Hugh

That is how I'm leaning... I wish I could get arms that would reduce the weight of the front end. Seems like they're all about the same weight as stock, though.

I'd like to stiffen up my front suspension for street driving. I'm not into circuit/autocross or anything like that. It seems like the major draw to the lower arm replacements is all the adjustability. I'm not so concerned about that... I just want to tighten the front end up for daily driving. I've also been looking at bushing kits, but for the price of the kit plus installation of the bushings... I could pretty much just replace the lower arms altogether. (and bolt them on myself) Would these be too abusive for street driving? Am I crazy here?

You've only got 2000rpm at 260hp? Maybe it needs tuning? An SR20DET at that power level can run for a few thousand RPM in power.

When I say S-chassis, I'm talking about the S13, S14, and S15.

Hoping for the KA tranny to take 350-450 ftlbs of torque is not going to get you anywhere. It's not going to take that kind of power for long. If you don't drag launch it, and run a clutch with a little bit of give in it, then it will take it for a long time. If you're like me, you're gonna continue blowing transmissions. FYI: The SR20DET transmission has the same back half as the KA24DE transmission. The output shaft is stronger, though... so it will take a little more abuse than the KA tranny. If you can somehow get your hands on an SR tranny from 97-98, then that is the strongest of the SR trannies. (even stronger output shaft) The KA tranny being a little weaker than the SR tranny... and you making that much power, tells me that you will have problems with it, though. I blew my first SR tranny with around 300-325ft/lbs of torque. It snapped as I shifted into second on drag radials at the strip. I gave it a LOT of abuse before it blew, though. I replaced that with an OS Giken unit, close ratio gears and stronger parts. I've since twisted the input shaft to where it looks like it wants to snap off, and probably twisted the output shaft as well, but I haven't looked inside it yet. However, the tranny just keep on going, taking every bit of 362ft/lbs and a lot of drag racing abuse for over a year. It needs rebuilding, but still runs. OS Giken stuff is expensive, though... and with the cost of it totalling over $2000 for parts, plus labor... that tells me other options are becoming cheaper and more effective.

Yes. Thats what was going on in the picture posted earlier.

There was a big thread recently about power window kits... search for that for a lot of info. This kit looks to be universal.. not bolt on.

Well, actually the problem lies here: The KA doesn't like to rev. Sure, in the 300-400hp range, you've got a killer power band. If you take it over 400hp you start seeing a car thats basically fighting your turbo setup. It doesn't want to make massive peaks at high RPM, it spools the turbo fast and the turbo seems to outflow the motor at high RPM and you lose power. The SR20DET, on the other hand, just wants to rev way past its limits if you let it. (and your turbo is big enough to flow in that area) So on 500hp+ KA24DEt's, you see a very peaky power band that can't hold on long enough.. the motor can't wind out with the bigger turbos. Everyone says they'd take the KA over the SR just because of the displacement. If you're a firm believer that displacement is the deciding factor, then why would you take out the L28, or whichever motor your car had in it? Fact is, there's a lot more to the equation than displacement. My argument on the high horsepower build is this: I've seen numerous 700hp+ SR20DET's. Some in person. I've seen many over 500hp in person. I've built a few to 360-400hp myself, with almost completely stock internals. I read about a few 700hp+ in Option 2 magazine, as well as one over 800hp running 9's on drag radials. I've personally seen one KA over 500hp. It was awesome, but rare. I've only seen a handful on the internet... and last I saw they were quoting the record at 543hp at the wheels. I know someone who made 539hp and 540hp on two different stock block SR20DET's. I know another guy who made 550rwhp on a stock block SR20DET in an RX7 FD. A little headwork, cams, and bolt ons.. thats what it takes. As far as the narrow power band for the street discussion goes, how many of you who complain about turbo lag have actually driven a car with a big laggy turbo, and say 400-500hp? I have, a few of them. I owned one at 395rwhp. Lagged til 5000rpm, full boost at 5300. It was an insanely fun car to drive. I loved putting people in the passenger seat that were running their mouths about big turbo lag and this and that... and then watching them squirm to grab ahold of the door handle, holy crap handle, seat, whatever they could get their hands on... then they start laughing hysterically and uncontrollably. They get out of the car with a bewildered look on their face... and they never complain about turbo lag again. I drove two different RX7's with very big turbos on them. They lagged til about 5500-6000rpm, then took off like rockets. The first one I drove is what changed my opinion about turbo lag. I didn't care after that... it was enough proof to me that the car can have a narrow power band and still be insanely fast and fun to drive. Handling turbo lag is all in the driver. Once you learn how to cope with it, you don't even care that its there. For me, it gave me better gas mileage on the street, because I wouldn't drive around boosting everywhere I went. Once I spooled the turbo, I had to make sure I had no traffic in front of me, or I'd be all the way up someone's rear before I knew it! Sure, my power band was only 2000rpm or a little bigger... but I could drive my car dead on within this power band. Need transient response? Downshift, or go get a V8. Every turbo car lags when rolling in a high gear down the street. Once you know the power band, you deal with it by putting the car within that band. Not to mention, my car G-tech'ed several low 11 second 1/4's on completely stock internals, cams and all.

