Dan Juday

If I were a booster boy I know what i'd use. Evaporative cooling is cheap and dirty and very effective. I'd use distilled water in a windshield washer kit (JC Whitney) to spray over my air-to-air IC. Turn it on with a simple switch on the dash. Distilled water because it wouldn't leave as much of a mess on the IC. Good for the street because you only use it when you really wanted that extra few ponies. The whole set-up can't run more than $50. One gallon of water should last at least 2-3 rice-boy challenges. But hey, what do I know about thermal transfer.

Hey on3go, Do like redrum and stick your best pic in the post. Then we all don't have to "join" something to get more junk e-mail. Then we still get to see your work.

Dude, sounds like fun to me. Don't do anything. In fact, I think i'll set up my car that way. Unusual noises? " Why yes, my passingers scream and on lookers hoot and holler"

Well I like them Greimann, but who cares what I think? Or for that matter, any of these other posers? (No offence, guys ) It's YOUR car. Put on it what you like. Everybody here has seen that beautiful red 240 on the cover of the MSA catalog. What's on it? SLOT mags for heavens sake. Somebody still likes slot mags? Not me. So what. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Your's is the only opinion that matters.

Someday I hope to know myself.

You are correct on the SubtleZ hood. The tpi clears the stock hood with room to spare. For future referance, please post your question in only one forum. That way you don't end up with a split thread, which this has turned into.

I haven't heard of one that has a full metal skeleton. However, I know that the SubtleZ hood has metal reinforcements at the hinge attachment points. From what I have read here John Washington may be back in business as soon as Monday. If you are serious you can e-mail John at john@reactionresearch.com

David, David, no no. Check that address again (southern hemisphere). That's our WINTER vacation spot.

Wow, that is way more complicated than my plan. I'm not dissin' you bro. I'm just too lazy for that much work. My plan: The Datsun wheelhouse is made in two pieces, an inner and an outer with a convienient seam right down the middle to use as a guide-line. I will make a template out of several pieces of cardboard taped together that will fill the space between that seam and the inside suface of my 'glass fender. Then I will remove the template and cut one piece of aluminum sheet. on the edge that contacts the fiberglass I will slip on that generic flexable weather striping edge stuff. They make some that is just the edging with the metal inside without any actual seal attached to it. I will then fit the piece into the opening and pop-rivit it to the steel wheelhouse with a little caucking to seal it. On the edge that contacts the fiberglass I will just use a bead of silicon to glue it to the fender. Quick and easy. The rubber edging will keep the aluminum from abrading the fiberglass. Not an original idea. I saw it on a cobra kit.

Looking good. Man, don't get an oil leak on that driveway.

Al Silvera(sp, sorry Al) aka Alsil has swapped the Ford PS rack. If you do a search for Alsil you should get a link to his web site in his sig.

It's always a treat to see you here at Hybrid, John. And fantastic news about your molds. Going back into the Z car "glass" biz, some people are just gluttons for punishment. So fill us in, is there any truth to this new rumor that the YZ rear flares are just modified VR flanks?

Remember, per JTR, you're going to have to angle mill those ram's horns manifolds to clear the steering shaft!

Ross rules. If he sold groceries I'd buy all my food from him.

Now, if you do the motor swap you'll need to get the Toyota 4Runner model to upgrade the brakes. Scope creep, it's not just for real cars anymore.

The 124's (as well as the later 2000 Spyder) only cane from Fiat with a soft top. A very nice one BTW, that had integrated glass side windows. That hard top is an aftermarket item.

Well, sounds like it's the one. Mine was tight too. Just make sure you have the splines lined up right then carefully tighten the big nut. I'd think twice before you returned it. It can take months to get parts from Momo.

There are two pins or posts that are 180 degrees apart that stick down about an 1/8th" that cancel the turn signals, if that is what you mean. Can you e-mail some pics? Oh, and if you need to onload that ugly silver wheel I'll take it off your hands for $50. jk

That's what I kept telling myself. So, the family and I are just about to head out to get this year's tree when the door bell rings. "Hey Dan, what's up?" Jon, aka Jumbo240Z, is standing on my porch and his "arrest me red", Ford powered Z is in the street in front of the house. Cool, very cool. "Ah, it's a salesman, honey. I'll chase him away and be right back.", as I slip out the door. I get an up close and personal look at his latest mods: the Gurney flap, the filled side markers, and the way cool OSH supplied custom strut braces. "Ya wanna ride?" "Well, ah, I should..." "Get in! The seat belt is right behind the seat." Note to self: He's got a five point harness, I got a lap belt and bad judgement. Was I scared? You bet your brass! Seriouly, thanks Jon, that was a great time. Stop by anytime.

Expect a major spill, so drain it first. I used Red Line D4 ATF. Spendy stuff.

Jaime, My part # was 3503, no C. I got mine from Custom Auto in Oakland. They are a Momo rep. Their # is 510-567-1888. Call them Monday and ask for Linda. She can give you a definative answer. If that doesn't work just take a jaunt over the river and come take a look at mine.

Izzy, Welcome to Hybridz. You came to right place. I second everything Tim said. I would like to emphasize the part about getting the jtr book. It is the foundation of any V8Z swap. Go here right now and order it. It is worth many times the selling price. I don't think anyone, without a lot of engine swaping experiance, can do it with out this book. The jtr book steps you through the Chevy install, but is equally valuable if you plan to do the Ford. No kits for the Ford, but others here have successfully done it, i.e. Jumbo240Z & Blueovalz (Jon & Terry). I did the Chevy and love it. If I do another I'll do the Ford. Each motor has it's +'s & -'s. I like the 302 because it is lighter, much closer to the weight of the Nissan L6. And the distributor is where God intended, up front. No hood latch mod required. Keep reading and have fun.

Hey Larry, just an FYI. You may already be aware of this, but Rory has prodused a prototype hard-top for the S30 and Z31 models. Getting a finished production unit from him is another issue though. It took me a year to get a dashboard and I asked face to face, AND it actually came from a kit owner that didn't use it. So, ah, making your own is actually a good idea. In fact, if you produce a couple, I may have a few buyers for you. Recoup some of your investment.

Whatever. Sorry I said anything.

Don't you wish your pile of scrap car parts looked like that?