Gollum

the 25" might not be at the inside of the frame rails. Consider that. When I measured the S130 engine bay, majority of the shock towers were less than 25" of clearence, and the top was about 28". The inside of the frame rails were closer to 20" And you could mount the engine far enough back to no have issues with the suspention, but then you couldn't use the AWD.

I truly beg to differ about the torque issue. Trust me, I love torque, and I agree that in many cases a car without enough torque for the weight of the vehicle isn't fun. But HP IS TORQUE. Why people talk about wanting one more than another is nonsense. A high RPM motor is going to be a low torque motor, and a high torque motor is going to be a low reving motor. It's that simple. HP is RPM x Torque / 5252 HP is how much work will actually get done. Having lots of torque just means you'll get it done at lower RPM. What matters isn't how much torque you have, it's the TORQUE CURVE. The curve of the torque will give you an insight into the usible power range. A flat curve like a honda yeilds a very liniar power band that gives you a motor that makes more power as you rev it. As long as it gets air it's happy and will just keep on making more power since the torque just doesn't fall off. (until around 10k when the cam dies). A 440 mopar has a very high offset curve that starts huge, and drops off to next to nothing past 4k. This is great for towing, or if you want to do burnouts all day long. Or if you want to have 400hp on tap while cruising down the freeway. But these motors can actually tend to be more "peaky" than people generally think. The reason I say this is because once power starts to drop it DROPS. So you get a good strong bottom end, and it revs up, and then dies. While it's in it's happy RPM range it's great though. The answer to ANY torque/hp curve is gearing. You want to shift from the top of your curve to the bottom of your curve. The longer you can make that curve the better. Here's the dyno of the H1 V8, and since it has only 2.8 liters with a short stroke, it can't physically make huge torque, and relies on RPM to make it's power. Look at how beautiful that torque curve is. Don't look at the number, look at the curve. It bubles up perfectly and still allows the motor to maintain a liniar performance in the rest of the powerband making it a very VERY versatile motor. My friend chris here on this board (rudypoochris) did an article on this subject on his site. http://www.autolounge.net/tech/hptq.html Please read it and understand I agree, which means in most cases I'd say torque is very important. But it must all be taken in context and that it's about RPM range as well. You want to spend the most usible time in your RPM range as you can, and the bigger you can make it the better, regardless of torque numbers. ==================== And regarding the enginer management. It's been discussed in other threads, that it's better to use two independant systems than one giant system. This is how many V8 engines actually run, two totally seperate ignition systems, one running one bank, one running the other. There shouldn't be a problem running two systems on two engines. It's been done in the past with success.

My favorite part was when they did the slow motion shot of the subie covering the guy in snow, getting the rear bumper within a foot of the guy. Maybe less than 6 inches. Those guys car drive.

Funny, was just at my gf's birthday party last night. Happy brithday doc. Glad to see you have people around you who care. It helps methinks.

yea, 30 inches is roughly what I measured all the times I've measured the STI motor. Cramming that into the 25" Z bay would be tough. You'd have to tube frame the front end and completely remove the stock rails and strut towers. Then you might also need to modify the suspention to make sure it clears the engine. It might not be THAT bad, I'm just thinking worst case scenario.

Exhaust sounds interesting. Almost like a quiet open headers. But maybe it WAS open and the camera just hates it. I'd definately like to see some detailed pics of the engine bay. I've always thought that a cetrifugal supercharger would be perfect for the L28 myself, as it could be positioned away from the intake/exhaust, and wouldn't heat up the intake charge like the turbo does. But at any rate it's still cool to see someone doing something different.

I made a plate and painted it back for about $20 in materials and paint. Next time around I'll be able to make a better one, as my fab skills are slowly getting better.

The pedal wear is a good idea for milage. Also check the overall cleanliness of the engine bay. Look for oil stains, and oil/dirt build up. The crossmember, if clean, will be a grey paint color, not black. There's actually a little Z emblem on the crossmember, but I nevern noticed it until I pulled an engine out. Check for rust in the interior side of the wheel wells. The rear windows love to leak and water will run down inside and start to rust stuff out. One of the first areas to go is the spare well, so check there first. You can say you're just checking out the spare stuff, making sure the "can of air" is there. If the windows have been leaking the interior will usually show it with some warpage around the corner window area. If you can, drive it. Check how well it shifts. Turn on the AC, see if the belt starts to howl. Steer to full lock and see if it makes any noise or pulls back at all. There's many other small things you can check. But overall, I wouldn't pay anything over 2k for a S130 unless it was perfect. I mean perfect. No tears in the interior. No dash cracks. Low milage engine running strong. Smooth funtioning suspention. No leaks. Etc. I got my 26,000 mile S130 for $500. Granted it was used as a parts car and didn't run, it was still a nearly complete S130 with 26k for $500. I still have the front plate that's only been on the car a few times and still looks brand new. And it's blue (old CA standard). Best of luck with the car. Hopefully it turns out to be awesome and hopefully you get a good deal out of it.

