Owen

Not sure about your last comment but the female end is threaded and is shaped like a T. When the bolt is screwed in, the 2 halves pull towards each other. The flat face of the T sits flush with the lens but it could be done the other way as well. I like to experiment with different bulbs and stuff so it had to be easily rebuildable. Owen

Did the same thing, mine were crap and the bolts just tore up the plastic threading on the lens. I got some sex bolts (that's what they were called when I was a hard core skatboarder 10 years ago) and drilled through the entire lens and just used a longer bolt. The sex bolts kinda look like rivets but they're threaded. Don't know if they make them anymore but I got a whole box at home. Owen

"If not, they crush your car right there on the spot. Just kidding about the crushing part!" NOT funny, my heart stopped a milisecond when I read that! Do they actually check the block too? My block is about 4 years older than the chassis, which I think is unacceptable. I'm hoping to just not have it inspected and let it slide by.... Owen

Looks like they would hit the shock towers but we could always ask for the dimensions. If the price is right, I'm in too! Owen

By cold forming you mean just lining it up and bolting it on? Owen

The problem with this is that some shops won't gurantee the work because they didn't do the bodywork. Better make sure before you slam the money down on the table. Owen

I'm going to do mine soon too. I've setup a booth in my garage with PVC pipe and plastic tarps. As for a gun, it depends on your compressor, make sure the compressor has enough output for your gun. Lowest I've seen on a gravity feed HVLP is the Sharpe Platinum which can be bought refurbished. I've also got 40ft of copper tubing and water traps but still need a better filter. For primer I've used a Harbor Freight knock off $50 HVLP gun, 1.4 tip. Sprayed DPLF90 this weekend and had no runs, etc. I'll be getting the Platinum for colors and clears though. One thing you may want to consider is the paints themselves, if they contain isocyanates, you're gonna get sick. There was another post like this earlier. I bought a Hobby Air 2 which feeds me forced air from another compressor, it's good for sandblasting too. This is getting long...but about those explosion proof lights, if you wanna go that far, better get some explosion proof fans too. Once the paint builds up on the fan motor, who knows what'll happen? My setup will be fans mounted to a box with filters pulling air from the booth in a siphon effect so no overspray ever touches the fan. I've got two fans blowing in as well. You'll also want a DA sander, Airvantage makes one that only consumes 3.5cfm! Add all this stuff up and it gets expensive real fast... Once my internet connection at home is working again I'll post some pix of my booth. Owen

I'm running a Random Technologies high flow 3". It's bullet shaped and I get good ground clearance (in the garage, it's not running). Owen

Did Mike or anyone else end up buying those mirrors? How do they look? And how much do they cost? Owen

Floor it and pull the handbrake through a turn! Seriously, do it somewhere safe. You could damage a lot. And your line is important, don't try to drift a 90 degree right turn from the rightmost lane. Approach from the leftmost lane, turn in, downshift/and or pull the p-brake, aim for the apex and countersteer out! Some guys were trying this outside of our office building and only managed to spin Owen

Don't know where Rowlett is but I got my tranny from here. http://www.lt1s.com/ Owen

Seems like a lot to me. If you think about what you want to do now or later on, bigger exhaust with more ground clearance, subframe connectors, rollcage, etc. you're gonna end up chopping the floors. Then coilovers, new diff, fuel cell...it's never ending Owen

I used Dupont truck bed liner on my underbody. Looks sweet, but I noticed that anywhere that flexes a lot, like the floors, will crack. I had some left over and did my floors from the inside too, one thing I don't like is that it gives a weird sort of texture because there are so many solids in it. Owen

Thanks! Man that Delillo on Beach Blvd...no professionalism. Never saw the GND labeled as 5V return though. Do you have anything for the IAC? And what year Camaro is this coming from? Thanks, Owen

I have a TPS and an IAC from a 1994-1996 Vette and am trying to determine what pins are used for what wires (pin A=5v, B=12v, C=GND etc.) The local service departments at the dealers are morons and are ignoring me. Anyone have a shop manual or know someone they could ask? I have a copy of the manual but the stupid thing doesn't say which way is up and the sensor is marked with pin letters! Help! TPS 17106680 IAC 17113099 Owen

Helps a lot! I guess I guessed right about the smaller tip size and the atomization, but just wanted to confirm with other people. And yes, this will be done prior to topcoat. I chose this one because it's tintable. Although I may end up going with Glasurit, I've heard it's a lot easier to work with in terms of fish eyes, etc. Thanks again, Owen

RacerX, Good info! And I thought paint stripper hurt my skin, I don't want to find out what ISOs will do to it Hey, do you know, can I use PPG OMNI MP180 2K Sealer with my 1.4 tipped HVLP gun? Recommended sizes are 1.5 to 1.7... Owen

Mine leaked at the flares, but at the sleeve on the Al tubing. The tube must have gotten bent or kinked and allowed the fuel to leak past. I have since switched to all braided lines. Owen

So I guess that means give ME a call Owen

ljohnson is right, I remember how much shock I was in when the last model of the Supra came out! Phil, got any details of that trunck solenoid? Owen

To add more info, I think the House of Kolor primers and Shimrin bases are ISO free but don't take my word for it. I would ask the shop or the manufacturer what the best paints are for your application. If you plan on mixing different paint brands (in terms of one brand on top of another), make sure they are compatible first. Otherwise you'll get lifting and peeling. Owen

For BC/CC, if you don't have the setup, make sure you use a urethane paint that doesn't contain isocyanates. This is the chemical in most newer paints and is odorless. It won't kill you right away but you could become sensitized to it and the next time you try to paint and you inhale or abosorb the stuff, you will have bigger health problems. There may be some urethanes and clears without ISOs, maybe PPG's OMNI line? If you do go with urethane, get a free air respirator aka supplied air system. The HobbyAir is a popular and affordable model. Owen

Tim240Z and I saw a rear clip from a newer Vette and the Gardena pick-n-pull junkyard. Don't know if it's still there. I'm interested in this remote trunk solenoid thing, really interested! Or anything like a manual cable too. Here's the rear bumper I like for the CRX. Total Mugen knock-off copy. Don't like the shopping cart spoiler though. Owen

Mine didn't have catalytics and neither does 2 of my friends. Owen

Sweet job! That muffler pipe looks like it's sticking out waaay far without the bumper. Maybe some vents or indentations on the rear valence would be good. Someone here said that the rear valance acts like a parachute and causes a lot of drag. I think something like the back bumper hole found in the Mugen body kit for the CRX would be cool. Owen