getZ

I don't think anybody understands all the problems, thats why we write into the forum. There are also previous threads with measurements of axles and so far I do not know the exact reason why some people have problems and other don't. As far as I can tell, the problem is on 240zs, it seems 72 and earlier have the problem. Also after market LSD units may also be a shade wider then the stock units. The r200 I am running is out of an 88 300zx. Perhaps we should start another thread of people listing there combination of parts, year, etc, from stub axle, year of 300zxt CV, spacer distance (or maybe year), control arm, year and make of r200. Just by looking at pictures of other peoples setup I would guess the 300zxt CV are already close to their farthest compression. Look at how squashed up the boots are.

FREDDYRENATO, not sure if it will fix my problem or not. For me, it's worth a try. I'm not so worried about the axles. One of the guys lost a gear set and an LSD, that is much more expensive. I'm not sure you can even get power brutes anymore. If there is binding it should be easy enough to put you hand on the diff and feel if is getting hot. If you can do that while you're driving without getting killed I would be really impressed.

For me both axles are a bit to long. I grinded down both stub axles about an eighth of an inch and that fixed the driver side, but the passenger side is still a bit to long. I don't notice it except on moderately hard left hand turns while accelerating, then you feel a small bump. There's not much room on the wheel side of the CV to grind that much without running into the snap ring groove, maybe another eighth if that. As a side note I had to remove both end caps off the CV's as well. Does everybody run that end cap? It gave me another eighth inch (3mm) of travel.

no, too long

okay, I took a couple of pictures for reference. Keep in mind, this is the 300zxt shafts on a power brute lsd. The gap is approximately 3/8 of an inch.

not sure if this is going to work, but I was going to change the convertor so I was planning on tipping both trans and engine backwards and hopefully that will give me the clearance I need to access the bolts.

I think part of the problem does lie with after market LSD's. I run a power brute LSD. I'll try and get a picture tonight of the distance between the driver side CV and pumkin. I'm guessing it sticks out about 3/8 of an inch.

r200's seem to be strong enough, there's more info in the sticky about a pin in there that can loosen itself out. Keep in mind, everything has it's breaking point and you may find it with a pair of slicks drag racing. The weakest link seems to be the half shafts. A lot of people including myself opted to do a CV upgrade. Next on the list for weak links seem to be the 240z stub axles. Some opt for 280z axles or better yet Modern Motorsport has some 4340 ones they make up. I think Ross has some even beefier ones to coming out soon. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php This is a personal perference thing, but I'm not crazy about a 3200 stall for a daily driver and with an LS6 cam you don't necessarily need it.

the higher octane gas will let you put more timing into the engine without detonation. How much advance are you running at idle? If you're going to run a turbo, it's easier to just yank the entire turbo assembly off an old engine, intake, exhaust injectors, computer and wiring harness or simply buy the whole engine and sell the extra parts off. You may find one for under budget, but I would try and leave a few hundred bucks for injectors and any other possible bad parts.

My CV's were ebay specials, I don't think they were rebuilt, but I did have the cages flipped. I did notice that both axles don't seat all the way into the LSD. I'll have to go take another look. If I remember correctly the right side was sticking out about 3/8 inch. If that's the case, it would be cheaper and easier to recut the locking ring groove and grind down the end.

My problem side is the right side and I also run a power brute. My solution was to run without the end cap and grind about an 1/8 off the stub axle. I just haven't had time to take the car out and run it through the turns to check it out yet.

this topic is a concern for several of us. Do a search on "300zxt." Nobody has really found a solution other than custom CV's. The problem seems to be with 240s. Be careful about putting to much pressure on the pumkin part of the gear box. It may go into place, but the pressure has seemed to cause at least a failure of at least one diff.

