Cable

If it was intended for a truck, then you will have to run the truck accessory drive unless you swap out the front nose/shaft on the supercharger to line up with your F-Body accessories. Hope that helps.

If you want A/C, the only setup I know that works is using a F-Body water pump, F-Body alternator brackets, and F-Body crank pulley along with JCI's A/C bracket. It is the only setup (I know of) that doesn't create hood or strut tower clearence problems. ...and the truck accessories are the most common.

Sounds like a cool project, although I can't help you much with most of the S130 questions as I don't think I've even sat in one. The lowest profile factory LSx oil pans are the '98-'02 F-Body and the Corvette LS2 oil pan (same pan the GM LS2 crate motor comes with). I have an 6.0 sitting on an engine stand for a customer, I will get those crankshaft/block centerline measurements ASAP. In the meantime, maybe these will help you:

Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/forum/10-brakes-wheels-suspension-and-chassis/

Um, wrong forum dude. This is for GEN III/IV V8 swaps, not 4.3 V6's....

Yes and the ends will need to be changed to the LS2 style knock and cam sensors. EDIT: Just noticed you edited you last post.... Yes that adapter will do nicely.

It can be made to work, but it'll need to be modified a bit. The knock sensors and cam sensor are in different locations and have different weather-connectors. Also the injector plugs are different. On the LS1 the the knock sensors are under the intake manifold and on the LS2 they are on the side of the block. The cam sensor on the LS1 is on the rear of the block just behind the intake manifold near the oil pressure sensor, on the LS2 it is on the front (timing) cover. The LS1 uses EV1 style injector plugs and the LS2 uses EV6 style injector plugs. They can be easily changed or several companies sell adapter plugs that go from EV6 to EV1 or visa-verse. If memory serves, the actual weather-connectors for all other sensors are the same between the two engines. Take care.

Updates?

I am running the Pro Stick with LSZ and it works great. I had to change the gate-plate though since I am running a 4L60e...

Not sure what you have read exactly, but all early LSx engines suffered from piston slap at colder temps, both aluminum and iron blocks. GM realized the problem and as far as I know it was a thing of the past by 2002. My 2005 LQ4 has no slap whatsoever and any temp that is detectable by ear or either of my knock sensors. BTW, even the aluminum blocks have pressed in iron sleeves so the expansion rate differences of cylinder walls would be nil between iron blocked LSx's and aluminum LSx's with pressed in iron sleeves. Sounds to me like what you read is another 'bias against iron block LSx' guy blowing smoke....

You already answered your own question, "Don't mix engine and vehicle classifications....". For the sake of not continuing to hijack this thread, start a new one or take it to PM.

Unless the car/truck is pre '66 you can never be totally exempt from California SMOG laws, regardless of the engine selection. The only way to avoid from having any trouble with a SMOG ref is to leave your S30 bone stock.

Although I am fairly sure I know the answer, I figured I'd see what others have to say just to be sure... The front end of my S30 is bone stock down to the oil dampers instead of strut inserts. The rear has Tokico Illumina's and TTT rear coilover kit with 300 in/lb springs. Right now with regular street tires my 60ft is 2.0 and ET is 12.2@116 mph. Due to the age of the dampers/oil the car tends to nose drive a bit during hard braking and there is very little bump resistance, especially with gutters and dips in the road. I am going to replace the oil damper setup with a pair Tokico HP's very soon. Here is my question: I already own a set of brand new Tokico front lowering springs and I am considering swapping out the stock coils during the strut change, however I worry my weight transfer will suffer due to the Tokico springs being shorter and my already lame 60ft time will get worse.... Any thoughts on this? The rest of the car setup is in my sig, any other questions, please ask. Thanks guys.

