i left the z world 3 years ago i have been dealing with 9.5:1 c/r and 19 psi hence my freak out when i saw the afr. lean is mean, but damn! i do however agree on the tires. i eat them every 6 months.

it pulls to 4k. then i just shift. i don't have plates on the car right now so im not pushing my luck. once i redo the rear brakes i will be taking it on a spiritied run. so far it revs so much better, a lot cleaner and no struggling. i might set the valves this weekend as well

adding fuel will cause the idle to drop. so you will have to re-sync the carbs. or at least the off idle side of it you will.

the thing that told me you were lean is you have the chokes on and it runs fine. this is the issue.

finger problems in the morning doh! "im surprised it didn't blow itself to bits"

hesitates when you give it throttle eh? pull a plug. add fuel. rise. ??? profit!

finally caved in and put a pertronix in there. pulled the choke cable maybe a 1/4 inch. hit the key. fired instantly. reved so much smoother and faster now. looking at the points, they were shot. somehow in this swap i lost my water temp gauge. doh! old brittle wires. ghaaaaaaaa

im surprised it blow itself to bits.

leave the crank case breather alone. pul everything back off. make sure everything is flat, and nice and shiney without any silicone goo anywhere on the mating surfaces. put a new intake/exhaust gasket on it.

the plugs were nuked. bad. changed them out last night. changed the needles out. the sm's were just way to much for the little 2.4 liter. set the fuel mixture. the idles so much smoother now and runs good as well. it seems this car was never in any sort of "to0n", even we a friend and i brought it back from cali 3 years ago. it will half ass get out of it's own way now. on the right track it seems. i think it stems from me working with a laptop of my ss for the past year that threw me way off base of what i remembered from when i had my 280. it's all comming back to me now. slowly. like, short bus slow.

points will be gone this weekend. don't have the desire to mess with it. new plugs goin in tonight. wideband going on it this weekend to get the sucker dialed in right. you get rid of your sig, and i'll get rid of mine!

well. put my modded 3 screws on it last night. did all the crap again. part throttle is freakin amazing. once it goes wot it struggles. bad. im thinking it's lean. whats weird is, this is with sm needles. it pulls it's little buns off at part throttle. fuel filter is new. checking the timing tonight. re-syncing the carbs. not used to points, so this should be fun. cap and rotor are brand new

aw c'mon!

maybe it's just me, being used to a 300 whp cobalt and zingin it to 8k without any fuss. or the fact it's a bone stock l24 with who knows how many miles on it's anemic nature by todays standards. short story. yesterday i change out the intake/manifold gasket, surface the intake manifolds to get the years of crap off them, clean the carbs. stick it all back together. jump in it. fire it up. take it for a quick spin. it runs just fine at part throttle. go wot in first or second, no balls. it feels like it's done by 4k rpms. the only thing added many moons ago was a header. i have not checked the timing in it, just synced the carbs and set the afr on em. did a quick sea foam to it. nothing major. my thinking is it should at least pull to 5500 without much of a fuss. it doesn't. it feels like im pushing the crap out of it and doesn't want to do anything. is there something im missing here? maye a hidden secret somewhere to help out in the power area? hell im thinking of sticking my modded 3 screw su's off my 3.1 on there to experiement in some way of getting more top end out of it. also thought about sticking the 260 spacers on there to move the curve up a tad. any idea's?

a crude way of doing it is take the cap off, pull one, or two of the pins out of it. unplug an injector or two and see what happens. or put an msd box behind the glove box. set the rpm limit to 3k

last month. pay attention to the cobalt forums goober!

this isn't my first rodeo with an n/a su motor. i had a 3.1 with a stock head, mild cam and modded su's dunno. just thinking out side of the perverbial box

if im thinking right. which im probably not. a 1:1 fpr would help in this area, along with the surge tank on the end of the carbs. think igloo for vorteched carbed v8's. same principle. different execution

like i said, just kicking the idea around right now. i just don't have a desire to run race gas all the time to keep it together. water injection doesn't bother me at all. i have it on my daily driver right now, it is pushing the limits of 91 octane as it is.