78zlt1

Thanks zguy36 , So should I lower the diff .5 deg and raise the tranny .5 deg? that would keep it parallel but increase my ujoint angles, I'll try that and see what I get. alternativez2003 Pete Paraska's Page has a wealth of information , its at http://alteredz.com/ read it all very good stuff. As for having the driveline on the centerline , Do you mean the horizontally or vertically? Horizontally (up/down) you could but you'd have to raise the diff or lower the engine/tranny , but that would decrease the ujoint angles more which is bad as zguy36 & kcelectronics said. as for vertically (left/right) I dont think you can .... the R200 input shaft is offset 3/4 inch towards the pass side, the JTR mounts also shift the engine/tranny 3/4 inch to the pass side to line up with the diff. I didnt measure but I'm sure the stock engine was offset the same amount.

The way I measure the verticle offset of the transmission shaft and the Diff flange is not difficult , When I installed my front frame rails and my subframe connectors I made a jig so that they are parrallel both horizontally and vertically to each other and the car , So I can use the subframe as a datum to take measurements. I center a yardstick between the subframes and use a square to find the offset. This picture will explain it better. the 24 inch mark is the centerline of the car I also measured the crank pulley and it is also 3/4" offset to the pass side. So I know the engine is parallel to the cars centerline. I use those Dial angle gauges to find my angles, they seem to be acurate to .5 degrees. Transmission angle: Diff angle:

I have studied Petes' Excellent web Page and read the forums till my eyes bleed, so I think I understand , but just looking for verification. I first made Ron Tylers famous Diff mount , installed urethane bushings in the mustache bar and installed the diff. The engine/tranny (95 LT1/T56) was installed using the JTR mounts, and a jack holding up the tranny ,(havent made the tranny crossmember yet) The Diff shaft's center is 3/4" from center towards the pass side, I Located the center of the tranny shaft so it is also 3/4" from center towards the pass side. I didnt modify the mustache bar urethane bushings and used the top washers also. So I took some measurements and layed them out to see what I had, And this is what I got... So my forward and aft operating angles are .789 degrees each and my Trans/diff operating angle is 0 degrees? I'm just cant believe everything lined up the first time, without alot of modifications to do. maybe i got lucky

Hey thats still good news sorta... Can chuck em in the lathe and cut em down to .750"

I also noticed that many of the metal sleeves were sloppy , I was just going to cut out the original sleeves and use them or machine new ones, But I 'll call Energy Suspensions , for $160 kit you expect the stuff to fit. Thanks for the heads up.

If the section you are removing is not going to be reused, What I did was just take an airtool with a 3" cutoff wheel and ground the spot weld down, you can tell when your getting close, the metal changes color (bluish ) when its getting thin , you'll get the hang of it after a few, and it doesnt harm the underlying sheetmetal. pry it up a bit and it should pop right off. hope that makes sense.

All I can say is AMAZING,

I think the stuff he may be talking about is , Hi-Temp Lab-metal http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?ID=2 Basically an item that is to be powdercated (must/should) be conductive, and be able to with stand aprox 400 degrees F for aprox 20 minutes. and you have to have an oven big enough to put it in.

Nice Info, Looks much better almost new. I found an easy way to get the lens seperated from the housing, I set my oven (a regular kitchen oven I use for powdercoating) to about 200 degrees or so and put the taillight on a piece of cardboard on the middle rack , after about 20 to 30 seconds pull it out and test prying up the lens the heat softens the caulk, you may have to keep popping it in the oven till it softens enough to get the lens off easily, after the lens is off clean the goo out of the housing with a small screwdriver , popping it in and out of the oven to keep the adheasive soft.

You could paint it with this stuff http://www.alsacorp.com/products/mirrachrome/mirra_show.htm

I used a Pneumatic air gasket scraper http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3309 It was about 65 degrees out, ( works better when cold ) did the whole cockpit in about 30 minutes.

I'm looking around for door mirrors , Mike C said he used 70's camaro/firebird mirrors, These have peaked my interest, but I can't seem to find any pictures of these installed on a Z. Does anyone have pictures they can post of these installed? Thanks

Ok I know there is a ton of info on this. (cause I just read it all ) There are also opinions on using jack stands or a rotisserie when installing subframe connectors, I just put my 280 back on the Rotisserie last night, So I’m going that route, But here is my question, What if I Install them with the car upside-down, This way if there is any sag that it would be in preload, and when upright and weight added (reassembled car and my mass) that it would be straight at load. (sort of like a semi trailer ) Or is this pointless and the body is stiff enough not to worry about it, Oh and its a bare shell. Any opinions?