Like your '73 S30, my '75 S30 is except from SMOG/emissions testing in California. However, if ANY LEO decides to send me to a SMOG ref the game is up for using a truck motor (and many other reasons with my car and engine setup), it wouldn't pass the rest of the visual inspection either, not to mention the sniffer test with my cam and lack of CATS or any other type of emissions equipment. So to answer your question, it is not legal in California to place ANY truck motor in ANY year S30, even with all donor emissions equipment in place. The car could be blowing pure oxygen from the tailpipe(s) and will still fail based solely on the fact of using a truck motor. Even car type LSx's (LS1/LS2/LS4/LS6/LS7/LS9/LSA etc) swapped in a S30 would require ALL of the donor vehicle's emissions equipment to be 'black letter law' legal in California. A big misunderstanding with folks is just because '66-'75 cars/trucks are except from testing, doesn't mean its legal to modify and/or remove SMOG/emissions equipment. Its just that most LEO's don't even know that and the ones that do know 'black letter law' don't care enough to hassle you about it (unless you are being a Richard-Head ). In case I haven't made it clear in earlier posts, I love my 6.0 LQ4. It hauls the mail while getting damn near 30 mpg while driving faster than the speed limit. Although I want to make it clear that the 5.3 is a fine motor and placed in a S30 is a nice setup too, especially with a mild aftermarket cam or even '02+ LS6 cam. If I ever do another S30 for myself it'll be a cammed 5.3 with some type of power adder like nitrous and/or turbo down the road. In my area a 6.0 LQ4 costs twice as much as a LM7 5.3 (turnkey) and doesn't make that much more power vs a LQ4 6.0 to be worth it IMHO. If I didn't get my LQ4 for such a steal ($500), LSZ would be powered by a cammed LM7 from a rolled 2004 Escalade right now. Take care.

I know for sure that '98-'99 F-Body manifolds will work, done it for a customer trying to save a few bucks. I cut off the stock collector flanges and welded on a generic 3-hole for ease of making something that will bolt up to an exhaust.

You might have the wrong headers. I've done many LSx swaps into S30's using these headers (and JCI's mounting kit), including on my own S30, without a hint of the issues you are describing.

In my area they want just as much (if not more) for a L33 5.3 as they do for a LQ4 6.0. So unless 70 lbs was a huge factor, better to get the larger motor for less.

It'll work, but the sump will hang about 2" below the crossmember.

Not exactly an apples to apples comparo.... Change the cam and springs in an otherwise stock LM7 and it'll bury the combo you listed. Oh FYI... ALL SBC/BBC rods are forged steel. None ever came with cast rods....

That statement needs a lot of clarification on the sbc portion. Even then it depends which sbc you are talking about (displacement, year, compression, heads, etc) especially since there were MILLIONS built and installed from '55 to '99.

Not at all, I was being serious. I would love to be able to use a stock hood without having to change my whole accessory drive out.

If you are interested, I have a Holley Commander 700cfm TBI setup, brand new in the box. If you have found a alternator bracket setup that will lower the alternator mounting to allow use with a stock hood, won't run into the strut tower and will retain the rest of the truck accessories (water pump, crank pulley, tensioner, idler) I am very interested in hearing about it.

What year? I ask because if it a newer '93+ (4L60e) you'll need some type of computer to run the trans. If its an earlier, non-electronic version, then you are good with either carb or EFI as long as you are running a throttle cable style throttle body. The drive by wire (DBW) throttle body won't work with non-electronic automatic overdrive transmissions due to the lack of throttle linkage for the TV cable.

That's easy, an 850 Demon (or 850 anything) is too big even for a cammed 6.0 spinning to 7000 RPM. Plus, you can forget about any type of mileage with any type of race or even mechanical secondary (aka double-pumper) style carb. Another thing I forgot to mention about the nicer things about LSx EFI besides MPG: -Instant starts, regardless of outside ambient temp (freezing or hot) or engine temp -Instant throttle response, no lag after cam (most) swaps -No washing the cylinders down with raw fuel like carbs tend to, especially when overly rich -No fuel in your oil (see above) -PCM can self adjust/adapt to altitude and air density changes for optimum power and efficiency -Easier to adapt for nitrous, turbocharger(s), and/or supercharger (if desired) What transmission were you planning on running btw?

Who sells 280z subframe connectors these days?