Owen

Thanks! That reduces my To Buy list by $30 or so. Owen

Oh, then I have the barrel lock type. I'm not keyless even though I have power locks, and I want to get power door poppers too and just leave the stock door handles. I like the chrome You could always have an external port/cable, some thing dropping down from the trunk floor, I am thinking of something like that to charge or jump my battery without having to open the trunk and the battery box. Just make sure it's hidden. Of if you have a backup battery for your car alarm, that might work. Owen

Ya mon, its an Aussie term. I was talking to the guys at Haltech in Australia and it took me a while to figure it out. I agree on the Zed, what the heck is it, how do you pronounce it, and where did it come from??? Owen

These things go in the drainback in the heads right? They make sense, but don't you also have to keep checking them to make sure they aren't clogged? If they are, you've got a problem but at least you've isolated it to the heads. The restrictors, I assume, simply restrict oil from building up in the heads. And the vent tubes...do these work? Waste of money for a street car? I think the screens would be good insurance though. Owen

Are you putting in bigger injectors just to do it or are you doing it because you made engine mods? It all depends on what you did too. I think some people can get by just by increasing the fuel pressure (not too much) with an adjustable regulator. Owen

Don't know the spline count but all early Zs are the same. They changed with the 280ZX and are most likely different from the 300ZX as well. You could always make an adapter, just drill new holes in the 240Z one. Owen

Haven't been able to find anything so far. I coulda sworn I had a magazine with this info but I can't find it.... Owen

Is Desktop Dyno2000 worth getting? It's not too expensive and there's also a CD with a bunch of camshaft data in it. I'm still poor and couldn't find any bootleg versions on the net...Jegs sells it too I think. Owen

I've never used the DZ3, never even heard of it...but PPGs epoxy primer is pretty damn thick. Too hard to block sand though. If you're using this as a surfacer, and you didn't mess it up, you shouldn't have to be sanding it is my guess. Owen

It's a custom grind and I just wanted to double check the specs. If it's 440 lift, 208deg@0.050 and 112LSA, can I find out what overlap and intake centerline are? Thanks, Owen

1)Are the right and left inner cv`s the same? +++Yes, shafts are different lengths though. 2)How much $$ are the companion flange adaptors? +++Depends on where you get them made 3)Has anyone here succesfully completed the swap? +++Mark Wicard, me, Tim240Z 4)Has anyone designed and built the mounts and mustache bar needed for the swap? +++We all have different designs on the mounts. The must. bar is redrilled (use an R200 unit). The rear brace can be bought from someone here. 5)would the companion flange adaptors hold up to 800 rwhp? +++I've rolled my car back and forth out of the garage and they seemed ok I don't know. Owen

How much to spend...well you'll get numbers across the board on that one! And you'll also get asked what you want to do with the car. The LT1 swap is getting popular, I have a 383 aftermarket EFI + T56 6-speed. Altering the engine, trans, rad, and electricals are probably the bare minumums + exhaust. But, bigger wheels = coilovers, more power = stronger diff, rollcage, subframe connectors, new floors, etc. etc. etc. Take a look at everyone's websites so you can get an idea of how far you wanna go. Owen

I've personally never had trouble with them except for waiting a long time for an order they say they have in stock. One guy was nice enough to pull a part off a car in the back and sell it to me. I agree they're very expensive though. Hiromi is still waiting for a part he ordered in March or April... Owen

I think Carl meant don't use laq. primer to primer, but I meant, use it as a guide coat. You definitely want to use a quality, maybe even high build primer for your coating. Owen

Damn, $500 with a 3 bar sensor...can't compete with that! These systems are fully programmable and can be swapped from engine to engine as long as the right sensors and injector harness is used. Owen

If I have a degree wheel and dial indicator, can I get the specs of a cam? From everything such as lift to duration to overlap? Thanks, Owen

Well, this definitely aftermarket unless Datsun had the technology way back then! Was it shop installed or by the owner (previous)? When you say middle console, I am imagining the trapeziodial AC panel. Look in the back for some L-shaped brackets bolted to the deck and to something nearby. It could also be bolted to the back of that AC panel, or the wires could simply be pulled tite. There are usually also tabs on the sleeve that holds the deck (imagine a pullout radio) that fold in so the entire unit cannot be removed. Hope this helps. Owen

