78zlt1

I think the Patches would look cool on one of these jackets. http://www.rtretro.com/index.html

coincidence?

Butt weld is the way I would go, overlapping seams will be prone to rust. Goto Harbour Frieght and get these clamps, Cheaper than the ones at Eastwood. They will keep the correct gap and the panels aligned.

Nope Sorry look on Ebay I've seen them on there before. Unfortunatly I lost the CAD file when my hard drive crashed all I have is the PDF file I uploaded. I didnt do the Subframe connectors on CAD ,I just looked at Pete's info and modified it a bit as I built it. I did use some SQ tube clamped to the rocker panel seam to make sure the subframe was parallel with each other and the front frame, , a good angle gauge helps too.

I looked thru my photos and Those are the best i have of the T/C connectors, I did find these they may help a bit. Just take alot of measurements and record them before you cut anything apart.

Well nothing really , Im a design engineer by trade so im sorta picky with measurements , and I want a common datum to measure from , my garage floor is not level so that was no good , I made a table out of lumber so that it was level and plumb in all directions, then I used my 2x3 rect tube ( that would later be my subframe connectors) on top of that with angle steel to box it, the same width as the seam at the bottom of the rockers , so the cars' rockers sat on the 2x3's and the seam was touching the inside of the tubes. this I called level and square. Look at the pictures in the post I linked above and it should become clear. Oh and I glad your not "Handy Capable"

My opinion is to make your own front frame rails , that is what I did out of 2 inch square tube. they are very strong, I also built a jig to put the car on so I could get acurate measurements, I made cad drawings of my frame rails they are available in this post as a PDF file, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94710 This is how I boxed them together, I cant even guess how much stronger it is than the Sheet metal frame datsun used. My car is a 1978 280Z.

If you want to stiffen up the car put subframe connectors in , (see Petes Site) www.alteredz,com I used .093 wall 2X3 rectangular tubing , afterwards I put the car up on jackstands and accidently had one stand a notch to low , the car didnt touch it , Before it would have flexed and sat down on the stand.

Thanks Bartman I'll swap the plate and spacer like you said, Think I'l need some longer bolts.....

This post sorta migrated to here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111183

Heres an update: I called Greg at JTR , he contacted Sanderson , Debbie called me and we straightened it out , Sanderson sent me the new headers and had UPS pick up the old ones, Great service from both businesses , can't complain about that. Here are the New headers CC-5 Dport angle plug. They are definitely D-port's But the port is big , 1/4 inch taller than the round ports. I don't know if they are better than the round ports, and possibly have less sealing surface. But the end plugs are accessible now, I'm going to try them and hope they don't leak. The Passenger side fits great, the drivers side hits the spacer on the engine mount, I think if i put the aluminum spacer on the block and the setback plate on the motor mount it will clear the header, but will most likely interfere with the steering shaft. What did you guys do to fix it? Steve