Cable

What kind of mpg are you avg? Thanks!!

That tip on the Magnaflow is what is going to make it louder than it normally would be. As far as the x-pipe muffler, I have one on my 2000 Escalade and its mellow all the time until I smash the go pedal, then its another story....

Update... Looks like I am going with a LQ4 6.0 afterall. Its just a long block, the donor it came out of was in a fire and cooked the intake, sensors, bearings, and some rust is now present in most of the cylinders. It needs a rebuild, but more or less the long block will remain stock. I'll still end up 'stealing' all the EFI stuff off the 5.3 in my truck after the 6.0 has been freshened up. Another member is also selling me a low mileage '03 LS6 cam and springs, so that'll end up in there too for another 40+HP over the stock LQ4 cam. If I get near 400 HP/TQ N/A I'll be a happy camper and so will my Z. Then the nitrous will be added down the road.

Thank you for your response. Buying the correct compressor is a non-issue, its usually R-134 that will eat seals and hoses. Regardless I will make sure it is compatible with either refrigeration gas. As stated earlier, I am using everything S30, minus the compressor. I do not have the stock S30 compressor nor would I use one anyway. Compressor tech has jumped quite a bit in terms of efficiency over the last few decades. Plus it would a royal pain to fad a bracket to use a S30 compressor on my LSx, especially the pulley. Thanks for the suggestions though. Hmm, you make a very good point. I don't have the louvered cover on the rear glass, but I will be using 5% limo tenting on the rear glass and quarter windows and 45% door glass (I know its illegal). I shouldn't have to much trouble with the car already being hot since it is garaged. So I wouldn't be cooling down an already super hot car that's been baking in the sun, just keeping it cool for driving down the road. Thanks again for the replies guys!!

-F-Body LS1 oil pan or LS2 Corvette oil pan -LS1 Swap Headers -JTR SBC Engine Mount Kit (for a different Z, not mine) -JTR Crossmember Spacers -'02+ LS6 Camshaft -Yellow LS6 Springs However, I also need these added to the existing list: -Drivers and passenger doors with regulators -Decent 280z Dash without gauges

Hey guys, my '75 280z is a factory A/C car. It wasn't working when I bought the car, so I have no idea. I am in the process of swapping in a late model LSx into the car and wouldn't mind hooking up the factory A/C back up and use it to keep me from sweating so much in Bakersfield's 110 degree Summers. I was considering an aftermarket setup that would replace everything, including the controls. However, I want to keep the interior of my Z looking as stock as possible, although under the hood is a completely different direction. More or less I want everything looking as stock as possible, before opening the hood. Anyway, I already sourced the compressor and bracket I am going to use with the LSx, so no worries there. I plan on using a stock condenser and all the stock A/C pieces under the dash, including the controls. I even plan on using R-12 since I have over 25 lbs of it in storage. Since everything will be the way Nissan designed and installed it, it should work basically the same as the factory setup, except with the use higher efficiency compressor. So my original question remains, how good was the factory A/C in these cars? Thanks guys!!

What are your cam specs? What intake are you running? Slicks or street radials? Thanks!!

Pics?

Nevermind....

If you want the cheapest/quickest option, find a '72-'78 Z with the R180 and just take the mustache bar and swap it into your car. It will move your R180 back 1.5". Then your JCI driveshaft will fit just fine. I agree with the others that you'll want the R200 in the long run. I've broken R180's with a stock L24 and a few clutch drops. However my stock, long nose R200 in BBZ lasted through a mild 383 sbc and a brute torque monster 454 bbc for several years before it died. Regardless you don't want to continue to run your R180 in the current forward position, Nissan moved it back in '72 because the angle was wearing out axle u-joints in fast hurry.

Don't know yet, I'll be posting my findings soon.

No, I am planning on fabbing some very similar to the type I used with my last Z that had a BBC 454 installed. They are very close to JTR sbc mounts, albeit the design is modified for my purposes. Mine won't have near as much extra bracing like JCI's either, Plan B: If my custom mounts don't work like I planned then I will end up using JCI's kit anyway in which case the F-Body headers will very likely not work in the slightest.

Assuming Famoso will actually do some track prep, I don't see any reason you won't run at least in the low 11's after you get used to launching the car with slicks on a sticky track. Good luck and be safe my friend.