I'm not sure what the frequency in Japan is, a lot of European countries use 50Hz instead of 60Hz. AC motors don't typicaly like the frequency change, they overheat. I can't say what an AC welder would do, but I wouldn't recomend using a different frequency unless the device was made to do so. It's usualy labled on the device somewhere. If you have a device labled 220V 50/60Hz you would be good here and a lot of Europe.

secondaries opening up? Throttle linkage set correctly? Engine rev past 3000? Does it rev slow? Throttle response okay? Transmission shift gears smoothly? What size stall? Enough transmission fluid? This kind of reminds me of being a kid, out horsing around late one night trying to hit a road sign with rocks. It was so dark you couldn't see the sign, but every now and then you could still hear it ring. You never knew if the rock went to high or low, wide left or wide right, but if you picked up a whole handful of rocks, you pretty much hit it all the time. BTW - who keeps messing with the signatures? Well, it's cheap entertainment, some of them pretty funny.

Those spacers give you added hood clearance. They lower the engine mounts away from the hood. My car has plenty of clearance without the spacers with a standard 14 inch filter with half inch dropped base. Besides installing the spacers is a 30 minute to an hour job, just make sure you have longer bolts before you put them in.

You don't have to heat it if the air temp is warm enough. I applied it at 60 degrees and it went on fine. Of course, here in Phoenix the day times highs never really get that cold. It would have been nice if they sold it in smaller quantities, but after using it, I'm really happy with it and am glad I have enough to do the entire interior of my camaro.

I've used lizard skin twice, once for cutting part of the spare wheel well and another time to coat the frame rail caps. It sound proofs, protects and insulates as well as being much lighter than regular undercoating. I rolled it on underneath, but it leaves a crude finish like undercoat. I've seen people spray it on and it comes out like bed liner, not super smooth, but even. The downside is it is expensive. The ceramic insulator plus gun is going to run you about $350, but there is enough stuff to probably do a couple of cars. You can also paint the stuff when you are finished for a real finished look.

Sounds interesting, a shortie header with 1 7/8 primary and 3" collector!

Don't worry about mixing them up. The splined input shaft is a different length so the wrong one will not "click" into place. It takes a good firm shove and then the locking ring will hold it in place.

I think you are right, 10 mm might be to little. It probably needs to be about and inch shorter. On my car, I think the CV only moves about a quarter of an inch though the suspensions range. Idealy I would rather just have the shafts shortened, but I don't think it is possible because the diameter of the axle decreases where the spline needs to be recut. BTW - I found this in a previous thread, for whatever reason the turbo shafts had only about 1.5 inches of movement http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125503&highlight=300zxt+cv We have a local CV joint shop here in town that may have some other ideas. The guys are good enough to tell you what type of car they came out of just by looking at them.

My thinking about diff was the width may be slightly different, not much maybe a half to quarter inch different, or the axles may slip in further, but I'm just guessing at this point. BTW, there was another thread with actual lengths of the 300zxt cv's, it had pictures as well. I guess I'll go back and remeasure everything out again. Thanks for the link to the driveshaftshop.

I have done the swap and don't think they fit correctly. There was sombody here who also lost a diff. I won't drive my car more than a couple of miles until this problem is resolved. The other guy who said he had problems went with a Quaiffe. My axles are flipped and I still think they were about an inch to long. To me the first sign of trouble was when it was difficult to swing the shock tower back into place with the CV mounted on the pumpkin. You should be able to disengage the CV with the shock tower already bolted up. DO NOT FORCE the assembly back together. Personaly, I would not recommend my current setup, 72 240z, 88 r200, aftermarket LSD (I forgot the brand, it was from Reider's), 300zxt cv's, 240z spacers and MM stub axles. Currently I am looking to get a custom CV made up and be done with this issue. It makes me uneasy seeing the CV boot all bunched up.

looks like a catalytic convertor to me

A narrow band is not a direct replacement for a wideband. It's not as simple as just measuring the resistance. There are physical differences in the makeup of the different types of O2 sensor and that's why there is such a huge difference in price. It don't remember exactly what the difference was now, some exotic metal or something like that.

I've got an Innovate Technologies one and I have found it to be great for tuning carbs. Checking left bank versus right bank, idle, etc. I bought a bunch of extra bungs to put on other cars after I bough the thing. There is a support forum on the vendors web site that I have found useful as well. Feed back after adjustments is instantaneous. My next step will be to get it hooked up to a data logger. If you are serious about making power, especialy turbo guys, you need a wideband O2. I'm not so sure about EGT's. I've never used one, but I see guys who use them say they are only good for relative measurments and are engine/exhaust specific.