Hugh

Right click and save as. It's a DIVX AVI http://72.29.75.31/~videof6/features/hugh/hughvsadam-divx.avi His car was rough tuned by Motorworx during this race. This was a week or two before he dynoed so high. (he still beat me in the 150 meters, and I was running much shorter gears - his trap speed was a lot higher, too)

Very impressive. Goes like hell. I've never understood all the SR vs FJ references. Both engines are badass, but I've never felt the need to compare them. I think everyone is always looking for a way to dog the 'popular' engine. To compare on the level, compare the L20 and the FJ20. Those were the choices back then. However rare, I knew a guy with an old Skyline with a pretty sick FJ20 in Japan. That thing was sweet. I want to say his was a dual cam, this one is a single cam? Or they just didn't put the "d" in the name until later engines?

Here's a nice Ebay find: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Complete-SR20DET-Drag-Race-Package-for-240SX-180SX-S13_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ012QQitemZ220006801835QQrdZ1 The guy's name is Adam. I used to race him over in Japan. He brought all this stuff back with him, and is now selling it. The Silvia it was in was godawful fast, and dynoed like 500rwhp or so. The system he's selling has more potential, too. It's running on SDS, so perfect for a Hybridz. Anyway, I've got video of him running if anyone wants to see. On his ebay auction, he posted a link to his webpage with dyno videos and the dyno sheet.

You can get the FSM's from my website: http://www.zeroyon.com Click on Tech, then Nissan Service Manuals Download the S15 manual for the easiest read. Torque specs are all the same, anyway.

Thats good to know! Maybe my friend was slipping it because he didn't drive it properly or something? (riding the clutch or something)

Sprung clutches can save driveline parts from breaking on launches or 1-2 shifts. I was not aware ACT makes a sprung 6 puck? I've owned a 6 puck unpsrung and liked it. It was harsh to learn, but it never slipped from putting 350rwhp through it and running Nitto 555R drag radials. (in my old 180sx) I stepped up to an OS Giken twin-plate clutch because I got a good deal on it. It feels like the ACT, but it has a lot more tolerance for abuse. I had a friend who put in the organic sprung ACT in his 180sx with only 250rwhp. It slipped when he drag raced, but it was an excellent daily driver clutch. I drove it a few times and it was a very easy-going clutch to handle. If you're gonna keep the motor pretty stock (stock turbo and such) then the organic could be fine. I'm looking for a sprung alternative right now... something that won't blow shafts out.

http://www.photobucket.com is an excellent place to upload photos to.

My good friend is hooking up a group buy with Darton, they're talking about sleeving SR20DET blocks for only $720. This is Darton sleeves, installed by Darton themselves. They can do 86-90mm bore. (86mm is stock) The guy who is hooking this up is a trusted individual, and a close friend of mine. (you won't get screwed by anyone) To get onboard, click on this link: http://www.zeroyon.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8710 It would be best for SoCal guys who can hand deliver to North County San Diego, eliminating any shipping costs. I suppose you could also bring it to me in Orange County if SD doesn't work for you. Anyway, if you're not interested, don't worry about it. If you are, let us know. Just trying to take care of people.

The Nissan GA16 from the Sentras should be a decent donor for a 1.6 liter EFI system... but that car doesn't make even 100hp, I don't think. I like your concept, though, swapping in an OEM EFI system. The intake manifold in any case will need to be modified, I think. Unless you're going to run some sort of throttle body fuel injection (yuck) Just using the stock intake maniifold, mounting throttle bodies to it, and tapping injectors into the runners might be an option. A standalone would really be great for this setup, but you might get it to run on stock parts. If you get anything stock, be sure to go pre-1996 to avoid OBDII, it will just complicate things further for you.

Honestly, the shorty runner manifold isn't necessary unless you're looking at big power. You're going for budget with the stock ECU and stuff, so just use the stock manifold. I made over 400hp through the stock manifold, throttle body, head, cams, and actually the entire engine. (with a T04S turbo kit on it) Yes, there were some top-end flow problems, but until you pass 300hp or so, you won't even notice the difference. 350hp is comfortable on a stock setup. On my dyno sheet, you could see power falling off over 7000rpm, but I dynoed 395rwhp before it fell off. (and the car Gteched low 11's all day) So save your money for now, put it into the swap. You may need it.