Well, if you've read my other post, I'm going thru a tear down when I should be tuning on the street... Anyways, on the way home from work in my hour drive. I come up on this Porsche 911, lowered, rims, rollbar, and some kinda racing org. sticker. Sounds sweet and I know he's not one of the yuppies who buy a Porsche for the looks. He hear's my loud exhaust on my bad-ass CRX and just turns his nose up and away. I'm thinking, if I was in my Z you son of a.... I can't WAIT to get on the road! Kill after kill after kill, there's so many M5s and 7series BMWs, Porsches, Stangs, Vettes, etc. in my city. Can't wait...just can't wait... My license plate frame is gonna say, "You lost to a 1973 Import" Remember, if anyone asks, it's an L-6 with a header Owen

Haw Haw! That's hilarious! I can see we're a lot alike. When I get pissed, my first inclination is to throw something, can't count how many game controllers and joysticks ended up in little plastic pieces, but I've grown up a little. When I first got my Z something pissed me off and I threw it at the wall. The damn thing bounced back and made a dent in my fender! I now think and choose a target before I let it fly I know about those cheapy creepers too, I stopped using mine and instead use it to transport heavy stuff around the garage. Good thing is, last nite I tore down the rest of the bottom end and there is NO bearing damage! Whatever is seizing the engine is in the piston bores as I thought. There was a light film of orange looking crap on the piston skirts, which felt just like silicon sealer that had turned liquid and just stayed there. That explains the rubber sound. I'm gonna clean out the block, install new bearings, and get the engine back in. Maybe get a windage tray and crank scraper while I'm at it. Well, after I do a few mods to the EG bay! Like paint, re-wiring, brake lines, etc. And I'm waiting for parts from Mike Kelly so all in all, this ain't as bad as I thought. Thanks for the support guys! Owen

Haw haw haw! That'll keep it in line! Owen

sorry Havok, Hiromi is back and only got the set for Mike. Mike, he'll be contacting you soon. Owen

I've found non-epoxy primer doesn't gum up the paper as much when sanding it. Owen

Thanks guys, I'm not as upset as when I smashed my first welding machine I didn't paint the engine pay when I did the car, now's my chance! Anyone remember a long, long time ago when I suggested the idea of making the top radiator x-member removable? Sort of like a strut tower bar? Tim says it's not necessary cuz he can pull the engine in 15 minutes, but anything to speed up the job is what I want. Plus I don't have those big gorilla arms that Tim has If I did this, I could have the engine out in 5 minutes! No need to tilt the damn thing either! I'll keep you guys posted on what I find in the engine, definitely not a beer can...maybe a bra or something... Owen

Don't you hate it when they're like that? I'm a novice too, I painted my car once but that's about it. Guide coat is sprayed on over primer and then sanded off with a flat board and sand paper to make sure the panel is straight. Here's mine. http://www.v8zcar.com/s30z/body6.htm As for the paint reacting, it shouldn't happen but if there's a chance it could, I myself wouldn't do it. I've never taken a body shop class or anything (and it shows), I learned from books, and videos and hanging out on BBS sites. Check these places out http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index I was here more than Hybrid when I was painting my car. Lot's of helpful people who aren't jerks. The owner, Len, sells Paint 101 which is great, tell him Owen sent you. http://www.sharpe1.com/cgi-bin/ubb/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro Mainly Sharpe related. http://www.paintucation.com/index2.html I also bought a 3 video set from Kevin here. The board isn't as high paced as Len's but there's plenty of info. Email me offline if you need to know any more of my limited knowledge Owen

If it's bodywork you're worried about, get some spare panels and practice practice practice. That'll get you where you wanna go. Also, you should be block sanding a guide coat to see how your bodywork is coming out. AE inside and under lids could work no problem, just make sure they don't react adversely with the bc/cc, you don't want to get lifting when you're all done. And hopefully you can get a good color match for your interior and exterior. Owen