getZ

That's why I punched a hole in the side of my garage and mounted a wall A/c unit. I couldn't even stay in the garage long enough to think about what I wanted to do next without soaking in sweat, but those days are over until next year! Try sanding down fiberglass bondo in your underwear. I dare ya!

I used map gas and a putty knife, then went over the last remaining goo with acetone.

That's funny you said that because I think just the opposite. If I had it to do over again I would go with an LS1, for smoothness and drivability. Wanna swap a carbed or fuel injected 388 sbc with Dart pro1 heads? You can keep the stick and I would keep my 2004r. Dimensionally the small blocks are identical on the outside, except you would run a short water pump instead of a tall one. What are you trying to accomplish?

I'm putting my car up for sale. There really not much left to do to the car. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=943478#post943478

That's probably what I will land up doing. The first time I called them, they said I could tune it by hand if I was computer savy, so I thought I would give it a try. I don't think it's incredibly difficult, but you need two people to do it. Sombody watching the controller with the wideband and the other guy driving. I tried doing it by myself and it's extremely hard to read an LCD display while driving.

Anybody have any baseline tuning info for edlebrock pro-flo 3500? I pulled the whole thing off my camaro and put it on the z car to make use of it and keep the unit running. My combination is a 383 with dart 200cc heads at about 10:1 compression. The cam is a single pattern cam 238 @.05 with 480 lift. The orignal chip was burned for the edelbrock performer rpm combo, heads and cam (edlebrock performer rpm heads are 170cc intakes and cam is 238/248 @ .05 and the lift is 488/510. I'm new to tuning fuel injection and the books I have aren't that helpful. It looks like a lot trial and error under different conditions to get it right. I thought it would be as simple as just hooking a wideband O2 sensor on it, tune at various rpm levels and away you go. It turns out the engine fuel needs are very different under load and temperature. There's even a provision for quick pedal movement to compensate. I plan on starting conservative with timing and fat on fuel, but that seems easier said than done.

Forget the stock rods, even on a tight budget I would go with a set of Eagle 5140 rods for the price. From summit they are about $236 for a 5.7 rod set and weigh in at about 570 grams. It's just a better rod for about the same price.

I've been eyeing that setup for my 73 z28 (actualy it's really an RS), but that whole setup is very expensive. It's supposedly does the best of both worlds, comfort and handling. For my camaro it's bolt in, but involves changing upper control arms and taking out the whole rear suspension. Also it can change ride height at the flick of a switch, but the whole setup runs about 5 grand. It's cool, but out of my price range.

I just converted my carbureted car over to EFI and moved the new pump to the front of the rear control arm. If you don't have a rear sway bar there is a hollow area under the car with enough room to fit the pump and filter. It is lower than the stock tank. BTW I don't know if this makes a difference or not, but the manufacturer recommends you mount those straight inline pumps horizontal and not vertical.

there are some answers in another thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134383&highlight=getz&page=2

A buddy of mines told me about this, so I thought it would be easy enough to just run a synthetic oil. It was on my to do list.

I pulled the whole assembly out and put it in a vise. It took some oomph, but it moved about half an inch.

ya gotta want it! Actualy I think I rigged it up to a long bar to bend it right.

You have me curious if the GTO diff is the same.

Get angry, hulk out and bend it back. Don't take that from a puny pedal. Then make sure you set the pedal stop correctly so you don't put pressure on the pedal lever at wide open throttle.

Wow that is awesome. You could do car wax ads with that thing!

I suspect the problem may lie with the aftermarket LSD's. Another member with a Quaffie and the same problems as I did. I have never had the two next to each other to get a measurement, not sure how I would do that either.

Nice work. If you still have heat problems, you migh try Lizard Skin. The ceramic stuff works very well, but you have to put in on the body not directly on the exhaust. It is also fairly light.

What kind of differential are you running? I used a powerbrute in a 72 and had fitment problems.

I did a write up a long time ago on the ignitor trouble shooting. It's easy enough to test with a 9v battery. The ignitor is just a tranistor. When you apply 9 volts to the base (computer input) it completes a short, essentialy it is just a switch that activates with a computer signal input. This is part is critical, the ignitor coil completes the circuit connection through the ignitor housing, so it must be mounted to the body or it has no ground path. Testing the trigger signal from the computer is a little more involved without a quick responding meter or digital o-scope, but somewhere in the archives I posted images with a digital o-scope.

I have the mini in my car and it will get you buy, but it doesn't seem to be the compressor, condensor combination, but the fan. It really doesn't blow that hard. If the vents were better on a z it maybe more effective. Then again, this is in Phoenix, Arizona at 110 degrees in the middle of summer. The whole skin of the car is painful to touch if its been sitting in the sun.

the price of the gas conversion alone is about $150 with regulator, solenoid and cable liner for a weld pak 100, I think it is the same for the 135, but I'm not positive. The price of the bottle is what it is. Be careful about buying a used one since to fill it some places require a bottle certification. I bought mines a while back for about 80 bucks, it about 3 1/2 feet tall and just do a tank exchange every time I need more gas ($40). The downside is I have to do exchanges with the same company. In my case, this isn't a problems since they are within a mile of my house.

yep, I only saw parts of the video. After reading about the engine description I change my mind, but does it really work?

The problem with steam is you still have to burn something to make it. You will need an additional subsystem to make the steam. I didn't see whether or not they are recapturing the water vapor and turning back into to water. If not you need an on board water source as well. Looks like a good engine for a generator. If you could make a solar steam generator you would have a very nice power source. Build a battery powered car you have the potential of being self sufficient from a power company at least until the sun went down.

If your car is like mines (72 240), it requires reweldling the transmission mounting ears in the tunnel, which chucked after I cut them off. Most of the other stuff is about the same as installing the engine, nothing really hard, just time consuming.