jbc3

Thanks.... now I have to take you all on a ride on the spray

I am not using a large video recorder, it is just a Fuji A900 pocket digital camera. It records to an SD card. Throw it in video mode, clip it on to the roll bar and go. The rattling you hear in the video is actually the camera itself. I am thinking of putting or mounting a piece of soft foam on the roll bar where I clip the mount on to help buffer the vibrations. See my previous post about foot resting on the clutch... not an issue.

I have a Mcleod street twin clutch and a 1 1/8" Tildon master cylinder in this car. Pushing the clutch in takes serious effort, but I can easily chirp the 295/50/16 tires in 5th gear (that is a .76 overdrive gear for those not familiar with the T56), so it does not slip. I can more than rest my foot on the clutch and still not have any slipping, even on the spray (589 ft lbs TQ). I have driven several cars, my neighbor's BMW Z4 for example, and a slight breeze on the clutch pedal will cause it to slip. Definitely not the case with my set-up.

124 in the 1/4 on that run. The springs on the wipers are tired and barely stay put, even on the highway.... they need to be replaced. I usually take them off at the track. Fortunately, I don't drive it in the rain.

After watching big Phil's driving videos, I thought I'd post a couple of ride videos I have from last summer. A short ride on a 25 mph country mountain road and a traction limited ride down the 1/4. I made a clip on camera mount and decided to try it out. It picks up a little too much vibration, and I can not see the screen to adjust the view.... but it turned out ok Jody http://videos.streetfire.net/video/369e2f13-b8c2-4ab6-a453-9a2b0024e89c.htm By the way, the speedo is accurate and I usually leave the shift light at only 6400 for street driving.

When you get the teflon lined braided lines, you have to have the Parker fittings crimped on at the Parker facility. I had female AN fittings crimped on and used the various aluminum Earls fittings to make alot of my connections. The hoses and fittings are not cheap, but well worth it. The Earls, Aeroquip, Russell and Summit lines are all rubber lined. Jody Thanks.... it's a ton of fun to drive

I have used the Earls, Summit and Aeroquip lines and after awhile they all began to smell right through the braid. I even called each of them and asked if their lines were a problem and each of them all said that they had never heard of this problem. If you keep the car in a closed garage attached to the house and run pump gas in your car, you will notice the smell. I ultimately went to my local Parker fitting supplier and had them make up teflon lined braided lines and have never had another problem. Jody

I would guess that you would be around 300 flywheel and if you are running no cats, maybe add another 5 or so. Jody

I just installed one stop per side. No problems (related to the stops). Jody

They press in... and they are TIGHT. You might try putting the stop in the freezer and heating the CV. I struggled with mine also, and I have a press. Jody

Had you thought of making the hole larger??? Less work and no worries about cutting the harness. You could get a large rubber or plastic hole plug to seal the harness. Just a thought. Jody

There are many ways to skin a cat.... There is an adapter to allow one to run large injectors with the stock LT1 computer. http://www.acceleronics.com/ The Acceleronics Versafuler adapter will allow you to run huge low impedance injectors. There are plenty of people running big horsepower with the stock computer, the MAF and both with and without ( Deltaq ) the complete opti. The down side of the stock computer is that it does not understand boost...but it's still very doable. The other problem is the stock computer can not manage the ignition past 7K RPMs. I have a friend that is running in excess of 20 lbs boost on his LT1. The MAF will max out (reading range) at ~4000 RPMS and the fuel is added in the power enrichment map. I have had my stock optispark for well over 100K without any problems... and I spin my motor to nearly 7K frequently.... very frequently! I have heard people complain about the opti, but I have never had any issues. I have heard people say that the opti flys apart at high RPM... I have tried for over 10 years to blow one up... hasn't happened yet. Jody

The dry shot I use (NOS 5176, LT1 125Hp dry kit) has a solenoid that increases the fuel pressure to compensate for the nitrous, by bleeding nitrous pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. The less bottle pressure, the less nitrous into the motor and the less FP increase. It is proportional. The LS1, thru the MAF, dry kit has the MAF adjust the fuel. The more it sees, the more fuel is added by the computer... similar in the fact that it is proportional. The LS1 fuel pump/regulator maintains a constant FP, and can not be adjusted like the LT1 set-up. IMO, .003 increase in a nitrous jet is not significant and is not giving you that much more flow to notice. The only issue would be if your GTO was highly modded and you were already near or past the limit of the MAF. I have seen people take a dry kit with a .67 nitrous jet and replace it with a .90 and get away with it... a different guy has a melted head to show for his jet testing. Short answer to your question... safe; Yes. Good idea; shrug. Worth the effort; No. Get the bottle heater and move on. The reason the bottle pressure is so important in a wet kit, is the fuel pressure is constant, making the fuel added with a nitrous kit a constant. If your bottle pressure goes down, less nitrous is added throwing off the optimum balance. Jody

Which T56 are you running? The LT1 (93-97) has an external slave and the LS1 has the internal slave (between the trans housing and pressure plate, on the shaft) Neither of which should grind if you are not getting enough fluid from the stock Zcar MC. As far as bleeding the MC and SC, (I have the LT1, external slave and Tilton MC) I simply disconnected the SC and worked it by hand several times. I have my clutch pedal adjusted so there is no play. If you are using the LT1 SC, make sure you have the proper spacer plate in between the SC and the bellhousing. Jody

