Cable

Oh, I'm sorry

Why do you care little brother?

I have one too if interested.

Correct.

Digging up an old post, but could you post the plans for the adapter plate? Thanks!!

Any chance anyone is making these?

Bump....

Sold?

They do look nice, but if I had $1450-$1950 laying around I'd sooner spend it on a turbo setup for cheaper and for bigger gains...

I ended up going with a Lunati Voodoo cam, #60511 .567/.567" lift, 222/228 dur@.050", 113 LSA. Idles alittle bumpy, tons of power under the curve, pulls to 6500 RPM, etc. I am running a stock converter and knocked down a 12.20@115 mph with a crappy 2.3 second 60ft last Friday night on bald 245/50/16 street Kumho's. That was the first and only time this car has been to the track. If I had a few more runs I could of easily got the 60ft down and nailed at least a 11.9x. If I had some slicks or even drag radials, mid 11's wouldn't be too hard. Later down the road after I have slicks I'll add a 150 shot and get kicked off the track for running deep into the 10's w/o a roll bar/cage .

Just a short block for $600? I don't want to be a nay-sayer but if you have to buy heads, gaskets, harness, PCM, sensors, starter, alternator, water pump, crank pulley, accessory brackets, intake manifold, rails, injectors, MAF, etc, etc, its going to cost a small fortune to piece it all together. I always tell my customers to stray away from 'deals' like this because in the end its going to nickel and dime you to the point past where you could of bought a turn key motor with everything for more initial cost, but far cheaper in the end. 5.3's can be had turn key for $600 (or less) these days and make almost, if not the same power a stock LS1 does. Regardless, welcome to the dark-side and enjoy your project.

Just like the title says, price with shipping to Bakersfield, Ca. 93308. Should look like this: Thanks guys!!

Another run at the top... I have an LS1 intake/rails/injectors on my 6.0 truck motor using the truck accessories. I had to do some cutting of the alternator bracket, ditched the idler, and ran a '97 Corvette water pump with the bolt on (not pressed on) pulley, spaced it out about .75" and everything was good to go.

Wrong forum because JTR only makes Gen I/II SBC mounts and no they wouldn't work anyway, completely different car.

That looks about right, but I ditched my charcoal canister. Here's mine installed: The caption is wrong. If the tank/pump had a built in regulator, then why is there a return line on the stock pickup? You wouldn't need a return line if everything was built it.... This is the filter/regulator I am using: http://www.amazon.com/Wix-33737-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B000C9UJUU It is located in my engine bay, but not on the fuel rail. It has a 3/8" inlet/outlet and a 5/16" return. The LS1/LS6 returnless fuel rail have a small device on them that many mistake as a fuel pressure regulator, its not. It is a damper to smooth out any pulses. BUT, before you go any farther, just like m1noel and myself have already stated, you need to find out what your fuel pressure is at the rail with the system pressured BEFORE doing anything else and possibly buying something you don't need. We can guess about this until we are blue in the face or die of old age, but the end result is the same, get a fuel pressure reading at the rail (Its stupid simple to do this, ALL LSx EFI motors have a schrader valve on the rail to check system fuel pressure), post the results, and we'll go from there.

Sounds like an echo from my first reply to this thread....

6 month update.... I installed a MSA II Front Air Dam, AutoMeter Sport-Comp Speedometer and Tachometer, and did the car LS1 Intake (soon replaced with a LS6 intake) using truck alternator and crank pulley. Had to do some cutting of the alternator bracket and removal of the idler pulley altogether the make the intake swap work and I also used a '97 Corvette water pump with the bolted on (not pressed on) pulley so I could space it out .75" to line up with the truck crank pulley, alternator pulley, and truck tensioner.

Another run at the top....

As far as I know, there is no regulator in the LS1 Camaro gas tank. I too am running a LS1 Camaro tank with the stock pump, but I am running a stock '00-'04 Corvette filter/regulator (Wix #33737, priced under $50). I'd be willing to bet the reason you are running rich is because you do not have a regulator at all right now. Best thing to do is check the fuel pressure at the rail, the car does not need to be running, just make sure the system is pressurized. If you have more than 58-59 psi at the rail then you have too much pressure.

True, the 3.6 and the 6.2 share the same engine space in the Camaro and the CTS, but that's where the similarities end. They do not interchange any major parts or mounting hardware whatsoever.

I just gotta ask if this is a 'dare to be different' thing. If so, I can respect and understand that (see past projects of mine and customers). If not, consider a few things.... The cost/hassle would be pretty extreme from fabbing mounts, stand alone pcm/harness, and let's not even get into headers/exhaust. I am sure its all do-able, just a matter of cost (I am always down for a challenge like this btw). I have a warmed over 6.0 LSx/LQ4 w/4L60e in my Z (see sig for details). I get 32 mpg doing 80+ mph all day long. I seriously doubt the 3.6 will do any better in an already light platform. Yes, the crank and rods are forged, but all Chevy V8's have always had forged rods since '55. The forged crank is a nice thing to put on paper, but is really just selling point in a motor that is barely pushing past 300 HP. Stock LSx cast cranks are good to 600+, and I've read a few breaching the 1000+ mark with stock cast cranks. I do like the DOHC, VVT, and direct injection though, but is it really that important in the grand scheme of things? Only you can answer that my friend. I do motor swaps with all kinds of motor/trans into any type of cars/trucks for customers. This what used to be a part time, 'on the side thing' has turned into a full time thing. Take care and feel free to PM with any questions.

Hey Miles, we talked about this on Friday, remember buddy? Read this, I posted it last year wondering the samething: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/1206398-98-02-f-body-gas-tank-auto-meter-fuel-gauge.html What it boils down to is we'll both have to use something that is programmable. I was thinking of something like this in a A-pillar pod along with a air/fuel gauge: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-6310/

Any shop with a mandrel bender. Stainless w/a flex joint/coupler(s) would be ideal.

http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

Oh well, I guess I'll just stick with 300 in/lbs coilover spring rates to prevent the rubbing. Thanks anyway guys.