Damn thats a lot of power! Any details on what the nitrous is doing in this mix? Is it there for power or spoolup?

That story about it being a 4 cylinder version of the RB.... ehhh... Its a lot of smoke being blown by CA owners to justify their engine choice. The SR is more powerful than the CA with the same mods, hands down. I wouldn't run an old CA without a complete rebuild, personally. I've known far to many people with problematic CA's just from wear and tear. (they're all like 16-17yrs old now) If you ran it on a standalone, eliminating the stock electronics, then you'd be cutting out a lot of the trouble. Just to give you an idea, my old SR powered 180sx VS CA powered 180sx's could beat them when they had turbo kits and engine builds, my car was stock with a boost controller, intercooler, and other light mods. The power band on the SR is pretty fat by comparison, and the CA lags a lot. I'm not bashing the CA, just trying to give you the opinion of someone who has driven and worked and raced many of these motors. (SR and CA)

Yeah, the oil pickup is right in the front area of the oil pan, pretty much. The oil pump is there in the front cover. TODA has built a dry sump SR20 before, but don't know if they sell the parts off the shelf. It might have been a racing engine only. Going to a rear sump... I wouldn't even know where to begin.

Wow, swapping in a KA24DET now will not get you on your way to another engine any faster. You'd be better off just going for the gusto on that one. You will spend so much money on the engine swap and getting everything running, and then add what it costs to turbo the KA and the reality of possibly blowing a naturally aspirated motor with a turbo kit and rebuild/replacement costs... Sorry for the run-ons, but what I'm trying to say is this: Pick a project and stick with it. Unless you have unlimited funds, do what you want right the first time.

Thats the main reason why its faster. Now the 4WD gets me off the line, for sure. Traction is nonexistent in my car currently.

Just the greddy intake manifold, the Q45 throttle body, and the Tec3 engine management with full ignition and 850cc injectors. (oh, and the intercooler helps, too) I can hit 15psi before 3000rpm now. It's pretty darn quick. And yep, still sure its faster than the EVO I was referring to.

THis spooling issue is killing me... Have you tried running with the vacuum line off the wastegate, so it stays shut? What does it do then? Does it just rocket right up to insane boost levels? Or does it still pause? Please try this and let me know what happens. Just remember to let off the gas when the boost hits crazy levels. (it will happen very quickly)

The bell housing for the KA is a lot different. The SR20DET tranny also has a beefier output shaft (very important, I've found - thats the first tranny part I broke last time around)

Would be cool. 600hp? What sort of cheap tricks are we talking about? Stock turbo'ed?

Yup, that car made over 100 passes, too. (without a rebuild) Some people never knew that SR powered cars have been running sub-10 seconds for years. There are a bunch of them in Japan in the nines.

Horishima, saw your car at Vildini yesterday, looks nice. The body on that thing is straight as an arrow. (wish I could say that about my car)

They are worth the drive, absolutely. Great guys down there. Putting an extra hour on the road is better than your car sitting for 3 months at some local incompetent shop. You can't beat experience and a great work record.

Me too. Relocating the alternator looks like the best, but more difficult option.

Refer to the link to FA above, there's some pics posted of one solution.

THe electronic boost controller has a duty cycle, using PWM as mentioned above, which opens and closes the valve very quickly. Going from manual to electronic makes the turbo spool faster, spike less, and hold on to boost in high RPM longer. A great EBC like the AVC-R will allow you to adjust duty cycle per RPM, and it even self-learns to fine tune the duty cycle for you. (if you so desire) I've found MBC's lead to slow spool, spikes, and either rising or falling boost in the high RPM. I like your idea. It sounds cool to me. It would be nice to activate the MBC at a lower boost than its needed to avoid the spike. Activate the MBC at 10psi, and have it regulate 12psi... or something like that. This should keep it from spiking crazy like. Personally, I think you should build this thing if you have the parts to do it. It will be a fun Mr. Wizard style project, and makes for great conversation. If its gonna cost you much money out-of-pocket, then forget that. Just save some pennies for a decent EBC. I've had my AVC-R for 6 years now, and I've changed everything else on the car, including the car... but the AVC-R is still in there and working great.