Hugh

I was talking to guy in the Pennysaver about a Z before I found mine. He was describing the car to me, and eveything sounded ok.... then I asked, why so cheap? He said, oh yeah... its got a huge sunroof with the slide back vinyl in it that someone installed like 20 years ago or more. I thanked him for telling me that over the phone, and politely declined coming to see the car.

Yep, you can pop the C-clip off the actuator and it will leave the internal wastegate open all the time. That would result in probably zero boost. I guess you could leave the spring out of the external wastegate, so long as you're recirculating it back into the exhaust. If its open... wow, that would be loud to drive

Just so you know, removing the wastegate vacuum line will cause the wastegate to stay shut all the time. (removes the boost reference from the wastegate, it can't tell you're boosting at all) Thats how I tested my actuator yesterday, and hit 20psi before I knew it.

Without modifying anything physically, turning the boost below the wastegate spring is not an option. How would you go about bypassing the wastegate? I can't see disabling my turbo for any reason. I'd always like the boost to be there when I want it.

I've got a Q45 throttle body on my engine, and its TPS is not compatible with any other typical ones I've looked at. My SR TPS sure doesn't fit it, nor will a KA . I doubt the CA would work, either. Someone once told me you can use the RB20 TPS on it, but I have no confirmation of that info.. The Q45 throttle body is great because it opens progressively. Therefore when you apply light throttle, it doesn't fly open and send a huge gulp of air at the motor. However, I'm finding it difficult to adjust the TPS acceleration enrichments just right on my Tec3 to compensate for this huge TB. If you do get your hands on a Q45 TPS, be forewarned: The main TPS connector is the kick-down switch. The actual TPS connector is found on the little pigtail that hangs off of it.

Qualcomm Racelegal - San Diego, CA

I don't know man... I just saw blinking lights and heard beeping and let off the gas.

The R32 GTS-T Type M came with a 4.36 final gear. 4.4 is perfect for an RB20. It will be just like stock. (minus 1000 pounds)

Oh yeah, I just got my boost controller working yesterday, now I can run this little stock turbo as high as it will go. I think 20psi will blow it up with the quickness, though... so I backed it down to 15psi. In the video, I was only doing 10psi. It's like night & day.

I was actually running a 57mm T04S over there, but bought a T3/T67, Manifold, and Wastegate from Full-Race. I never put them on the car, as I had to leave soon after receiving them. I was making 400+ with the T04S anyway, so it was no slouch. When I got back to the states, I had a long wait on my parts, and along the way I decided to sell the turbo, but kept the manifold and wastegate. I am looking at the GT3567R as an option now. It's comparable to the T3/T67, but ball bearing so it will spool a little quicker and I will probably get a broader power band out of it. That turbo can do 600hp no problem. Now I need the chassis to handle that power. Hell, this thing won't take 400hp before rusty metal starts popping off left and right. Heh heh heh

Hopefully they can fix it well. The last time I saw something like that happen, the guy lost most of the stuff that came off. (slipped then end off his thumb off like a thimble with a motorcycle chain)

I posted your question on FA, and got a response here: http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=68101287&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

I just had a question about this: "120lph HI-FLOW FUEL PUMP (RATED FOR 500hp)" Is it? I know the 180sx came with somewhere between 130-140lph fuel pump, and it's good enough for ~250hp. The Walbro 255lph is rated to like 550hp by Walbro, but is barely good enough for that. (most guys who go over 500hp upgrade to double or something bigger)

Me? I was talking about the SR. (replying to the comment above) I totally understand your question, and I'm trying to get an answer for you.

The SR uses the same belt to drive the alternator and water pump. On the KA... hmm... never done that before. I would think the tensioner would be nice to have, though. Especially on the water pump, as its a pretty important belt.

I could take those EVO's in the 1/4 right now, for the mostpart. The short track accentuates the long gears the wrong way. Anyway, this car is in the baby stages of a big buildup. I'm working on a huge turbo setup.

Ahh, maybe its different on your Z. I don't know much about the 80's cars. (70's&90's a lot moreso)

The Tec3 can do all that, and comes with full ignition, eliminating the stock ignition system altogether. (which can sometimes be costly and problematic to maintain) Also removing the Cam Angle Sensor, and setting timing mechanically to a permanent point on the crank. I gotta say, though, after playing with the AEM and reading the manuals, I'm damn impressed with what it can do. It's the most tunable of any computer I've played with. However, I'd say it might be the most complicated at the same time. (as far as high end standalone systems go) One thing you can do with the AEM over the Tec3 is run full sequential injection as opposed to phased sequential. This should make it gain a couple of horsepower and possibly get better gas mileage due to better management of injectors. (not that phased sequential doesn't work really well, though) The Tec3 can also run full sequential on a 4 cylinder, but needs to be run with a cam angle sensor as well as the crank angle sensor, or the timing all needs to be read from the cam angle sensor location with an unusually designed magnetic trigger wheel setup. (using a mini wheel and sensor, but it would be right up front on the motor at the top... and probably protrude above the valve cover.)

I'll keep you in mind.

Yeah, I realize its not that fast. It's a load quicker than it did with the L28 in it, though (over 10 seconds) This was baseline, anyway. We just got the car running a couple weeks ago. The turbo kit will come after some rear end work. (have mani & wastegate, need another turbo) This damn 3.36 open diff ain't helping at all.

You should try http://www.youtube.com or http://www.streetfire.net to upload your videos to. The quality on those is much better. Nice to see the car up and running. The camera mount works great.

On an automatic TPS, the pigtail is typically the kickdown for the auto tranny. The kickdown is an on/off switch. It tells the transmission to shift down a gear when you go near full throttle. (for passing or quick acceleration) TPS is used by just about every EFI engine, regardless of transmission type, and is a potentiometer (or reostat) which varies in resistance according to throttle position. The ECU knows how to compensate for throttle changes by how the TPS signal changes. (ie: you punch the gas, and the computer knows to dump a little extra fuel to compensate for the surge of air thats coming) The manual TPS should work as a potentiometer, not a switch.

I wouldn't call the compressor outlet the "exhaust" but thats just my opinion. Compound on a Supra? I don't think so. The sequential setup was controlled on the turbine side, just like the RX7. You have to realize what that turbo setup is doing. You putting compressed air into a turbo, and compressing it further. The effect is pretty ridiculous for a typical engine. You gonna boost 40 psi or something? Also, if you must run a little turbo to spool a big one, but 100% of the air flow is coming out of the first compressor and into the second... then you're limited to the maximum flow capability of the first compressor to send air to the motor. Either that turbo will be a bottleneck, or get overworked and die quickly if its really small.

Wow, yeah. That would take care of it. Thanks for the link!

The other side is not used in a typical application. I've heard different versions of what its for, but never read a manual that explained it clearly.