EZ-E

Well maybe its not the decimal point, maybe hes selling it for 68,000 rupels?

Now that is what I call a clean install! Looking really good, haha, so now what are you going to do once you turn up the wick?

Ive been waiting to see a gunmetal center with a polished lip, that makes me more then ever want to get my wheels powdercoated like that. They look great on the car and so does the car!!

I think that there is definitly going to be a need to cut and move the firewall back. I still cannot believe it actually fit inside the engine bay !!

Oh my god, and to think that some cant even get 5 - 10K for orginal and beautiful builds. This guy though thinks his 280ZX, N/A mind you, restored is worth 68k !!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-280ZX-Nissan-1981-280ZX_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6397QQitemZ4625856864QQrdZ1

The one from Procharger, that goes with there system, I like the way that it is set up.. The core size is 22x10.5x3 which I think would be sufficient. I havent ever seen anyone use this type of intercooler and was just wondering, if it was worth the effort. I can get one at the minute for a great price. So I thought I would check with you guys and see your thoughts on this. Its a 2core intercooler and here are some pics.

I think it's looking really good, great job, I love everything you have done with this car.

I was beating those on a stock turbo boosted to 15# in a 280ZX. They aren't much competition.

That was hilarious.

I have changed them all, I have searched before and could not find anything wrong, it is disturbing. Since though I have unplugged and replugged the ECU the problem is gone again. Im wondering if there are any problems maybe with my ecu.

Looks great Phil

Maybe it's just with the L motors, because like I have said and I have seen it before, some good some bad, but none definite, least when it comes to the L motor.

Could it be in the ECU or the plugs of teh ECU. I was getting tired of it clicking like it was, the relay, so I figured I had nothing to lose. With the power on though I know your not supposed to do it, but with power on, I removed all the plugs to the ECU. Waited five minutes, and there you have it, problem solved. Today the same thing no troubles. Im wondering if I have a loose wire to the ECU that is causing this? Possibly?

I have intermitently had this problem with my 82 280zx turbo. It has to do with the ignition. When I turn the car on instead of starting a relay, which sits on the passenger side, behind the lower lamp cover and next to the large harness plug that meets from parts of the harness that go to the engine bay. It will click, I will not have any ignition at all whatsoever. The car will crank, fuel will be delivered, but I will not have any spark at all. Usually I would leave it on for a short while and it would then stop, Ic ould start my car, but it now just keeps clicking. I cannot tell you what wires go to it now as it is dark out. I will report more tomorrow. I know from tracing wires to this particular relay, that it is part of the ignition circuit. If I remove the fusible link wire, the one labled IGN, it will stop clicking, if I unplug the relay behind the plastic cover next to the battery, it will stop. I just do not understand though what is causing this, I have pulled all the wires and cannot find any shorts or any parts of the wires that looked frayed or burnt. None of the connections are burnt or discolored. I cannot find any part of this that is that is bad. I cannot find anyone that has ever had this sort of problem. I have replaced to the tune of 120 dollars worth of relays and such and it still goes on. All new fusible links, and it still works. Craziest thing is it just started this again yesterday, after a 4 month leave of absence. Please anyone help. Also if anyone could at least find me a safe way of bypassing this relay so I could start and drive my car safely would also be appreciated.

Thanks a lot for all the information John, very much appreciated!!

If anything get the motor out of the Camaro, that alone is worth the 600 bucks especially if you can test it and hear it run. Depending on the actuall condition of the car and its location would dictate its price. Also without photos this is not going to go anywhere fast.

I noticed in your post reply to PParaska about using a filler when welding stainless to mild steel. I was wondering since Pete was talking about 300 series stainless, what would be the type of filler used to weld 400 series stainless to mild steel? Would it happen to be the same type? This would be for the exhaust. Thanks

Right now on Hemmings there is a 94 Vette, SC producing 605 hp for 24K. That has to be the one to get

Seems that yours looked just as good as mine 80LT1. I know this much and I think that they should say something as far as CF on they're site to the actuall holding capacity of they're clutches. Instead they use this to cover they're collective bums by saying, and this is taken directly from they're site. Generates up to a 90% increase in holding capacity over stock systems. This clutch/disc set is designed for use with engines producing 'high horsepower and torque' output, and any radically altered high performance street vehicles. Now to me, that says concidering the stock nature of the 280ZX turbo that it should hold about 350 ft lbs of torque at least. It hardly doesn't though before it starts to slip. Note how they say up too, its a broad spectrum that people tend to buy into. Oh well off my soap box for now.

Well actually the Spec Stage 3 that I bought was only maybe 75 dollars more then the Dual slipping clutch. I had also a while back purchased one of those XTD clutches, with the 6 puck sprung hub design. I have that in now awaiting the Spec, and it works great, the worst is it works better then the CFDF!! Not to mention it was almost half the price!

All I did was take mine to the local machine shop, and have it resurfaced. Unless your ring gear is damaged I can't see any reason in replacing it. With that just the same you can replace the ring gear as well. Or you could go to Dave at arizona zcar and get an billet steel one.

Cv's will always be stronger then your Ujoints, if you could do it for that price I would do that immediately. Definitly the better of the two .

I have been reading through searches and I don't want to sound stupid and I also don't want to make a mistake as well. From what I have read and gathered from my search and reading is that, if you would want more pedal throw or adjustment, with the stock bore clutch master cylinder, you would have to go with a smaller slave cylinder, like that of the 240SX. Same situation in reverse as if you went with at larger then 5/8 bore clutch master cylinder, and the stock slave, you would get more pedal throw. Reason is that I am asking is I would like a bit stiffer pedal, and a bit more throw and adjustability. So with having the stock bore master cylinder, going to a 240SX slave would give me this correct? Thanks,

Hmmm if I didn't know better I would almost think that car is kind of fast Just kidding, it sounds great. Looks just as good as well.