Hugh

If you want to see the sort of rallying we do out here, watch this video I made: http://72.29.75.31/%7evideof6/zeroyonvideos/zeroyon-06feb-DirtDay3.mpg (you should right click and save as)

Cool stuff, man. Keep up the good work. I thought about rallying my car for a while.. then quickly changed my mind back to just drag racing. I plan to own a WRX one of these days... and will rally that.

Where can I go to weigh my car? I found a CAT truck scale the other day thats not too far from here... and I wanted to stop in and ask but I was worried I'd look like an idiot. Can I go to that sort of scale?

WHOA! Now thats what I like to see: That would get me started off right.

I've always been told not to fill holes with bondo, only to use a surface layer. You may have to do this again in a couple years, but it should look fine for a while.

Well they say they used thinner gauge on the Z than they did on other cars. I realize thats a nice cover for saving money.. but I wonder how much weight it actually saved.

I think I can help you out here, what timing map are you running? Can you send me or post a copy of your timing and fuel maps? Is the PowerFC a virgin, or has it been tuned for another engine? (did a shop modify the base map previously) Just for a little credibility... I've tuned an SR20DET to 363rwhp with a PowerFC for a friend.

One Word: TOYOTA Fun to drive? Nope. Reliable? Yup. Something a little fun to drive and reliable? 90's Honda. Thats the ticket. If I need a daily driver aside from the Z, I will most likely get another Civic. It was a fun little car and never broke.

I have the TPS figured out now. It helps out a lot with all situations when you push the throttle. Heh heh I also installed my Apexi AVC-R, turned the boost up to 12psi or so... it varies because the actuator seems to be bad, I think... combined with all this breathability I have it causes the little turbo to work overtime to fill. The boost controller is at max, but boost still won't even hit 15psi at the intake manifold. My other boost gauge reads off the hot pipe directly in front of the turbo, and its seeing somewhere close to 15 pounds now... but pressure loss across the front of the car doesn't get it all there. I knew the turbo wouldn't be enough, so I'm not disappointed. This was just a temporary setup to get the car running on the street for now. I'm not sure how much power I'm making, or just how fast the car is... but I gotta say, this thing really rips. I just got finished tuning an Evo 8 pushing 25psi on upped injectors, exhaust, DP, etc... this afternoon, and my car was definitely faster. The driver of said Evo rode with me in the Z and was shocked by how fast it went. I also let my friend with an '06 WRX drive it today. He was impressed, and said he now wants one just like mine. Heh heh heh

The video doesn't play right for me for some reason... but the sound worked. Sounds great! Maybe I can get this video to play...

Some of the guys posted some great info in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110719 There's several methods to use, you should check them all out and choose which works for you, I guess. I need to do mine as well. Oh, and shaved or not shaved... they all look great. If we all did the same thing, then it would be boring, right? Thats why we have HybridZ's for the most part, and not 100% original Z's here.

I like it.

I hate waiting for friends that do that to you. I've been through that a bunch of times.

I seriously considered making a carbon valence. That would be sweet. I think I'd have to put some bumpers on to make the transition from top to bottom, though.

E actually stands for Nissan ECCS Electronic something or other... their ECU controlled EFI system. The RB stands for "Rob a Bank"

If you're just looking for some words of encouragement, I'll give them to you... WOW, That looks great! Nice work, especially for a beginner. You made that look like a pro did it. You gonna paint the whole car?

I'm trying to understand "tapered to the back of the motor" Is the shroud part of the fan? Can you run the fan without the shroud? I would just run a slimmer fan than trying to shave the pulley.. to keep it simple.

".63 A/R COLD .58 5 BOLT STANDARD HOT SIDE 3"INLET DIAMENTER 2"OUTLET .57 COMPRESSOR WHEEL TRIM .60 A/R COMPRESSOR .63 A/R TURBINE 57 TRIM" Sounds like the guy is having trouble making up his mind just what the specs are on this turbo. It looks CHEAP to me. I'd rather spend $200 for a Garrett. I won't buy anything that isn't Garrett or AIResearch or HKS (Garrett), actually. Reminds me of the "SSAutoChrome" turbos... the ones that the compressor housing falls off and is apparently GLUED on. With that outlet, you still have to buy the bolt up flapper housing, too.

I understand what you're saying. I tried that with the guy who makes the rear valence part for MSA. He said the die used to stamp it out was super expensive, and couldn't be done any differently. Tabco doesn't have that part listed at all. Also, that piece for the rear valence is not bent when they ship it... you have to bend it to conform with the body. This makes me think just cutting a piece of flat sheet to fit the space would save time/money

Pick up lines? Hey baby... whats your sign? Heh heh Hard line would be nice, as it would put it in place and it would stay put. Brass fittings are fine for passing fuel through the inside of them, I don't see any reason why you couldn't put fuel on the outside of them.

Well, the 240z was designed with thin gauge metal supposedly to reduce weight. Thats part of the reason why they rust out more than most cars.

No, not joking. right click, save as and watch this video: You'll see plenty of that. http://72.29.75.31/%7Evideof6/zeroyonvideos/zeroyon-Aug03-HKS-divx.avi Yes, most of us used line locks or the partial brake method. Line lock preferrably.

There's no way to move the radiator forward a little? How thick is this fan you're putting on?

Here's what I found on Tabco's site: Thats for the corner... only goes below the bumper indent it looks like. That won't work on my damage... I need above that. I don't see anything else that I could use on their page here: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm I can get the rear section right from MSA, but thats expensive, flat, and would require extensive modification to remove the holes and indents anyway (kinda asinine, really)