Dan Juday

All you need is the bellhousing from a f-body and all will be well. The bellhousing mounts the tranny at the same angle so the rear mount comes out level. The bonus to this is that the shifter is now straight too. If you have the jtr book, edition 7, look on page 5-7. It shows the Corvette bellhousing on the left (straight) and the f-body one on the right (angled).

What? Are you kidding? Sorry, my idea first. only I'm using the MSA integrated airdam. Hope to have the bodywork and paint done before the MSA show.

Yes. Scarab would refer to the more forward location of the motor/tranny as compared to the set-back position of the JTR Jags That Run kit. Welcome to HybridZ, do you still have the car? Tell us about it.

Well, the guy in Modesto has his phone "temporarily" disconnected. So I decided to go home tonight and click the "e-mail him" button and poof, the ad is gone. Well looks like I'm going to Milpitas Saturday unless someone else here has another lead.

Hey Ross, how about posting that pic here so the rest of us can see?

No sweat Sumo. Randy, I found the ad. Tried calling him tonight and couldn't get through. I'll try tomorrow. Big thanks. Also, big thanks to Josh who e-mailed me. I work in the central valley so if I can get to this Modesto guy I can do it after work. But if not your tip is my ace in the hole for next weekend. I should have tried this a long time ago, HybridZ bros always come through.

Very sharp Guy. Kinda looks familiar too.

Thanks Sumo, I'll be waiting for your post. I'd just planned on finding one locally, but if you can help and the price is fair this is simpler for me.

Pee J, you're nuts. I can't believe the amount work you were willing to do on that car. I'd have tossed it and started looking for a desent replacement. My hats off to you. You and Pete, Z guys who will stop at nothing!

Yes. If you draw a line around the taillight about an inch away all the way around and cut it out, that's what I want. Just the metal, not the light or anything else.

Guys, and gals, I need some help finding a body panel. Has to be at a self serve yard in the Sacramento/Central Valley/Bay Area region. The "we pull it for you" yards want too much for body cuts. What I'm looking for is a straight right rear corner off a Z32, a.k.a. '90-'96 300ZX. Specificly, the sheetmetal behind and about an inch around the taillight. Just tell me where it is and I'll go do the work. Help me out and I'll send you pics of what I'm up to.

Sweet little Sonnett. The first gens looked even more like the Z. It had the same type of headlight buckets. And, BTW, the Saab came out before the Z so who copied who? The V4 was a shakey little tractor motor from what I've been told. I would agree that a motor swap would be in order!

Actualy Mudge, since your car is a '73, you already have the curved transverse bar. Only the early 240's with the diff located farther forward had the straight bar.

Very nice. I see we had the same idea for the tailpipes.

Yes, even with good quality stuff, there is a lot of fitting involed. Is it worth the weight savings? IMO, no. Is it worth it to have big bulgey cool looking flares that you can stuff even bigger tires under? Yes. On the hood, you can only use the hinges if the hood is reinforced with metal in the area that the hinge bolts to. John Washington's hoods are made that way, few others are.

Read the deal. You can buy it but you can't fly it.

You know Flibuoy, your right. I looked. The jtr book doesn't really explain this. My apologies. Here is my experiance. I bought a '91 T5 out of a Firebird. It has the 15* tilt. The place where the tranny mount bolts up is cast at the same 15* angle. So when I bolted the f-body belhousing to it (also at 15*) the tranny mount comes out level. I just bolted it to the jtr mount. no bending, cutting, or folding needed. Now, if you are using a T5 from another car that is mounted straight up, and the f-body bellhousing, or vice versa, then I can see your problem. Again, sorry if I sounded patronizing, just seemeed too simple to me. Either way, I could have come off better.

Yes I'm using the f-body T5 with the 15* tilt. My hose is 24". With the 90* el on the master end it gives you a little more slack to route it along the firewall. If you go with straight ends 26" will probably give you similar results.

My wife says the man box only needs one more knob, a brightness control. I don't get it?

Hey Guy, Don't get hot! I'm just pullin' your chain. I've blabbed here so many time about my paint choice I thought people where sick of hearing it. But I'm glad you made your own choice anyway. That's the way it's suppost to be. BTW, here's a hint: It's the same color they paint the Viper.

Ditto what FlameZWayne Said about the 3/4" master. I learned this the hard way. I used a 7/8" Tilton. Bolted right up. I also modified the Camaro plastic slave same way, the jtr way. Just be very careful when you drill and tap. Take it completely apart and clean it out completely when your done drilling and taping. I used a drill press, made it much easier. And, of coarse, don't over tighten the fitting. I used an off-the-shelf 24" XRP steel braided line with the fittings attached. Think it was about $18. Straight on one end and a 90* on the other. Here's a pic that might be helpful.

Mudge is right. The more hp you have the fewer gears you need. There is a guy here in town that has a car with so much hp he only has one gear. Maybe you've heard of him, Craig Breedlove?

Jon, a.k.a. Jumbo240Z also has one. Do a search and you should find plenty here about it. Was a hot topic a few months back.

Honda Schmonda. It ain't no stinkin' hondah. Guess again.

Yes, Wagz is paying attention. E-mail John your credit card number and you just may be surprized.