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78zlt1

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Everything posted by 78zlt1

  1. 78zlt1

    Bedliner

    From the album: BODYWORK

  2. 78zlt1

    Bedliner2

    From the album: BODYWORK

  3. 78zlt1

    Bedliner1

    From the album: BODYWORK

  4. 78zlt1

    epoxy3

    From the album: BODYWORK

  5. Looks interesting, How about the distance from the center of the inner tierod ball joint to ball joint compared to the stock rack , and campared to the LCA mounting bolt holes? and size & spline count of the input shaft.
  6. Has anyone used a Dynomax Ultra Flo X Muffler? http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400358+318531+115&autoview=sku I have an LT1 and a '01 camaro fuel tank, I want to run duel exhaust. I thought of installing this instead of an x pipe , and use a couple of these MagnaFlow 10416 on each side of the fuel tank because of limited space. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MPE%2D10416&N=700+115&autoview=sku what do you think? have any suggestions? I'd like to have it quite but make some noise when the go peddle is smashed.
  7. 78zlt1

    epoxy2

    From the album: BODYWORK

  8. 78zlt1

    epoxy1

    From the album: BODYWORK

  9. I’ll be watching this thread with much interest; I won’t be to the point of installing For awhile but hopefully this problem can be solved, I have 2 sets of 300zxt shafts 1 OEM and one rebuilt, and the rebuilt set are definitely reassembled incorrectly, This info is all in the tread that getZ posted above. again here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125503&highlight=300zxt+cv One question I have is, is everyone that is having problems using an LSD? Or is the stock open rearend also encountering this ?
  10. I have that very Harbor Freight blaster, Never got it to work well till i converted it to PABlaster style, works ok for small to medium sized parts , and it would take forever to do a car with it , and probably burn up your air compressor. Heres a link to the equipment I rented, Coal slag is alot safer then sand very low silica. http://www.artsrental.com/index.html?ACTION=Rental&STATE=5&cid=10 http://www.artsrental.com/index.html?ACTION=Rental&STATE=5&cid=492 http://www.marcousa.com/products.cfm?id=33&CD2=Yes
  11. I just did this last fall, I took a week off work to do it. IMO you dont want to blast the outer sheetmetal panels they can warp , I got a electric harbor freight 7" var speed sander polisher with 80 grit disk for it, I striped the outer surfaces of fenders, hood, doors, roof , rear quarters with it then finished it off with 120 on a DA. I got a diesel powered compressor/trailer and a 250lb pressurized blaster from a local tool rental place, I bought about 15 100 lb bags of Coal slag ( get the fine 30/60 size) I had a full tyvek suit and full hood with a positive pressure air supply to it , ( borrowed from a friend) This imo is a must you could do it without it but you will be miserable. I had the shell on a rotissery, that made life much easier. I blasted everything that I didnt strip with the disk. took about 4 hrs to blast it all. It will take a few hours to clean all the slag out of the car/parts, with compressed air ,shop vac. You want to use a waterborne Wax and grease remover an wipe everything down with clean cloths many times till nothing shows up on the cloth as you wipe it off. I used SPI products. I also used SPI epoxy to prime the bare metal, I used a harbor freight HVLP gun and it worked suprisingly well. It took me about 5 days total from start stripping to putting 2 coats of epoxy on everything, Make sure you have everything you need before you start, you dont want to leave bare metal bare for too long it can actually start to rust i hours. You can use picklex but thats another step to do. Oh yea it cost me about $500 +/- $50 to do it, which was alot cheaper ( and alot more work) then the $1800 quote I got from a local stripping business.
  12. Yup thats my car, The panel was cut off a parts car , nobody makes then as far as I know. Those are panel clamps. As Evan said they clamp and space the gap at the same time , Eastwood has them but I got mine from Harbor Freight a few years ago. If your going to butt weld panels these are the way to go, you need access from the inside thou. I did have some more pictures so here they are.
  13. 78zlt1

    pnl5

    From the album: BODYWORK

  14. 78zlt1

    pnl4

    From the album: BODYWORK

  15. 78zlt1

    pnl3

    From the album: BODYWORK

  16. 78zlt1

    pnl2

    From the album: BODYWORK

  17. 78zlt1

    pnl1

    From the album: BODYWORK

  18. 78zlt1

    Weathertrip Kit

    Question for you guys that installed these kits, Do the Windshield and hatch glass weatherstrip have the groove for the stainless trim to insert in?
  19. I was told the Pontiac G6 has EPS , anyone seen that system?
  20. I got mine from Tabco http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm
  21. The Splined shaft on my rack (2004 Forrester) measured .6835 and 36 splines ( I counted em ) , the Borgeson joint fits like a glove, sounds like yours is different if it only has 18.
  22. I fly R/C , everything from electric to 1/4 scale, its a money pit like cars but its a blast, Go over to R/Cgroups forum http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/index.php Great info and help there. If you do well on the simulator you should do fine, I've trained alot of people, Find a local club they usully have a training night. I suggest a .40 highwing trainer with ailerons to start, The trainer can plug into your transmitter ,and if you loose control he can take over. Get AMA insurance , if you hit a car or god forbid kill someone it can turn out to be a bad day.
  23. 78zlt1

    temp2

    From the album: 78zlt1

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