All those Nissans mentioned have fatter a Pillars than the older Z's... If this Mustang thing worked for him, that sounds like the best option.

I don't like that idea. You will be running uneven pressure from side to side. The turbine side of the motor would be performing more work, and probably seeing higher exhaust temps and back pressure than the open side. How about running two small wastegates... maybe putting them on the front of each manifold? Many cars like GT-R's use dual wastegates. You can use smaller ones, because you're only running it off 4 cylinders. I'd just think its best to keep things balanced... and wastegating one side doesn't sound good to me. The internal turbulance in the manifold can make you lose 50-100hp if your manifold is bad enough. For example, from a log style to a perfect equal length manifold on an SR20DET we just saw a 60hp increase with all other things remaining the same. Thats a 2.0liter with a turbulent manifold design... your results could differ. But 60hp is a lot to forget about in my book.

http://www.photobucket.com

For clarity's sake, here's a picture of an OEM SR sleeve cross section. There's a magnet stuck to the bottom of it. It's not a lot of steel, but its in there.

Say what you want about displacement, the fact is, the fastest S-chassis cars are SR20DET powered. I go where the power is.. and the SR is making it. If you're building to 400hp, the amount of work required to make the KA take it is pretty intense. Or, you could just do it with a stock SR20DET. (like I did)

Too common? Every 240sx comes with a KA from the factory

Bullet? Almost like you have no muffler at all. You should use an Ultraflo. I used the Ultraflow Round with an inline Bullet muffler from Buddy Club and it sounded awesome. I'm trying to figure out which size Ultraflo will fit my Z properly. You could do the same and run a bullet muffler a ways up the line (close to the downpipe) just keep the outer diameter small on it. A bullet by itself is VERY loud on an SR20DET.. and it sounds like a tractor on crack.

Thought you might like this picture for when you get them. I pulled it from this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2598 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8724&highlight=Fender+mirrors It's an attachment of a drawing a little ways down the page. Not sure where to find the mirrors... I'm looking right now, and I've seen them, but I can't remember where (because I didn't want them myself)

If not, then how does rust form on the Aluminum? After referencing a very good source, they are made of steel.

Everyone I've seen had their's custom fabbed with the motor in place. I haven't found a source that makes it bolt-in like we'd all love to have. You will have to have everything else fabbed, too.. so you might as well have it all done by one shop. (intercooler piping, exhaust, driveshaft, etc..)

Yeah, the KA motor likes to make all its power down low. I haven't seen anyone pull usable high-RPM power out of one yet. If they could shift the torque band substantially, the motor would see some ridiculous peak HP numbers. How exactly do they get 350hp NA from these motors? And what are they using them for? I'm not going to call anyone on the phone to ask them... how about a website or something, anything?

350hp NA on what motor?

Yeah, my former co-worker has a completely stock Integra with a turbo kit making over 200hp at the wheels. He regularly makes people scratch their heads on the street. If you don't hear the blow off valve, you'd think he was totally stock. (not even wheels or suspension or a muffler)

Kenny, you sure have a lot of bad things to say about that motor. Here, follow some of the links here that show 500+hp KA-T's. http://www.ka-t.org Be sure to click on the names of the guys along the top as well, several of them have some pretty powerful street cars with KA24DE's in them. 543hp here: http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=67824224&Forum=UBB9&Words=ka%20record&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=6months&Main=67795629&Search=true#Post67824224 I do realize there have been a lot of botched turbo jobs on KA's in the past, but if the motor is built and tuned properly, its been proven it will hold up for a long time. Most of the ghetto KA-T's out there that keep blowing up are guys who can't afford good engine management, and don't bother with it. I, personally, am a big fan of the SR20DET (I've built many of them, my last was 395rwhp on stock internals) But, I can't listen to the stuff you're putting down. I reccomend the SR over the KA anyday, but it ain't THAT bad.

Wait wait wait, you think an SR20DET is gonna sound like a coffee can ricey engine?? Have you heard on running? It's got a nice smooth sound to it, unless you run it with no mulffling at all. Please dont think its gonna sound like a freaking Honda 1.6 liter.... it doesn't. I ran a Dynomax Ultraflo on my SR20DET, and it sounded nice and deep and smooth. (for a 4 cylinder, seriously) I got a lot of compliments on the nice sound. I'm also not a fan of the ricey rock-in-coke-can Honda sound... but don't think that a turbo 2 liter will make that sound, it doesn't

I agree with everything he said