Has any tried to see if '98-'02 F-Body long tube headers will work with S30 LSx swaps? I own a '69 Chevy C10 that I swapped a LSx into. I couldn't find ANY headers that were listed as being a direct fit with the LSx swap. So I bought the tightest tucking off the shelf headers I could find. In this case, '98-'02 F-Body headers. They weren't a direct fit, I had to move the collectors a bit and re-locate both O2 sensor bungs (one per header), but I didn't have to touch any of the primary tubes (except minor dinging). I rough measured my 280z's frame rails and I have them at about 25" apart. My truck's frame rails vary from position, mostly narrowing as they move toward the firewall. Regardless the widest it gets is about 23" at its widest point. That gives me an inch more wiggle room on each side in the Z. I also measured how low they hang below the engine block pan rail, the lowest point hangs at about 5.5-6.0". As a point of reference, '98-'02 F-Body oil pans hang 5.00" inches below the engine block pan rail. So if they did fit in the engine bay, they would still hang 1" (at most) below the oil pan using a F-Body oil pan in their LSx swaps (most do). I can live with that because I'd rather something smack the headers before slamming into the oil pan anyway. If no one else has attempted this, I don't mind be the first. I will keep you guys posted, I am hopefully going to have my L28/5-Speed out this weekend (still looking for help..) and have the LSx/4L60e in its place by July 12th. Questions? Otherwise stay tuned......

Digging up an old thread.... I didn't find what I was looking for on a search.... I am swapping in a 5.3 LM7, I am going to use the factory radiator for the time being, what hoses to I use to hook up the 5.3 to the stock 280z radiator? Thanks!!

Gotcha, what's the performance difference?

I am considering adding a BRE style rear spoiler to my 280z, however I will not be running a rear bumper of any kind. I have seen plenty of 240z/280z's with the BRE spoiler, but they've all had the factory bumpers too. So, anyone got a pic(s)? Thanks!!

-F-Body LS1 oil pan or LS2 Corvette oil pan -LS1 Swap Headers -B&M Pro-Stick Shifter (auto) -JTR SBC Engine Mount Kit (for a different Z, not mine) -JTR Crossmember Spacers -JTR Transmission Mount -'02+ LS6 Camshaft -Yellow LS6 Springs -2 16x8 Sportmax Silver Rims -245/50/16 Tires -Front Strut Bar -Rear Strut Bar

Exactly how do you tell a webbed vs. a non-webbed intake?

Same as above. Thanks guys!!

Cool deal. I bought another Z and want to keep the interior looking mostly stock this time around.

Cool, what did you use for a speedo?

So what did you end up doing?

EDITED: Here you go....

Its true, after selling BBZ (Big Block Chevrolet 454 powered 1975 280z) to another HybridZ member last August I have been without a Z car. I vowed to return with another S30 and so I have. Earlier today I picked up a 1975 Datsun 280z for little more than a song. It appears bone stock except for a set of aluminum vintage Enkei 14" wheels (they look just like old school 2-piece Centerlines). It also has the factory R200 and optional 5-speed tranny. So, the plan is to yank the low mileage 5.3 LSx (from a 2004 Escalade) and 4L60e (from a 2004 GTO) from my '69 Chevy C10 and transplant them into my newest edition. The EFI combo is already to go since it was modified for stand-alone operation. This car is nicknamed LSZ. While the motor is out I might swap out the stock cam in favor of a LS6 cam or maybe something alittle larger if funds allow. Ultimately the car will have a 100-150 HP wetshot of nitrous. LSZ itself will soon be receiving a few personal touches as well. First on the list is to ditch the huge and heavy 5 mph bumpers. Next the remaining carpet and insulation will get removed, floors cleaned and covered with POR paint, and depending on how bad the seats are (currently hidden under seat covers) they may get recovered or trashed in favor of something else. Just like BBZ, LSZ's body will be shaved of all chrome side trim, marker lights, emblems, antenna hole, etc. Although I might add a GM emblem 'LSx' to the fenders or hood after paint in the distant future. Also is the return of BBZ's 4" cowl hood. BBZ's owner doesn't care for it, so we've made an arrangement for me to purchase it back. The cowl hood will hopefully allow me to keep the truck intake (for the time being) and still close the hood. I also might add a BRE style spoiler, time will tell. Unlike BBZ, I would like to keep a 'stock' feel with the interior with LSZ. BBZ was more toward a race type interior down to no carpet, coverless racing shifter, and Auto Meter Sport-Comp gauges throughout. I think this time I'll keep LSZ with the stock gauges (albeit modified for use with the LSx electronics) and most of the stock type interior minus an aftermarket shifter and stereo. Then of course as time passes and funds allow, LSZ will receive many of the same upgrades that BBZ received like Q45 R200 with Moser Axles and CV's, coilover suspension, Toyota 4x4 brakes, larger/wider rims and tires, and unlike BBZ under my ownership, paint and maybe A/C. Questions/comments? Thanks for reading guys!!