DaleMX

Personally I believe the ports are too small for that cam. 200cc or greater would be better.

Mine was a bitch too, I heated it up to 250 degrees, grabbed the mittens and pushed it on then tightened it down using a long bolt, removed the long bolt and finished the job with the proper bolt.

Oops, Just went and checked it out, SPEC didn't have one, just an aluminum one at around the 450 mark. Sorry, try some of the LT1 forums.

Try Thunder Racing and SPEC stuff. It should be a little cheaper.

Oh, by the way. I happen to have a 2000+ 5.3 truck Street and Performance wiring harness set up for an automatic that I want to get rid of. I needed a manual tranny harness and ended up letting Speartech make me one. I'll let it go for $200. PM me if your intrested. I also have a stock 99 LS1 cam that I'll throw in with the harness. Here's the factory specs according to JPR @ LS1tech.com Stock 98-00 trans am cam Duration@.050 198.86 intake 209.25 exhaust Lift .498 intake .497 exhausts LSA 119.45 Stock 01-02 trans am cam Duration@.050 196.37 intake 208.72 exhaust Lift .464 intake .479 exhausts LSA 115.92

With the stock heads on the 5.3 you will be hard pressed to take advantage of the ASA or Hot cam (valves are too small). If you run a stock LS1 cam you can keep the stock springs and pushrods, but the LS6 cam will require new LS6 springs and a different length pushrod. Keep in mind that the 98 LS1 cam is a little hotter than the 99-00 and might meet your goals.

I put on a flight suit and a warm hat to go outside and work on the Z. It's been in the 40's to low 50's here in Atlanta. I miss the weather from Ft Lauderdale.

Tim240 suggested the Club Series Race Mirrors from http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/ to me a while back. Go to the full index and choose mirrors and scroll down until you find them. The are about 83.00 each.

Well, I did it also but I think it turned out kinda getto. Here's my breakdown. http://www.circuitflex.com/Fusible_Link3.html

Neat, smooth, most likely heavy, and ugly!

T56 is really heavy. Like it was said just remove it, then you can use 4 people to be on the safe side.

I had to replace 3 sections of mine. All of the double flairs I made leaked and I ended up buying lengths with the double flairs and nuts installed and bending them to fit. That was easy, but make sure your getting the correct ones. The European metric fittings are the wrong ones, make sure your getting the Japanese ones.

The steering is definitely in the way, the outside tubes are about 1†from clearing, and the flange is about 1†too long and pointed in the wrong direction. The passenger side looks like a fit with a new flange, but the driver’s side is a real problem. I may try to cut about ¾ of the way through on the bottom side of the flange and bend the whole header down to almost block hugger status. Even with that I believe that the outside tube will still be a problem, but I might be able to dent it a bit and make it fit.

Mac mid length headers, 1 ¾†tube. It looks like the headers (at least for the drivers side) will fit with a little banging on one tube and cutting the flange off then welding a 3†30 degree pipe on the end of the header. I don’t have the engine in the car yet, but measuring from John’s mounts makes me think I can do this. I know the LS6 exhaust manifolds wont fit, the Fbody ones don’t fit, and the Pacesetter’s don’t even come close. Here’s what the MAC’s look like. I highlighted where the mount is at in the picture from the top for reference. http://www.circuitflex.com/MacDriversSide.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/MacDriversTop.jpg I’m waiting for my clutch to get here so I can get the engine in, so I’m tearing into the electrical in the engine bay.

Go to http://www.LS1tech.com and ask that question in the transmission section.

I bought the Harbor ones and used them once. The threads stripped out by the second spring and I threw them away. The Sears unit does look nice.

Ok, here’s the picture. The VIN number is located on the drivers side block back by the flywheel and is a laser etched number, not a stamped number. It is very hard to read. The number is actually a VIN derivative that contains the last 6 digits of the actual VIN and can be used to determine if a vehicle contains the original engine or transmission. http://www.circuitflex.com/VINstuff.jpg

It's on the block too, I'll try to post up a pic tonight.

JBC3, the plunger swap was the trick. Took 5 min's. Thanks!

I wanted to imitate the stock T56 master as best I could. Since I'm using a Spec stage 3 clutch I want to make sure I can hit it quick and get a good disconnect. Hey thanks for the plunger idea! I'll check that out!

As for the transmission tunnel question. The way I see it according the the directions the ears were to be removed, but the tunnel support should stay intact. On the 280 I have a U shaped tunnel support with mounts for the transmission mounted to that. All I removed was the mounts and left the U shaped support. As for the planning board, it is really more of a remider of details board. Since my wife died in June I have become really disorganized and forgetfull, so I write the small detail stuff on the board to remind me of things I can work at anytime. Here's how the board looks today. It really helps me alot cuz I see it like 20 times a day. http://www.circuitflex.com/PlanningBoard.jpg

The rubber boot from the old cylinder fits on the Wilwood and minimizes the amount of grinding you have to do. Took me about 20 minutes to get it to fit.

Just kidding, I think 30 is about right for the next few years. Your car looks good. My car is a beater but has a solid body and good rails. The plan is to get it running good enough to see the main stuff I want to change then tear it all apart next winter. I just hope I can get it driving before spring. Been doing a lot of homework and have a planing board in my dining room that details my goals. That way I can always look at the board and go do something productive. Works well after a couple of beers, or first thing in the morning when I'm not quite awake. Problem is that I dont do anything else but work on the car! Oh and support myself by working 70 hours a week manufacturing circuit boards. Your right though, lots of hard work ahead. I noticed in your pictures that you had removed the whole transmission mount instead of just the ears. Is that because it's a 240 and has a smaller tunnel?

Plethura, now there's a word for ya. I guess a couple of hundred across the nation would be a plethura.

Wow really nice job. Mine is years away from being that clean. I like the autometer setup, what gauges did you use and where? Did you go with the electric speedo? Glad to hear the power is controlable. I worry a little bit about that. Once again, Nice Job!