DaleMX

Mine is melted in several places too. That plus about half of the wires have been tapped into by means of stripping and electrical tape. I need to replace mine.

I have not found anything. You may have to make one.

Yea, I get mixed up with the connectors. I'll see if I can find the right one.

At the bottom of the page. http://s2.pegasusautoracing.com/076.pdf

My 280 did the same thing. It turned out that the wire coming from the switch was broken somewere in the harness. I ended up running a wire from the steering colum to the engine bay and connecting it there.

I like the link of the day. Fold me up. http://www.dumplink.com/redirect/?id=256

Sounds like fun, but if it were me I'd can the electronics and just buy roll around tool boxs. I think alot of lighting would be in order, and lots of power plugs. Oh yea, I vote for epoxy too!

That's the way mine is on my 78.

I thought maybe he would mount from the rear and go "Block that Punt".

Man! You are there dude!

Ah, Grand Rapids. I lived in Charlevoix for a couple of years but had to get away from the cold wind and deep snow. With the stock heads it should be in the 375-400 RWHP range. With heads it could get 400-440. If I cant work out the headers then I'll take the cam down a few notches, put on the heads and hope for 375. I like the idea of the computer mounting. I saved the frame for it and I'll look at putting it inside the car for sure. I had speartech make the harness and add 6 inchs to the computer leads so I would have plenty of room for it. I know that LT1 is hell on wheels too! With a good tune and good exhaust you should be flying. Good luck, I know your excited now that your real close. I started disassembly today. I have taken a bunch of pics. I was going to follow Johns instructions but the order of things doesn't suit me. I'll document what I did and email it to him to review.

Oh well, the engine in my 280Z (stock) is toast. That means I have to start my LS1 swap early. I really hate working in the cold so I had planned on just driving it through the winter and starting in the spring. Now I need the car so out with the old, and in with the overpowered. The LS1/T56 is about ready to go it just needs the water pump installed, and I need to edit the computer. The engine is a 99 and has a TR230 cam, a LS6 intake, 30 lb. injectors, and a ported TB. I had an ASA racing shop do a valve job and the stock heads have CC 918 springs and CC titanium retainers. The stock rockers have been replaced with Yella Terras. I have a set of ported 5.3 heads that are on order but wont be here for a while so I’ll run with the heads I have until next summer. I can tell that headers are going to be a big problem. I really need 1 ¾†long tubes and a 2 ½†X pipe to take advantage of the cam. The body is solid but has no subframe connectors. I am planning on running the car with just a rollbar and a front strut bar until next summer. The rear is a stock R200, but I have a clutch style LSD in the basement that will go in when I do the subframe connectors. What have I gotten myself into! I always bite off more than I can chew.

Hummm, mine is doing this now also. I replaced the water pump today and it still sounds like squeeking and scraping coming from the front of the engine. I assume it's either the timing chain or a bearing got spun. I'm gonna give up on the 280 engine and go ahead with my swap. I really didn't want to do it during the fall and winter, I hate the cold.

She's want to get stapled, that is soooo obvious.

Ha, maybe it's 42! (Deep Thought)

38

That's not my idea of a garage, and that lift is ok I guess but suspension work is hard to do when the car is supported by the wheels. Those video games would have to go, as would the video crap. The last thing I need when working on my car is a distraction of some sort. Somebody has too much money and hires someone to work on their cars.

I get up at 4:00 AM EST, so I hit the hay between 8:30 and 9:00. How about starting a little earlier like at 7:30.

That's good advice. Dont forget the computer conections. From you pics it looks like liquid could collect there. Your overheating might be air trapped in the heads, pull the vent tube by the TB and purge the system. That tube should be running to the radiator intake to keep the air out of the system.

If your gonna go ford, then get the 8.8 traction lock rear out of a late model cobra (it's got disk's) and have it shortened. It's alot easier to work on the 8.8 since the rear cover comes off with a few bolts. Oh, and it's quite stout too. Dale

Actually you really did beter by finding these problems parked in a garage than on the interstate 20 miles from home. If you were at speed you might not have noticed the steam and really trashed the block and heads (aluminum warps when it gets over heated). Every cloud has a silver, well you know. Consider youself lucky and may the HybridZ force be with you, Dale

Oh, nobody here would do that! (post anyway!)

Try replacing the bulb (filament might be broken and touching the other filament). Then check everything else if that doesnt work.

I think that can be welded shut. You might be able to have it done on the car if you can clean the heck out of it at the welding shop. Try to avoid droping the pan. The oil pan on an LS1 is a structrual item and must be aligned when replaced. Also the 2 smaller bolts that hold it on in the back torque at a much lower level then the others do (easy to twist off). Get a service manual if you dont have one, it's a must when working on a LS1. I have a 99 LS1 manual here at the house so if you need some procedures let me know and I'll look them up for you. daleici@bellsouth.net Dale

They offer better control of harmonics and the design allows higher lifts from a given wire dia. Here's some info from the CC site. http://www.compcams.com/information/whatsnew/NewsDetails.asp?ListHistoryID=-1373872784 Dale