Woops. Yea, the farthest right 4 should be a 2. Thanks for the participation thus far guys. Got some pretty good input and ideas thus far.

Yea I feel for ya team nissan. Regardless if the 215 had a flat plane crank in racing, I don't think it had a flat plane crank on the production versions like that one on ebay for $200. So it doesn't really matter. What we're looking for is a motor with a flat plane crank from FACTORY, that's relatively affordable. I'm starting to wonder if there's a 4 cylinder crank on the market that could be used in a V8... As long as a the spacing was right it could be usible correct? You could have a machine shop grind the bearings to what specs you needed, or find rods to match. What matters most would be the main bearing and thrust bearing specs. I know cranks have quite a bit of science in them, but once you find a match, if it's a honda there's plenty of performance cranks out there to work off of... Maybe something to look into.

Sweet, I'm definately interested in that article. Even just finding out what engines they used would be nice. Another thing I just thought of, that I'd never thought of before... ...What if you used viscous coupling to couple the engines together? That would provide a non solid coupling that would give you a bit of safety so you don't destroy the motors, and it would make sure you didn't have any strange harmonics created in the process. On the downside you might not make nearly the same power, and it'll sound like two four cylinders, no an inline 8, and they're resonate independantly, instead of together.

Looks like some good stuff. Thanks for the info. The timing options I was talking about. Yes it's crude, but hopefully you'll all get it. Note that this is JUST using OEM firing orders. This is the common 4 cyinder firing that I've seen almost all 4 cylinders use. I couldn't find the hayabusa firing order in a quick search, but I'm sure the info is out there. I'd imagine it'd be the same.

Ok, I was just doodling and realized something... What on EARTH firing order would you use?! You have two flat plane cranks, so there's no reason to offset them, leave them together, firing two cylinders at once... ...but you're still left with FOUR options. I'll do a little MSPaint doodle to show.

It's just the simple process of either sending multiple engines power to one location via a multiple input differential, or hooking multiple engines up to a common drive line. Surf speed channel in the middle of the day. Eventually you'll see a tractor pulling contest, and you'll see plenty of tractors with this concept. 4 or more huge Big block chevys with superchargers working together. Another way that's been done before is to hook up an engine's flywheel to another engine's front crank pully, allowing the engines to effectively work together. Care must be taken on how it's done, but it's been done plenty of times before. Btw... if anyone knows of a RWD hayabusa tranny conversion... feel free to chime in. EDIT: For those that don't know. There was a similar topic in the past here, and yes i've seen it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124247&highlight=multiple+engines

Ok, so I just had an idea. Granted this might NEVER ammount to anything, but just thought I'd throw out the idea to everyone and see what people think. So we've all see multiple engines linked together like in certain race cars and in those huge tracker pullers. The idea isn't new at all. I've often wondered if two VG30E engines would fit in a Z... Anyways, what about the inline 4 bike engines? Some of those suckers can get well over 150hp naturally aspirated, and some well over 300 with force induction. They're also very compact and light. They're high reving too (pro and con, depending on who you are). There's the H1 V8, which is wicked sick, and wicked expensive. But I was just thinking that an inline 8 might be massively glorious in a Z.

I'm not old enough to actually remember those, but I've loved them since I first learned about them. Wasn't the SOHC a 2 Valve motor though? And the DOHC was a 4 Valve. That's what I thought at least. And I've deinately seen lots of SOHC 16 valve 4 cylinders at the junkyard. Mostly hondas, seen some others as well. It's actually kinda fun frequenting junkyards often. You get to the point where you can reconize a manufacture by very minute details. I don't need to see the rest of the car to tell what it is half the time. The engine bays just start to become familiar, and most of the time the valve covers have been removed, so what the rockers look like and what the cam setup is becomes a sign to what engine a car has, or what car is behind the open hood.

I've learned as much as I can via their website and their patents. The patents are easy to find just using google searching "coates patents" The company seems to be trying to hit the industrial market hard. This, in all honesty, is where the money is at. I'd like to see them in the hobbyist market, but there just isn't the same demand there. If you look into them, you'll notice many of their patents revolve around a valve sealing system their engine's used in order to actually seal off the combustion chamber. I suspect this is the weakest link in their engines, because they don't talk at ALL about this technology and patents on their site. The idea has proved to work well, but I have a feeling we're just seeing the begining of the potential they'll be bringing to the table. Ok... back on topic... One of my best friends made a ton of money off of a penny stock once. He sold his entire paintball rig for about 2k (gave it away imo) and put it ALL into a company that sells iron on a large scale basis for bridge work. The stock was at like .004 and they'd just gotten a huge project in and it jumped to like .012. He sold it all and then bought his CRX and had the money for his engine swap.

