Dan Juday

Lone, you've inspired me. 4WD "Hairy Z" Do you think JTR could make some motor mount?

Well come on MAN! Lets get a good look at those pipes.

Well if you have the manual, you have a full set of drawings to make the parts. Which, if you think about it, is very generous. He didn't have to do that. He could have said, "Now go buy my kit". I would say try making the set back plates first. If that turns out to be no big deal to you, go ahead and do the rest. If you spend more time cursing and looking for bandaids than you do making parts I'd say buy the kit. It comes ready to paint. And, IMHO, is dirt cheap. Have you seen the price of bandaids these days?

Like Pete I've got ground wires going to studs in the back of my heads. I have about 1/2" clearance from my HEI to the firewall but only about 3/8 from the grounding studs. I haven't driven the car much yet, still working on the body, but I'm concerned with so little clearance that the motor will rap the firewall at those studs on a heavy launch. Gotta keep motor movement in mind when snuggin' the dist up to the firewall. Things could go snap!

Ok, since this thread will never end, and I just learned how to do this, here goes:

The red/black wires are the reverse switch. Can't help you on the green.

Oops, I just read Mikellys post about posting etiquette. I fully retract the "weenie" comment. I ask all who thought I was talking about them to forgive me. I'll never, never, never, never, NEVER!!!, do it again.

Can't help you with the Hyperlink thing. The wing thing comes off by removing the spot welds. There has been some discussion here about the best way to do that, check the search function. I used a spot weld tool. It looks like a tiny (5/16") hole saw with a spring loaded awl point in the middle. About $15 and your local auto paint store. Just chuck it up in your VERIABLE SPEED drill motor. It worked great for me. Others have griped that they are hard to use. They're just weenies.

I second that motion BLKMGK. Post YOUR web pages url, Steelman. Lets all critique how well you have documented your work.

Still tring to figure out how you get the pic right in the post. That's a pretty good one John A. has of us at the meet. John and I and our sons. Yes Davy, here is a link to one of me under the Z. http://www.zparts.com/showcase/djudayv8proj/pages/fbs01r16f07.htm

It worked for me just fine. I used a drill press. Be careful, go slow, use a new drill and a new tap. My problem was with the master. Buy the 7/8" to start with, DONT BUY THE 3/4".

Well, that didn't work.

Ok here goes,

Running both speeds. The Camaro tpi set-up has two fans. I rewired the #2 fan relay to swap power from low to high speed. Can't power both high and low at the same time or you risk burning out the fan motor.

I used masking tape too. Wrap as tight as you can. I cut it with an 8" chop saw with abrasive blade. And, yes, remove the tape slowly and hold it as close to the cut as posible. I still bled like a stuck pig, though. Personally, I'm glad that part is over.

Miles, sounds like the clutch is not completely disingaging. But you are thinking the same thing as you stated the 1" fork movement. Strange, 1" should be plenty. I suppose the disk could be binding on the input shaft and wedged against the flywheel, just guessing. Any strange sounds?

Hey Z ya, here is a shot of your radiator and fan,...in my car. http://www.zparts.com/showcase/djudayv8proj/pages/fbs01r16f20.htm

If you have $6k, plan on a convertion that "should " cost $3k. That should be just about right. And, yes, it is the little things that blow your budget. I think I have about $300 in my fuel lines .

Thanks guys for your input. I had not considered a cage before now. Mine will be a street car only. But this has really made me think. I'd like to hear what others think as well. I'll be seeing Eric later this week and will ask him if he knows any specifics about this wreck, i.e. speed of impact, the size of the other vehicle.

Try this: http://www.zparts.com/ads/new/Image012rw1.jpg

There have been threads lately conserning removing the rear bumper and smoothing the rear valance. This is what I plan to do, and many others have considered, or have done, as well. A consideration of safety came up as to how much protection the small, early type, bumpers actually provide. Some have talked about reinforcing behind the valance or other bracing simalar to what I have done. I want to offer this picture of a rear-ender. http://www.zparts.com/ads/new/Image012rw1.jpgThis is a car that Eric Neyerlin of Zparts is acquiring for parts. This pic is making me reconsider what I have done. Notice that the entire rear has accordianed and there is no apparent damage to the passenger area. It is obvious, in this case, that a bumper on or off would make little or no difference. My consern is that with the bracing I have done the energy of an impact would be transfered directly to that area. What do you guys think? Who has "been there, done that".

I remember that day. 8 months later I started it for the first time! Now the work really begins Z ya. Have fun, don't be in to much of a hurry, do it right.

IMHO Do it yourself: $2000 min. Pay a shop:$7000 min. There are no maximums! Others here will disagree, I'm sure. Some claim to have converted for $1000 or less. But I think I'm at least in the ballpark.

I have a hybrid linkage/cable (in keeping with the hybrid theme). The idea is not original with me. It works great, here is a pic: http://www.zparts.com/showcase/djudayv8proj/pages/fbs01r16f17.htm Very cheap and easy.

Here is a link to my pics: http://members.home.net/zcarphotos/djproj_psweb1/index.htm