Dan Juday

In Thomaz first post he states that he used a a 7/8" master with his original set-up and I didn't see anywhere in the thread that he changed the master after he made the changes to the slave. Check me though as I may have missed something. Just an FYI, for most people, myself included, the 3/4" master did not provide enough travel with the Camaro slave. Even if you go the route described in the JTR book you should use a 7/8" master to ensure enough travel.

Great Darryl, but why not make it to handle 40 amps so us guys with the Taurus fan can use it right out of the box?

Ebay is a breeding ground for frauds. I've spent thousands of dollars on ebay but no more. If I can't look the guy in the eye while I'm holding the item, I don't buy it. We have an expression in my little town, "Keep your contractors (or sellers) within strangling distance". And Meg Whitman want's to be our next governor.

The tiles are cool (yes, it is a pun). I was at a new customers home last week (he's retired from the shuttle program) and he handed me a piece of one that flew into space. They're incredibly light and tough at the same time. Buy it and put a Datsun emblem on it Tony.

Told you, weenie. Now get out there and lay in the water and beat on that thang! FYI, now my frame rails look like YOUR butt, smooth and covered in primer.

I got to say I'm not lovin' it. Just me though. Hey, did you know John Washington makes a fiberglass version of the 280Z bumpers? http://www.reactionresearch.com/pricelist.html (under "Assorted Z Parts") I guess if you like the look without the heft. Also a lot easier to modify than steel. No real protection though. Fool the cops!

Fat fenders and V8's. Hybridz is about that, right?

Phoenix AZ close enough? John Washington makes a simpler version. It's designed for a racing application. http://www.reactionresearch.com/doors.html

I don't remember the car, (all Z's look the same to me ) but I remember the screen name. Welcome back oldtimer! Hey, and thanks for your service. A Coastie in Washington? You must have been patroling the sound? I have a brother that has a place on Blakely Island.

I mounted mine in a similar fashion, with a duplicate steel plate on the underside. Instead of welding the allen head bolts to the bottom plate though, I just cut threads into the 1/4" steel plate and threaded the bolts in from the top. It does make for a nicer looking install. GC goes to a lot of trouble to make such nice parts it seems a shame to cover them up. I notice your parts came with a nice GC logo and, what looks like, double hole oval shaped washers for the adjustable section. I'm I right on the washers?

Sounds very reasonable. I'd jump on it before they change their mind. My experiance is that frame work is twice the hourly rate they quoted you. Don't be surprised if the final bill is a few hours more. Always seems to work out that way with body shops. At that rate I wouldn't complain though.

Thanks for the kind words Darth. John also has links to the Kit Car Mag artical. The second page has a good shot of the tail lights. http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/danjuday/KCB13P29.pdf

Just hammer the tunnel wall you big weenie. Get out your tin snips and trim the shifter hole. You want me to come over there and hold your hand while you do it?

Seriously? Even the King Kong Grand Mamba Jamba of all Checkers can't be worth this! It's a ... It's a ... Well look for yourself. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-1982-CHECKER-MARATHON-22-ORIGINAL-MILES-BLUE-GRAY_W0QQitemZ250558914578QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a5679a012

You're being redundant. Sorry, couldn't resist. In all seriousness now, nobody here is going to be able to answer that for you. Take the car to a shop that specializes in restoration before you buy. Chances are there is much more rust than just what you can see.

I would cover it with header wrap, or maybe just aluminum foil. Most of the heat will be radiant so some sort of reflective foil should do the trick.

It's actually a factory Nissan part. It was a quick fix when excessive under hood temperatures caused vapor lock. Keep an eye on the bushing. Hot headers melt rubber!

Post some pictures please. I'm curious as to why you’re going to the trouble though. Hydraulic set-ups are much simpler and just as reliable. Several iterations are covered here in the archives.

Ditto. I'd get out a tape measure if I were you and check some diagonals. If you hit hard enough to tear off the TC rod box my bet is that there's other damage as well. The entire forward sub-frame could be racked and you wouldn't see anything just looking at it.

Steering coupler to header clearance is a little tiiiiiiiiiiiiight!

Paul the cage rattler.

If you are installing a sbc with either GM's tuned port injection (tpi) or GM's throttle body injection (tbi) the manual is very helpful. I used it and it helped me. It was worth the price of the book. However, if the sbc you are installing has a carb you only need the V8 swap book.

I was too distracted by the "random catage".

Vinh, I know it never rains in Philly, but hey, the poor guys lives in Arizona. If he listens to you he'll never be able to drive his car.

You're on the right path. The RT mount makes getting the pinon angles a lot easier. You will want to lower the nose of the diff father than you can with the stock mount. On my car I actually had to cut away about a half inch off the top of the crossmember to get the nose low enough. Just add washers between the new rubber mount and the diff untill the front and rear angles match.