Dan Juday

Answers: 1) Yes. 2) Yes. "...paying more for a good car isn't an issue." Then you are already off to a better start than most guys (and gals).

I bought my wife a new '06 Mazda 3 hatch. It replaced a '95 Suburban. She loves it for the gas mileage and the ease of driving/parking. It's big enough for our family of four and the groceries. Anything bigger we take the truck. It's "her car" but I sneak out with it whenever I get the chance because it's such a blast to drive. This thing is really quick with the 2.3l four and handles better than anything I've ever owned. It's so easy to drive fast it makes a hack like me look like a rally pro. In the three years we have owned it the only problem was the CD player died. Mazda replaced it under warranty in one day. If I roll it into the river tonight pretending to be Ken Block I'd buy a new one tomorrow. Well, maybe an '08. I don't think I could drive the new model with that bid stupid grin on it's face. (Looks like this > )

Those look so good I might have to buy an S130 just so I'll have something to bolt your parts to.

I like your idea for structural foam. In my business I get parts (non-car parts) shipped to me all the time that have been packed with expanding foam. The guy boxing the parts simply lays a plastic bag (like a garbage bag) in the box and squirts the foam in the bag. Then he drops the part in and fills another bag and drops it on top of the part. Close the lid and you have a part incased in foam but none of it is stuck to the part. Why not do a similar thing with the fender? Then you would have the support of the foam without it actually sticking to the metal. If you go to the extra trouble of removing the fender you could lay a piece of plastic (like visqueen (sp?)) over the uni-body then bolt the fender back up with the plastic sandwiched between the fender and body and then fill the area between the fender and plastic with foam. The foam sticks to the fender but not the body. You could remove the fender anytime later without having to cut away the foam.

If you want to keep your "ole lady" quit learing at young girls in bikinis.

Early 240's had the diff located forward an inch or so. If this is your case you will also need the curved rear crossmember that came on later 240's and all 260's and 280's to clear the back of the R200. All R200s are mounted in the aft position.

I think Hogie's got it. It's just the styling of the S130. It's easily dated to the '80's squared off look. The Z31's styling also suffers from that era's automotive tastes. The S30 had more of the classic lines that seem to never grow old. It's sad because, like you say, the S130 has several advantages over the S30 and is likely a much better car. I feel that today's cars in twenty years will also be easily dated as fad styling of this decade. This includes the 350Z/370Z in my opinion. Someone on here has sig: "Cars are like women. Everyone likes the pretty ones." So true, so true.

Great idea Chartoo. I never really woried about my lack of back-up lights. The posibility that it might be illegal hasn't phased me either as there may be one or two other illegal items on my car as well. Changing to the JDM style tail lights is on list after I finish the "the big front end redux". I may do the amber/white bulb thing just so I can point it out to the local LEO's.

Orange safety cone. I used to drop one in back of my service van when I worked in San Francisco. There people would park so close that I couldn't get the back doors open. Keep it in the hatch and drop it next to the left front corner of your Z when you park. Might seem goofy but I bet it works, and it's cheap.

Jon, would this be different if the lower control arms are the type with the heim mounted adjustable rear link? Would this relieve any binding from a miss-aligned (fore and aft) camber plate? Or would it contribute to more bending loads on the strut? Sorry, I don't mean to take this thread down a tangent. I just have not seen this addressed in the other "adjustable rear LCA" threads. Maybe I missed it.

Myjunkyard, date check on this thread? Sorry, but I don't think Mr. "Anonymous" is going to respond. Nice of you to offer help though.

Scott, after my car was first painted I got a ton of chips in the airdam and the front of the rear fender flares. When the paint failed (don't ask) and the painter repainted it (on his dime with no argument. Good man.) I applied the clear 3M paint guard material. Absolutely no chips with the 3M product. It's a lot of work to apply, and pricey stuff, but nothing near the cost of a re-spray.

