Cable

Change your mind already about using the factory EFI?

I get 5.3/4L60e turnkey pullouts for my customers for $1100 all day. -Harness/pcm work ($360) -Headers and exhaust work ($500) -JCI mount kit ($300) -Misc $200

No, no... I meant in the trunk area under the hatch. Sorry for the confusion.

Not the stock tank, looks like a fuel cell in the hatch.

This is most peoples objection(s) to running the LSx w/EFI. However if you bought a turn-key motor with the harness, PCM, etc its actually cheaper than going with a carb setup on a LSx. How you ask? Well the Edelbrock LS1 manifold kits sell for $650+. They include the manifold, ignition box, and the harness needed. Although you still have to run a MAP sensor, factory crank sensor, and factory cam sensor for everything to work. Not to mention buy a carb if you don't already own one (more $$$). Wait 4 Me Performance does all my harness/PCM work on all my personal and customer LSx swaps. Its $360.00 to convert a truck harness and PCM for stand-alone operation, plus free re-tunes and adjustments for LIFE. Unlike a carb that needs adjustments here and there, plus carb rebuilds from time to time, a LSx PCM is tuned it once and forget it (unless other changes are made) and is generally maintenance free.

Its possible with the cars that have DoD (displacement on demand). I owned a 2007 HEMI Charger (with DoD) that would get 27 mpg on my way to and from Vegas. Of course I had the cruise set, good gas in the tank, and behaved like a good boy and did the speed limit (mostly 55mph). But to answer your question, my Z usually gets 20+ in the city and usually gets 28 mph on the freeway doing 80+ mph, but if I stay in the 65-70 mph range I've got as good as 32 mph. In short, there is none. Hands down EFI is better for mpg. Example: If you have two identically built LS motors, one with the factory EFI (and tuned correctly) and the other with a carb setup (also tuned correctly), the EFI will make the same power (if not more), have better street manners, get better mpg, and the EFI motor overall will live longer.

Update?

The JTR SBC placement sits farther back than the LS does with the JCI mounts..... Just thought you'd wanna know.

May I ask why you are planning on going with the carb setup? As far as the LS6 cam, make sure its a '02+ and not the earlier (smaller) version. Correct. I helped a buddy put a iron block LM7 into a 3rd Gen Camaro that needed to certified by a referee in California to be SMOG legal. I warned him about the 'truck' engine, but he did his best to make it look like an LS1 with all the accessory drive, intake/rails/injectors/TB, from a '98 LS1, he even rattle canned the block with an 'aluminum' paint. When we went down to the ref, the first thing he asked is if he used a 'car' aluminum block or a 'truck' iron block. Stupidly, my buddy lied and the ref went into his tool box, came back with magnet on a telescoping pole and placed it against the block. Of course it stuck to it and it was game over while wasting the cost of the inspection and the ref made some kind of footnote on the VIN in the computer as to having an iron block incase he tried going to another ref. Kwik Performance offers a A/C compressor mount kit (high passenger side mounting location) to work with the truck accessories for $197. I've always found 5.3 cheaper than every other LS series, but I am sure it varies from area to area. 5.3's are made 2.5x more than every other LS series (4.8, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, 7.0) COMBINED. So it makes sense why they are usually easier to come by. Agreed.

I'd stick with the cam you already have, I was warned that without long tube headers, going to a larger cam wouldn't yield as big of a gain.

Wow, that is a term I haven't heard in awhile . The cheapest cam upgrade in most cases is getting a '02-'04 LS6 cam, springs, and pushrods. They can usually be found for under $150-200 for everything and offer a decent gain without losing the velvet smooth idle.

'01-'06 LQ4/LQ9 6.0 use the '01-'04 LS1 cam from the factory. LQ4/LQ9 aluminum heads are the same as LS6/LS2 heads except the chamber is bigger. That is complete BS. Who told you that? Agreed. That's easy enough since 4.8 and 5.3 share the same bore. Just find a 4.8 and steal the crank, rods, and pistons and bingo: aluminum 4.8. That is an extremely easy fix and not enough to warrant buying a completely different motor in most cases. Unless you got an LS1 from a '98-'02 F-Body or a '05-'07 Corvette, you are going to have to change the oil pan anyway.

Heads would be the next direction I'd go, in fact I am considering 5.3 heads with bigger valves for my next performance bump (along with something better than my stock LS1 intake).

Sweet!! I look forward to hearing back from you. Thanks!!

I understand if you are trying to save some coin, but I wouldn't bother. The JTR radiator kit is $280 shipped and includes everything needed except coolant. I tried going with the universal/generic circle track type aluminum radiators a few times in a few different vehicles, including one in my Big Block Chevy powered S30 Z and they just don't last for street driving. The aluminum used is pretty soft and any little pebble or gravel that gets kicked up will punch little holes in the radiator quite easily. I also had problems with the tanks cracking prob because the radiator was mounted too rigid (compared to being sandwiched between rubber isolators like the JTR setup) and the vibration was work hardening the aluminum to the point of cracking. I prob spend more time repairing the tubes and tanks than anything else in the cooling system. If you buy one of those $500 pieces from companies like Be-Cool, etc, they are made from street cars and as such built with much better aluminum. Same goes for the radiator in the JTR kit, made for street use. However, if you are hell bent on your course, its your car and your money. I don't remember the size you need, but just measure the width between your frame rails and the opening of the core support from top to bottom and buy your radiator just a tad smaller so you have some wiggle room. Be sure to look at the overall measurements of the radiator (including tanks) you are looking to buy since sometimes just the core measurements are listed (measured without the tanks). Attached are some pics of my last Z car with a universal/generic circle track type aluminum radiator. I heli-arc welded two aluminum 90* bent pieces to the tanks, drilled holes in the core support, and bolted everything up. Hopefully you'll have better luck than I.

Oops, double post...

Bump any seat belt from a coupe from a late '74 to '78 will work....

I hate to be one of those guys that says "do a search", but this is a really easy one dude, especially if you've ever been to JCI's website (www.brokenkitty.com) or JTR's website (www.jagsthatrun.com). I am personally running the JTR aluminum radiator kit with my current LQ4 powered S30 along with a Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan (runs at 180 degrees all day in 100+ outside temps, even with stop and go traffic) and I've used the same kit in my last V8 powered S30 as well. It will serve your purpose with ease, no need to spend more money on a 'race' until IMO.

Fixed, sorry about that bro.

I am seriously considering ordering this kit and seeing if I can make something work for my S30 Z. Header Kit

Here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-Floor-Console-Black-Manual-Trans-NEW-/220614507207?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335da63ac7

I need the pieces that mate to the stub axles on the strut/wheel side. As I understand it, the pieces that come out of R200 are called output shafts which I don't need. $40 shipped sounds good. PayPal okay? If so, I'll need your PayPal/email address. EDIT: How is the dash in the '77 parts car? I don't need gauges, etc, etc.