Cable

What was your 60ft with the latest turbo setup? Still running the same slicks? What mufflers are you running btw?

Any signs of spark knock during the runs? Maybe just a popped head gasket? Complete long block LQ4's aren't hard to find. A couple of buddies have bought a few decent long blocks from LKQ.com cheaper than most Craigslist ads. Find a good long block, swap to a turbo friendly cam ('02-'04 LS6 cams work great w/boost), and hold on for dear life.

Oh come on!! No times at all?

If that's really it, then your intercooler is doing a great job especially for a air to air unit using a turbo that is on the smaller side for 5.7 litre V8. Sounds like a great combo to me.

Any idea what your intake temps are at full boost? Thanks!!

http://www.racetep.com/zfront.html

Another run at the top....

I am just speaking for myself, but an old rhetorical question of my grandfather comes to mind: "Why build a rocketship when an airplane will do?" Regardless, sounds like you'll have a unique car when its all said and done.

I know they will clear the vented/Toyota rotor setup with a 15x5", 3.5" BS Draglite. So I would think the 15x4" with 2.25" of BS would be okay.

I would go with an in-line pump like a Walbro 255. They can be had all day on eBay for $100 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GENUINE-WALBRO-255-inline-FUEL-PUMP-GSL392-with-install_W0QQitemZ280456952505QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414c897ab9). I ran one in my '69 C10 with the 5.3. I still have it if you are interested, $50. As far as your fuel pressure regulator, a stock '00-'04 Corvette fuel pressure regulator would work just fine. Give me a call this weekend and I'll help you get everything sorted out for as cheap as possible. But this is pretty easy stuff and your whole car can be plumbed for way less than $400.

If that lever is all the way it can go counter-clockwise, then it is in 1st gear. Then going one click clockwise would be 2nd gear and so on until you get to the 7th detent or all the way clockwise and then you are in Park. All 4L60/4L65/4L80/4L85 transmissions (doesn't matter the app) have a manual gear selection for all 4 forward gears built into the transmission even if the factory shifter has the doesn't provision for selecting all the forward gears. For example, automatic 4th Gen F-Body cars would not allow the driver to select 1st gear with the factory automatic shifter. Does that answer your question?

Another run at the top.....

It wasn't that hard with the correct tools. We didn't even need to take off Miles' hood to do the swap. We started on a Saturday morning around 10am, stopped around 3pm for the day and started up again on Sunday morning around 8am and had it back together and ready to run by 11am. That was including a few hangups that came along the way.

It should fit, especially after a few well placed hits with a dead-blow hammer. I believe the reason it isn't offered on the manual trans cars/trucks (among other reasons) is because in order for the DoD to work correctly there is some type of harmony that must take place with the auto trans to make it all work. I hate to say this, but if you are looking for all-out fuel economy you are in the wrong hobby.

If its brand new and less than $80, then its prob worth it. If they are asking for more than I'd pass. There are much newer and better cam designs out these days. That cam prob cam out in the late '70's.

You make your own using gaskets as a template or cut the stock collectors off and weld on a typical 3 bolt flanged type. The '98-'99 manifolds are steel, not cast iron so they are easier to weld.

How much do you think you picked up with the 5.3 heads?

I don't think any mods are needed to make the '98-'99 F-Body manifolds work. I mocked them up in my S30 too. I have a pair if you are interested in them, $100 shipped. They haven't been run since they've been blasted, all SMOG lines welded shut and painted/cured with a high temp ceramic paint.

No, but thanks anyway.

I am surprised you aren't getting flamed for not searching first. These are very commonly asked and answered questions. I believe your father contacted me on LS1Tech.com about most of these questions which I answered. He also asked me about my '98-'02 F-Body gas tank. Like many others with S30 LSx V8 swaps, I have Sanderson swap headers that can only be bought through JTR (http://www.jagsthatrun.com), you cannot buy them directly from Sanderson. Stock '98-'99 F-Body LS1 manifolds will also work if you are looking to save some coin initially, but they are not optimum for performance (which I am sure you already know). JCI (http://www.brokenkitty.com) also sells swap headers that he has made through a supplier. He also sells the only known S30 LSx engine swap kit along with a few extra goodies. You can buy a header flange kit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-11495) for around $200 from companies like Summit Racing, but you need to have access to a mandrel bender, have very good fab skills, and still need to buy tubing and merger collectors. After its all said and done, you'd prob to be better off with headers offered from JTR or JCI that have all the engineering and fab work already done. I hope this helps. If you any any more questions, feel free to PM me personally. Take care.

