Cable

Another run at the top...

Another run at the top for updates....

What is the difference between the two? Compressed length? Thanks!!

I was wondering the same thing.....

Update?

Looks great, love the blue paint.

Kris, did you get what you needed? I too am on the hunt for a pair now....

On Monday me and another friends of mine helped Hybrid member and friend (MilesZ) pull a R200 3.70 geared unit from a '86 300zx non-turbo out from a local wrecking yard and installed it the same day in his '73 240z. The ring and pinion seemed nice and tight to me and the oil was changed after install (80w-90), before running. Anyway, the R200 is quiet until 25 mph or so and then it starts to whine. Ideas/thoughts? Thanks!!

Still looking....

Yup, I need a pair of '75-'78 S30 280z companion flanges, these mate to the stub axles and have a 27 spline count. Price with shipping to Bakersfield, Ca. 93308 would be great.

The shop that did the porting should have a flow bench if they are claiming 300/230 cfm of flow, especially when using the stock 2.00/1.55" valves. Several well known LS1 speed part suppliers sell upgraded heads using LS1 castings and even though they are CNC ported (opposed to hand ported) and using larger than stock 2.02/1.57" valves, they don't reach 300/230 cfm's of flow @.600" of lift (296/220 cfm). I just hope you aren't a victim of a shop that thinks they don't need a flow bench to hit a certain flow number. Unfortunately visuals don't mean much in terms of flow. The GM oil pan/pickup/windage tray options are '98-'02 F-Body LS1 or '05-'07 Y-Body LS2. Although there are many years/makes/models that came with the T-56 and can be made to work with a S30/LSx/T-56 conversion, the easiest (and usually cheapest) options for doing a S30/LSx/T-56 conversion are the T-56's that came from the '98-'02 F-Body w/LS1 or '04-'06 GTO w/LS1 or LS2. Lastly, buying a pre-engineered kit is the way to go. Like you basically said, why re-invent the wheel? Plus building your own mounting kit might not work with the JTR headers you just bought. S30/LSx mounting kit options are easy since JTR does NOT make a mounting kit for the LSx series of engines, just GEN I and II SBC engines (its a common mistake since they sell Sanderson LSx swap headers intended for use with JCI's S30/LSx conversion mounting kit). JCI is the only company that produces S30/LSx mounting kit that I am aware of.

Nevermind, won't work guys. Thanks anyway.

I don't have a mint one, but a decent one for sale. Fleabay has NOS consoles that pop up from time to time.

Got a pic of the alternator with the trimming? Thanks!!

The JCI LSx mount position is NOT the same as the JTR SBC position. The JCI sits alittle farther forward. Even if the same driveshaft can be reused unmodified, you'll still have to drill new holes to move the crossmember to its new home. JTR? If so, it can be reused for the T-56. The 280z tanks are the best factory S30 to be used in EFI apps due to internal baffling. Just use a Walbro 255 inline pump in or near the stock location and you'll do fine. I've done more than a few, if you have anymore questions, please let me know.

I would also like to know this....

Hello, I am in need of a driver side 280z seat belt from a '75-'76 coupe ('77-'78 will not work nor will any 2+2). I would consider buying both sides if the price is right. Price with shipping to Bakersfield, Ca. 93308 would be great.

Cool, got flow numbers?

My 280z weighs 2700 lbs on the dot with a 6.0 iron block LQ4 w/aluminum heads, 4L60e trans, no bumpers, stock interior/suspension/brakes, and 16x8 002 Sportmax rims and 245/50/16 tires.

I am not sure of the brand. I bought it off eBay in 2006. Its a Z28 style 4" 'glass cowl riveted and bonded to my stock steel S30 hood with the inside cutout.

Ha! Prove it!!

Hello and welcome!! You are correct, the truck alternator will not clear the stock S30 hood. I am still running the truck alternator setup, however I am also running a cowl hood too. I too looked into the Kwik brackets and I don't think they will work either due to the alternator running into the driver side strut tower. Even if they did work, $200 is cheap for aftermarket brackets. Take a look at March or some others sometime and you'll think Kwik is dirt cheap. Also, most machine shops charge between $75-100 per hour and since they'll need to design, then fab the required pieces, you'll still be over $200 very quickly. Its not all lost though. '98-'02 F-Body accessory brackets work well to give you the required hood clearence. You'll need the following (new or used) F-Body pieces: -Front Alternator Bracket $30 GM 12563327 (Summit) -Rear Alternator Bracket $23 GM 12556915 (Summit) -Belt Tensioner $52 49296 GM 12560344 (Summit) -Idler Pulley $20 38006 (O'Reilly) -Balancer $60 RNB-594-127 (Summit) -Water Pump w/pulley $175 58563 (O'Reilly)

I am sure its possible, but you'll rattle all the fillings out of the teeth in your mouth in the process.

Crap, I was hoping not to spend that much or wait that long. Thanks anyway.

Or maybe you should get off your high horse and share the wealth.