DaleMX

Those one's on Arizona's site look like they have no bushings anywhere. The would be kinda rough on the street I think.

Well I got the mounts from John’s Cars installed today. I had some minor problems and had to call John, but as soon as he heard I was having a problem he picked up the phone and set me straight. Thanks John! It’s funny how you sometimes think something is going to be hard and it turns out to be easy. I think that’s what good engineering is all about and from what I have experienced so far John’s kit has been very well done. Next step is get the engine completed (waiting on a new clutch) and I’m going to be lowering that bad boy in there.

Email me at daleici@bellsouth.net and I will supply you with the pinout.

Hummm, I'll find out soon enough and let you know.

Here is an Excel program I wrote a while back to help me determine my ideal ratio. http://www.circuitflex.com/Rpm3.xls Right click and save target as please. It's set up for a T56 tranny 195 70 14 tires and a 3.54 rearend, but just click on the transmissions tab and get the ratios for yours and enter them in by hand. Enter the tire and rearend stuff by hand also.

The JTR chevy aluminum radiator is almost a perfect fit for the Taurus fan setup. All I have to do is trim a little off of the drivers side shroud mount and trim the tab off of the top, seal up the gaps and lock it down. Here’s a pic. http://www.circuitflex.com/JTRTaurus.jpg

I got a ¾†Wilwood clutch cylinder for the T56. The stock cylinder for the T56 is a ¾ X 1†stroke. The Wilwood is ¾ X 1.1â€. The good news is the bolt pattern is the same. There are 3 minor mods that have to be done to fit it up though. The first is that the stock cylinder is about 1.38 at the boot, the Wilwood is 1.53 and does not fit in the stock hole. Trimming the hole is easy. The second is that the plunger on the stock is about 3.72†long and the Wilwood is 4.3. Cutting the plunger is easy, but I’ll try to fit it with the full length first. The third is that the clevis pin mount threads are wrong. I plan on just drilling out the threads and tack welding the proper nut on there. Actually there is no reason not to just put a nut on the other side of it and tighten it all up, but I want it clean. Here’s a pic. http://www.circuitflex.com/Wilwood1.jpg

In my opinion cheap drill presses have alot of runout and usually have squareness problems that can hinder precision work. Get something you can keep for a lifetime, not some disposable cheepie. Doesn't have to be big, just solid and square with a good true chuck. For econo good look at mid grade delta and jet stuff.

There is a nice writeup on the Velo Rossa kit from Reaction Research in the new "Kit Car Builder" magazine. Based on a Z and sports the 2.8.

Kevin, Here’s the lowdown on the heads http://www.absolutespeedls1.net/ Most folk’s don’t like dealing with Jay because it takes him so long and he is impossible to get hold of. But from the results that I’ve read about with his heads I decided it was worth the wait. The world of LS1 heads has changed recently in that AFR has a 205cc head and a 225cc, Edelbrock has a head they just announced, and Dart is coming up with one also. Mas, I hope to have it running in late December. I just have to get off my lazy a** and get some work done! Kevin, I am running an LS6 intake and 30# FMC injectors (actually 36# at 58 psi). The cam is a TR230 and I’m using a Janzer ported throttle body. I am also using a double row timing chain and a ported oil pump. The lifters are crane high energy, the rockers are Yella Terra 1.7’s, and the push rods are chrome moly from Thunder Racing. The clutch is a Spec stage II. I just purchased some CV’s and I am going with the new CV kit that Ross has with the companion flanges. The rear end is a stock 3.54, but I have a questionable (end play) 3.70 clutch LSD in the basement. I have LS1 edit and have been working on the program a bit now and am feeling comfortable with it so with the proper guidance I hope to be able to tune it. Then the goal would be to go MAFless. They say it’s all in getting the VE table’s right. My real challenge will be the headers. I really need 1 ¾†LT’s to make it work well. I have a feeling I’ll be using some block huggers from John for a while until I can find another solution.

It also depends on the type of engine. If the engine is computer controled with knock sensors then you may encounter false knock and the computer will retard the timing.

Yes they are CNC ported then touched up by hand.

I ordered a set of stage II heads for the LS1 from Jay at Absolute Speed. The order was placed in July and I recieved the heads today. 2.02 intake valves, approx 11:1 CR. Casting number was 862 (4.3L truck heads). I believe Jay has a new Superflow and used a 3.9" hole @ 28". The cam I'm using has intake lift of .575 and exhaust lift at .565, duration at .050 is 230 intake and 224 exhaust. The LSA is at 111.1 according to the cam doctor. Here's the flow numbers: .200 147 .300 206 .400 257 .450 277 .500 294 .550 307 .600 312 And some pics: http://www.circuitflex.com/Chamber1.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/Exhaust1.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/Intake1.jpg

Ummmm, Z is too much for me.

Awhhhh!!!! Too Cute! Congratulations!

Sounds like what happened to mine. The reaction disk fell out of the power booster when someone changed the master cylinder. I bought a new booster and it solved the problem. By then I had replaced the entire braking system and still had the pedal to the floor problem. If the rod is pulled a bit from the power booster when the M/C is removed then the reaction disk will fall out and cause this problem.

Sounds nice and cozy! I think I see a JTR radiator in there. What do you think of it? Is it all rubber isolated? Those side pipes are boss.

Was that the game where money was buckazoids?

The sawzall went right through it. I ended up sitting in the lotus position and sawing them like that. I have a hard time looking up because of neck problems years ago. Anyway the mounts are out. I'll grind next and paint them then it's onto installing the engine mounts.

I'm going with the LM. Over on the LS1tech board it is a popular device. They are working on a gauge that eliminates the box for permanent installation and I want to see how well that works before purchasing it. I understand that there have been mixed results using their RPM monitor and the LS1. Personally I plan on making my logs using EFI Live.

Thank's Dan, I wear my goggles alot more now that I've had some metal in my eye. I'm going to get the Sawzall out and hack away.

Ok, I got my steering bushings changed out today. That job is so easy with the engine removed. I can see how it would be real hard with the engine in there. I also removed the mount for the MAF, sanded it cleaned it, etched it with “metal ready†and painted it with POR. Now I’m ready to remove the transmission mount ears. I’m thinking about sawing the middle out then bending the sides over a bit and cutting them off. Can someone else that has removed these mounts chime in here and give me a little advice please.

Plating aluminum can be tricky. If you just plate to it without anodizing them first the plating will peel. Aluminum forms an oxide when exposed to air and the oxide breaks off easy. So before they can plate to it they have to be anodized, then copper plated (fills in gaps and levels) and polished, then nickle plated, then a quick shot of chrome.

This one is nice. http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1578/products/2598/Fast-Burn-385-w_-LT4-Hot-Cam-Upgrade-Custom-High-Performance-Series-Street-and-Strip-Engine.htm

Here's the route I'm taking with my Z since bumpers are required by law around here. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SF501504A&Category_Code=7AP It really doesn't weigh 160 lbs, that mostly shipping crate.