There are plenty of cams that you can run that are (imo) boarder line too wild for anything driven on the street besides to the local cruise spot. This is a classic example of bigger isn't always better. Engine size also plays a role in what cam is best suited for you 'ideal' setup, the same cam will be milder in a 6.0 vs a 5.7 LS1. The Edelbrock Pro-Flo intake manifold is VERY tall, so tall that I worry it wouldn't clear my 4" cowl on my hood. Sorry I don't have actual dyno numbers for you. The primary reason I haven't bothered is dyno numbers don't mean squat to me other than bragging rights. But just to be clear, I am sure others have their car(s) dyno'd for reasons other than bragging rights. My car has a 'canned' tune, it runs strong, its not a daily driver nor a race car, so the 'canned' tune is good enough for me. As far as us LQx guys chiming in with x combo making y rwhp, good luck as I don't think there are more than a few of us on Hybridz. However, there are more than a few LS1 guys with combos and dyno numbers on Hybridz, that should at least give you a good idea just with a slightly smaller motor. If you search over at LS1Tech.com I am sure you'll find hundreds of LQx combos with their dyno numbers to help you out.

I am sure 'ideal' will vary from person to person. It all depends on your goals and primary purpose(s) for the car. For example, I think my cam is ideal for my 6.0 (see sig). I don't daily-drive the car (but I could if I so desired). As far as my 'ideal' intake I would lean toward the new Edelbrock Pro-Flo XT manifold, but most guys (especially S30 guys wanting to retain the stock flat hood) would prob favor the GM LS6 intake manifold or maybe even a FAST intake manifold. Right now I am still running the stock truck intake and apart from being ugly as sin, it gets the job done.

I am confused on your quarter mile goals..... As far as the 383 combo, I started a '70's 350 block casting, 2 bolt main with studs, bored and honed to 0.030" with a deck plate, zero decked, line-honed, GM 5.7" 'Pink' rods w/ARP Wave-Loc bolts, SCAT cast steel stroker crank, Speed-Pro 9.5:1 CR pistons, moly rings, internally balanced, GM Vortec heads with stock size [stainless] valves, 3-angle valve job, some minor short-side radias porting and the bowls and chambers were mirror polished w/sanding rolls, Fel-Pro .040" MLS head gaskets, Summit hyd flat tappet cam kit (K1105 .465/.488" lift, 224/234 dur @.050", 114 LSA), stock rocker arms, hardened pushrods, 'Z28' .500" valve springs, stock retainers, Performer RPM intake, Holley 700cfm DP, billet HEI w/50k 'Flamethrower' coil, 1 5/8" ceramic coated block hugger headers, dual 2.5" exhaust into a single 3" muffler in the stock location. If I were to build it again today, I'd go with a newer Lunati Voodoo Hyd cam and a set of long tube headers. Another member here (http://forums.hybridz.org/member.php?u=31079) used a set of Sanderson headers intended for a '35 Ford (w/SBC) on his recent 327 SBC S30 swap and only had to bend them slightly to work in the S30 chassis. I'd bet the long tube headers are worth 15-20 HP over the block huggers too. Take care.

I think it was asked earlier, but have you ever even rode in a car with that much power to weight ratio? Not to mention driven one? I don't mean to be a prick, but you may be getting over your head. I've owned several 'quick' cars, including 2 S30's with 3 different V8 engine swaps (GEN I 383 sbc, Mark IV 454 BBC, and GEN III 6.0 LQ4). The 383 was the most mild and still ran 12.2 all motor and 10.9 on a 150 shot. My latest S30 has a bone stock 2005 LQ4 6.0 with a mild cam. I've never dyno'd it, but I'd venture its making just under 400HP to the rear wheels. My point is you don't need to spend $5k to get what you want. I am a speed junkie and my current S30 has more than enough power for the car, I can drive it anywhere, get good mpg and great street manners and the best part is I don't have $1500 in the long block (including the new Voodoo cam, new LS6 yellow springs, and new hardened pushrods). I highly doubt you'll get the same power and manners out of the built 443HP 383. Plus, I've always been warry of shop built 'crate engines'...... Just something to keep in mind.

The 317 aluminum heads found on the LQ4/LQ9 are far superior to any stock LS1 head (basically a LS6/LS2 head w/larger chambers), plus the larger bore of the 6.0 over the LS1 is better for valve unshrouding too.