No, I bought a new cover and rear cover studs from the local dealership (The cover took them 2 weeks to get.) and I reinforced the frame holding the front mount. Haven't had a problem with the rear and mounts since. Holy crap, I just looked at the dates on my original post and it was 2 years ago this happened. Time really flies. Jody

Bart, If you are still having issues, and the O2's seem to be stable, look at your MAF. Did someone port the MAF, de-screen it or take out the center section? If they did, it could be causing you some issues. You could also try cleaning the MAF with contact cleaner. I ported and de-screened my MAF, but I have heard that some people have had issues after doing it. Lastly on the MAF, if you know someone local to you with an LT1, try their MAF. Occasionally I have had issues where the car just doesn't seem to run well and I look in the throttle body and you can see it's all black. A good dose of TB cleaner and all is good. I am guessing, large cam, lots of reversion and it causes exhaust deposits in the intake track. Jody

To do any of these swaps right, it is not cheap. I went with a 385 stroker LT1. I prefer the fuel injection and computer control for all around drivability. I like driving mine around on the street, with A/C, as well as racing it. It is still basically a SBC as far as the physical install... with a few more wires. A laptop, LT1-edit or Tunercat and Datamaster are your friend. Many people here did their own wiring harness conversions, and others (myself included) sent the stock LT1 harness out to be modified. The information you need is here, just buried in the searches. Search for the LT1 people and then search their posts. Jody

I would agree that getting Tunercat/LT1-edit is the way to go. If you have issues and don't understand how to disable or reconfigure something, there are plenty of people on the list that you could e-mail your PCM file to and get help. As far as an autometer speedometer and turn signals... look at post #16 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101620 Jody

It figures.... I should have kept my mouth shut! Jody

I always find these discussions interesting... I am still using the stock, factory original, '96 opti. (Hopefully I don't jinx myself) Mine has over 120K miles on it, and I frequently take it well over 6500 rpms. I have taken it apart to see what condition the cap and rotor are in several times over it's life (various rebuilds/mods etc...) and it still looks great. I am careful about spraying water directly on the opti, and especially when it is hot, but the motor (when it was in my Camaro) saw plenty of bad weather driving. Maybe it is beause I always drove the car regularly and it usually doesn't sit for long periods of time. The motor that is in my 280Z is the original motor that was in my 96 Z28 that I bought new in 96 Maybe one day I'll break down and buy a new one Jody

4th gear. That is what you want. Something is wrong with your car, I cruise in 6th at ~85mph at 2K rpms. Jody

Read post #23 in this thread. He's watching! Stony is right, these axles were put to the test. My car weighs 3010, I am 200lbs... and there were a bunch of 1.4x launches. Drag racing is very hard on drivetrain parts and without changing the rear, there is probably nothing stronger at this point. My (non scientific...without detailed measured proof) opinion is the shock of the launch is the killer of these axles and those on the road course are not going to see the same fate. If you are truly worried, pull the axles and look at them before your event. My unbroken axle was twisted and it was clear that there was something going on. I would suspect that I had been driving on twisted axles for some time.

UPS dropped off my new stub axles today. Got home from work and before dinner I was cruising around the neighborhood. Just in time... there is a car show in my local town tomorrow and the Mid Atlantic Shindig is next week. Thanks Ross! Jody

Glad to hear you survived..... I am sure I am not the only one to have see a towing mishap or two. Several years ago while coming home from vacation on 95N in Virginia, I saw a small SUV (I think it was an Amigo) pulling about a 12' enclosed U-Haul. Both the SUV and trailer were way overloaded. The tail of the Amigo was dragging and the trailer was swaying. I told my wife and kids, "watch this idiot, the faster he goes, the more he sways" We crested a hill and began going down hill, He just kept pushing it, so I stayed behind him. We hit about 75mph and the trailer was swaying so much, he began to spin 360's down 95. After about 4 complete spins, the trailer flipped over, twisted the hitch off the Amigo, dumped his stuff everywhere and he was able to stop the SUV without flipping it, even after being up on 2 wheels twice. I think he was lucky to be alive. Seeing a truck and trailer spin at that speed was quite a sight! Fortunately everyone else around him saw what was about to happen, so they backed off too, and he didn't take anyone else out with him. I guess he couldn't read the "MAX SPEED 45 MPH" signs on the fenders, or he didn't know what to do when he felt the trailer swaying all over the road for the past 10 miles or more. All too many times you see people dragging overloaded junk down the road with vehicles that should not be towing. Balancing the load, not overloading your rig, getting the tongue weight right and having safe equipment is so important.

In 93 there were 2 6 speed trannys. M-28 and the M29. They will both fit the 95 LT1. The 99 will not. The LS1 transmissions have a different front plate, the input shaft is longer and the clutch TOB is different. The gears on the M28 are 336-207-135-1-.8-.62 1-2 is a big drop The gears on the M29 are 297-207-143-1-.8-.62 These are nice. The 94-97 M6 gears are 266-178-130-1-.74-.5 The 94-97 transmissions are supposed to hold up to more torque than the earlier models. I personally would like to have the M29, if it were stronger, I like the .8-.62 OD. Jody