Owen

Definitely the LIGHTER color! I'm seeing purple in the darker one and I don't like purple:) Owen

My jaw is stuck open...sweet! Post some pix of it in action too

Wow, that's gonna look menacing on the street! Keep us posted! Owen

Why does Ferrari make it through the backmarkers so much easier than the other teams? Well, when you see that bright red car in your mirrors...you know they're faster, better let 'em by! I knew a link for paint chips online, but there's really no point. You need to get to your shop and look at the chips out under the sun. I wonder how red is gonna look over black DP90? Or are you gonna high-build primer too? I would go with the 2-stage urethanes, but you'll need another $500 or so for the supplied air system if you chose to do this at home. Owen

Must be, because when I first was investigating mufflers and how to get the car to a muffler shop, someone told me not to drive the car there with no exhaust because I might burn the valves. Guess it's true? Owen

Do you mean the hatch is cracking or the body? And are you talking about the area where the pocket is for the hinge? Cutting out and replacing with metal would be the best way. Lead is old tech, there are better fiberglass fillers out there. I prefer the stuff made by Evercoat. Owen

I agree with Z-Gad, so many stores around here have popped up just because of the performance craze. Most are punks that get their technical info from Turbo mag. They don't know anything about customer relations or customer service. I guess it's because most of their customers only want those windshield sprayers with the blue lites in them?! Owen

Same bolts, the ones I used were for holding the rails and stuff to the bottom of skateboards...a long time ago! Owen

Mike, Sounds good! Especially if you have a dyno. I hope there are other shops nearby, like muffler shops and tire shops, etc. I wouldn't depend heavily on the accessories side of things. You can get clear lights and aluminum pedals almost anywhere like Summit or the huge number of ads in Turbo magazine which all sell the same thing. My friends have been in the business over 10 years and have lost a lot in the past 4 or so because of cheap crap coming from Taiwan, etc. Fake one piece tuner wheels that look cool but are heavy and would probably collapse if you ran over a speed bump too fast! If there's an import crowd, I would suggest going JDM since that seems to be the craze right now. Or go with parts for the newer imports like the WRX and soon to arrive Evolution VII (VIII?). My friend is an importer of ENDLESS brake parts and I'm sure he'd be interested in selling to the East coast. Email me direct cuz I don't check here on the weekends. Owen

Thanks, I'm going with the original stuff now until I can find some decent looking clears. Owen

So far I've found these. http://www.riverlakes.com/highway.htm http://www.speedtrap.org/speedtraps/stetlist.htm I looked at one nearby my work and it's pretty accurate! Owen

Since we're such a big group spread out all over the place. We should gather and share information on the location of various redlight cameras, speed traps, etc. Sound good? Owen

Found this, "Radar-Jamming Devices are Illegal (SB 1964) Use of devices capable of jamming, scrambling, neutralizing, disabling, or otherwise interfering with a radar, laser, or any other electronic device used by law enforcement to measure speed are illegal. In addition, such devices cannot be purchased, possessed, sold, manufactured, or distributed in California." But you, know, it's only illegal if you're caught and punished Owen

I'm using VW Jetta ones, $16 each + $16 for harness and bulb! Expensive! web page Owen

One of my ideas was to have a bullet muffler under the car and have it exit there. The ricer muffler at the rear would be just for show. As for the IR emitters, I was thinking of them for up front. We don't have many roadside smoggers in CA yet but there are a lot of stoplight cameras! Especially in the LA area, that means you Tim Owen

Go fiberglass all around and make yourself less susceptible to radar! Can't wait to see when it's done, going to MSA show? Owen

RacerX, The reason? Cuz I don't know anything else I've researched a couple of paint lines but was really limited to what my local shop stocked the most. Owen

I think you're right, only the 260Z ones will fit. That's whay I have on my 240Z. Owen

RacerX, Thanks for the suggestion, I don't take it as criticism cuz I don't know anything at all! This procedure, you mentioned, is this for bare metal followed by the high build instead of epoxy? My car is already fully covered in DP90LF, gotta sand some runs out though. Next comes the K36! Owen

If it's a totally unseen design then I would do it. I was thinking the same thing for some other body parts. Owen

Good advice on those blue tarps! Glad I never did this. I went through this really quick so I hope I don't repeat anyone's answers. I don't know if POr-15 is compatible with most of the automotive paints. Better check first instead of getting lifting and blistering later. There's also a thing called Zero Rust which is basically the same thing but widely used by the people I've been talking to for automotive prep. I've also had problems with POR-15 on large areas, especially the underside of the floors which flexes a little. In my case, the POR-15 started to crack and eventually peel off. Then again, this metal was new so there probably wasn't enough tooth in the metal for the POR-15 to bite to. And the rust prep, I used some on my rear quarters and it really ate the rust away! But what I don't like about it is that you have to clean every bit of it off later or you'll get adhesion problems. I gave up on it and went straight to sandblasting. One little missed spot of that rust prep could cause havoc. Regarding the DA, I use 40grit on bare metal, but that's for areas that need filler. Owen

My opinion is that etching primer isn't really necessary at all since the quality of well known epoxy primers is so good. Also, the metal will already be etched by the sandblasting. I just finished sandblasting my car and am coating with PPG DP90LF, no etching primer. Etch primer can't hurt but you also can't put filler over some brands. I think there is less compatibility with brand x etch and brand y primers too. The worst it can do is increase the mils of paint on your car, which is not always a bad thing. Owen

I'd need to know a little more info on what sort of plans you have for it. Since it's just the door, I assume you are going to match it to the original color. Are you going to paint it yourself? All I can say at the moment is, keep the door clean, don't touch it with bare hands, wipe it down with wax/grease/tar remover (from a known brand maker) before painting. Get the metal up to proper temperature before priming. Check to see if the metal needs any scuffing before applying primer, etc. What kind of primer are you using? Etch, epoxy, high build? Owen

I have those car roller skate things, but when I don't have the tires on, I just sit floor jacks on 'em and use those under the car instead. I wouldn't recommend towing or anything though, these wheels are small. How about lifting both ends with 2 engine hoists? I wonder how much the body would flex... Owen

I'll pull the block, grind off the numbers and either weld or JB weld new numbers in before they take my baby to the crusher! But total package-wise, I'm fuel injected and catalylitic converted so I should have no problems from the tail pipe end of things. It's just all that charcoal canister junk I don't have. Owen