Well, I told my parents to buy nintendo stock back in the summer before the gamecube came out. Stocks were at $8 a share or so. They bought me some stock as a christmas present at $21 a share, 10 shares. I told them again about 10 months before the Wii came out, "BUY NINTENDO STOCK!!!" And they did. My mom put about 80% of her stock portfolio and regrets not putting more in, even borrowing money if she had to. She bought at $14, and sold it at $65, and it's still climbing. I've been watching the coates rotary cam company. They just signed thier first big contract with a company building engines for generator purposes. I really wanna see them take off, because I think they have a product that could replace all DOHC camshafts on the market, if the company would just hurry up and grow. So I'm watching closely, and once their foundation is dry and hard, I'm gonna put some money into them. I'm not sure I could do penny stocks though. I really need to feel I know a company before investing. Doing stocks on a day to day basis just seems to risky to me. Granted, I'll admit I'm just a mere novice when it comes to the stock market.

Hey I feel for ya man. I've been working on this stupid engine swap of mine now for well over a year, approching 2 years soon i think. At least it feels like it. Get the electrical finished and what happens? Start blowing fuse links. Get that problem solved. What happens? Starter dies. Fix starter, what happens? Runs, but on 3 cylinders. Replace plug wires. Well now I've got 5 cylinders. Fix running rich problem fouling plugs. Runs good now... Go to install driveshaft... doesn't have the right yoke on it. I mean, I've had problem after problem after problem. And the sad part is that I'm actually just gonna be selling it once I get it on the road because the smog laws are just getting too insane in CA. If it weren't for that I'd be keeping it though. Hopefully things will start to turn around for you though.

hmm, that's really weird then. Because I KNOW I have a T5, I know the difference. And I KNOW the shaft I bought from a guy selling a L28ET T5 is NOT to the nissan B tranny. If it'll hold I think I'm just gonna use the B tranny and treat it nice. I'm thinking i'm just gonna sell the thing anyways. There's a 240Z i'm trying to buy right now. So the earlier question remains, can I use the flywheel+clutch from the T5 with the B tranny?

Umm, search for threads by auxilary (aka aux). He's the most knowledgable about the 13B swap on this board (I believe). He'll go on and on telling you much that swap costs and how overly complicated it is. I agree with some of the other comments though, I'd suggest the RB25. It'll fit it just as easily/hard and can take make way more power on more stock parts, so it really saves you money in the long run. Same could be said about the RB26 if you're looking for insane power levels, but if you're looking at the RB20 then I'm assuming that's not the case.

I need a 2 seater length driveshaft. The other possability is that the shaft I got wasn't really from a 2 seater turbo, but it most certainly isn't from a L28E as it's just as beefy and huge as my turbo 2+2 shaft, and it's definately the correct length. I'm gonna call some more shops, and see if anyone can balance a shaft with the yokes on, therefore negating the need to remove them.

Hey everyone. I'm at the last hurdle in my swap, and I just wanna get this thing on the road. Issue: 2+2 T5 has a different output spline count than the 2 seater T5. This makes using the 2 seater shaft impossible. All shops I've talked to don't wanna work on the shaft and tell me that the yokes can't be replaced without damaging them. Questions: Can my stock L28E take the power as long as I'm gentle on it? I'd assume so... Is the nissan tranny going to bolt onto my engine just fine and be compatible with the stock flywheel/clutch? Again, I just want to get this on the road. I'm going to keep looking around for another T5, one from a 2 seater, and swap that instead, since I already have the shaft for it.

Well information isn't exactly overwhelming because it's not a common swap, and I don't know of anyone here at this site that's done it. There's quire a few 2JZ and 1JZ swaps into the S30 cars though. Here's some notes on the differences between the two vehicles though. Firewall placement is about 1" farther forward on the S130 Steering rack sits behind the crossmemeber, not in front 3 Seperate rack options. 2 power, 1 manual Hopefully that's a start. Good luck in the info search.

Do you remember what year yours was? My donor was a late 83', maybe nissan changed things in that year or late in production run. Shop called me today, they can't work on it, due to the yokes being a certain type they can't remove without destroying. Right now I'm wondering if it'd be cheaper to get a 2 seater turbo tranny instead of getting a custom driveshaft made. grrr