DaleMX

Clean the holes out completely so the stud will screw in cleanly to the bottom. If the hole is blind then put moly lube (for most applications) or locktite on the threads and screw them in finger tight. If the hole goes into a water jacket you must use a sealer instead of grease or locktite. Put your head on then coat the washer and nut and exposed threads with moly lube and torque it down. Most stud kits come with complete instructions and lube. Sealer and locktite you gotta provide. I use the moly lube from ARP and their stud kits. If you use locktite you must torque to completion before it sets up. The torque amount is reduced a bit when using moly. My heads usually go a 75 to 80 lbs, but with the moly you hit them at 65 lbs.

IT comes with lights that wire to the stock harness.

Might as well haul me off to jail now as I have been an offender for 30 years. But I'll bet the LS1 runs alot cleaner than the L28 I took out of there. Anyway in 78 the 280Z had no smog pump, no converter. Just a vapor can and egr. I kept the vapor can, so I guess I'll put the egr pipe in to please the feds.

O2 bungs are no problem for me, I was just wondering. I have to weld in another one anyway for the wideband. For what its worth O2 sensors are sensitive to moisture and should be angled to avoid condensation accumulation. Emissions are of no concern here in Georgia on a 78'. I got my order for the coated headers in a little bit ago and should have them next week.

Just so we all know, do the headers have O2 bungs? What is the collector size? Do the headers have the hookups for egr and air?

I ready for a set, I'll call this morning.

I put in 2 poorly centered green LED’s for turnsignals. Oops, well I guess I could drill the holes out larger and use a couple of bushings to center it up. I’ll try it like this first and see if it bothers me. http://www.circuitflex.com/ProComp4.jpg Here’s the speedometer. I still have to drill a hole in the plastic and extend the button. I also will be installing a brake LED and a high beam LED, better centered I hope. http://www.circuitflex.com/ProComp5.jpg Here are the LED’s I used. They have the resistor built in for 12 volt use. http://www.circuitflex.com/ProComp6.jpg I mounted the workings onto the case upside down to drill the poorly centered holes. I did pilot the holes, but used a crappy bit the finish with and it walked on me. http://www.circuitflex.com/ProComp7.jpg

Mike, the crank snout should be soft enough to drill out and re-tap to a larger size. Larger is stronger! If you went the helicoil route you would have to re-tap anyway so why not just go up a size. Your just trying to hold the balancer on. Personally I use a threaded rod mounted all the way into the crank, then use a strong nut to push the balancer on. Then remove the threaded rod and locktite the bolt on.

No bricks! Lumber only! We want you around! I just picked up a block today and it fell apart in my hand! If you can afford to work on your car then you can afford a cheap set of jackstands with wood underneath.

I was able to fit the Autometer ProComp 5" Tach into the stock bevel mount. This retains the stock plastic lens and fits like a dream. The whole procedure took about 30 minutes. I carefully removed the Bezel by prying the metal ring off from the back a little at a time. Then I removed the innerworkings and took the white plastic base down to my bench sander and removed the front flange. Then I cleaned it up and pushed it in. The fit is perfect and 1 screw will hold it fine. When I get it installed into the car I’ll give a report. I still have the speedometer to mount. http://www.circuitflex.com/ProComp1.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/ProComp2.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/ProComp3.jpg

Happy new year! Went to bed at 9:00 PM and woke up at 5:00. I feel great!

Ha, You guys are killing me! Yea, my dog ate the floor and it's going to get a nice Armstrong interlocking floor in the spring. That will give my X hole a nice spot to sit.

Here is my christmas present. 2 1/2" X pipe and 2 16" Borla XR-1 NHRA Sportsman Mufflers. The mufflers are lighter than I expected, and the X pipe looks like crap so I have to do a little grinding on it to clean up the X hole. http://www.circuitflex.com/XpipeBorla.jpg

My 280 is a little heaver than your 240. I will be running a LS1 in mine, so I asked Ross at Modern Motorsports to recommend a coilover for me. Here is what he told me: Dale, I'd suggest 175/225-10's. That's a lot of torque, anything softer in your rear and you'll still have a lot of squat. With 225's you'll still have fine stoplight traction.....if you squat too much your rears camber in and thus greatly reduce effective footprint and thus traction. You not 1/4 mile as preferred event but you want it stiff for handling......not overly similar characteristics but I believe the 175/225 will suit this. The Illumina inserts greatly improve ride comfort and tuneability as you can go soft or stiffer etc depending on your event/trip/preferences. Sounds alot like Jmortsen's recommendation!

Man, that's great! Your on your way to a tire frying! I'm jealous!

Wow!, Mr. Fusion!

I learned this from "Cozy Z Cole" Enter the forum, go down to the bottom of the page to "Display Options". Change the "From the:" from day to month or year and click "Show Threads"

'99 Trans Am, 16K miles, 524rwhp/467rwtq 12.01 @ 123 Humm, traction a problem?

Ah! yes. The setting was on last day starting from today, so nothing ever shows up. I changed it to month and it appeared. Thanks Larry.

Here's the pics I promised. Sorry about the size, I didn't have time to shrink them. http://www.circuitflex.com/Intake1.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/Intake2.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/Intake3.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/Intake4.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/Intake5.jpg

Ah, I'm jealous of you guy with cars that roll! The LS1 is a constant pressure, not vacuum controled. Go to SpeedInc.com and look in the fueling section for the billet regulator (the port on top of the regulator is for Forced Induction purposes). You will also need a pressure gauge to adjust it to 58 PSI. You should mount it on the fuel rail, not the firewall if you want to be NHRA legal. I have my manifold off and can send you a pic of where I put my regulator if you like. I will be using the SpeedInc.com 255L pump. Looks like an easy swap for a 280 pump. FWIW the thread size on that pump is 10mm X 1mm.

Still does not work, but shows that there is a thread in there. What's going on?

Go to ebay and do a search on "Toyota Calipers". You will find what you need.

The vendors forum doesn't work for me, all I get is the sticky.

What year Vette Mike? Stock cam and heads? M6 or Auto?