There were at least four at Knotts this year and one was for sale. It was an L6 that needed a re-paint but other wise quite nice. You would be amazed at the GTO owners I meet there that have never heard of HybridZ and can hardly use the internet. Also, John Washington has a 280 LT1 project car for sale. It comes with a 280YZ kit that has the rear fenders already bonded on. I bet you could make a deal for the car with a Velo Rossa coupe (GTO) body kit swaped for the YZ.

Real sweet! Nice shots. "I kept it to a reasonable pace since I had a 700 mile drive home..." Not fooling me. On that last shot we can see your white knuckles, and the cross hanging from the rear view mirror is swinging a good 30*.

At over four and a half feet in diameter I'm afraid it's a no-go. Maybe you mean a 15" wheel? If so, I'm running 305/50/15's on the rear with 280YZ fenders and it's tight. So odds are stock quarters are also a no-go even with 15" wheels.

If the motor is that far forward you can use long tube headers. Have you considered just buying a JTR kit and setting it back?

Don't beat them up, exchange them. If you gave us the maker and part number that would help. There are several out there that fit. In general there are two types of block huggers, inner tubes near the block and outer tubes near the block. In general (but not always) the ones with the outer tubes near the block, #1/#7 and #2/#8, will clear the steering shaft while the other type will not. Sanderson makes a nice set that is reversed from what I said but fit great because they are made for this swap. I know pics would be more helpfull, sorry.

Drill and re-tap. If the threads are too far gone you can use a Heli-coil. Don't all 30+ year old Z cars have at least one Heli-coil?

AAAHHHHHHH!!!!!! You let him put his shoe on your GTO!!!!!!??????? :icon52:

Hmm...? I don't know what issues you ran into. I did this swap a few years back for a friend: '95 LT1/T56 into a '78 280. I used the JTR kit. If memory serves me I think I had to cut about 1/2 inch off one end and re-drill the hole for the tranny mount. That's about it. However, the 3 pound sledge was nearby as it is required to clearance the tunnel. I might have delived a few "adjustment" blows to the floor but, honestly, I can't remember. I made backer plates for the inside out of 1/8" steel and bolted it up. He's driven it hard for the last 4 or 5 years and the only thing that has fallen off is a wire on a fan relay. Tranny is still there though. As far as driveshaft u-joint angles, every car is different. After doing two of these swaps (first was a tpi/T5) I have found that the JTR tranny mount combined with the RT diff mount, and a few flat washers, make adjusting the u-joint angles fairly easy. I could never get the nose of the diff low enough with the stock front diff mount. One other item: the floor of a 280 is thicker steel than a 240. Lots of guys have used the JTR mount in 240's without incident, me included. Unless you plan on using a solid mount and forced induction, you shouldn't have a worry on the floor failing. If you are using solid mounts and forced induction you are familier with failures anyway.

As long as you have the space, a garage and some yard space, and a little time, two to three months, I'd say it would be hard to lose on that deal. Selling Camaro parts has to be much easier, and more profitable, than selling Z parts. Just my guess.

I went back and caught-up on your other threads. Sorry, I'm a little behind on the hybridz goings ons. Sorry to hear you're throwing in the towel. No shame, it was a daunting endeavor. Try not to get too bent on all the money. That's the price of being a pioneer. On your need for a crossmember: check with StealthZ. He's in Sacramento and has way more S30 parts than he will ever use. And he practically gives them away. Good luck my friend.

Donor? After all this time and work are you giving up on the rotory Z?

Both of those links came as 305's. The only 305's that made power were the f-body tpi motors. Any other 305 is not worth your effort for the swap.

In an S130 I wouldn't consider the electric PS. From what I have gathered there is considerable modification involved in installing it. The S130 came from the factory with a very satisfactory PS system. The fabrication required to mate it to a V8 is peanuts compared to installing an electric system. Now for us S30 guys, who never got PS from Nissan, it's a different story.